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02-13-2007, 10:10 PM
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#1
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Exhaust porting HELP
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fort St. John BC Canada
My Ride: 85 Daytona TurboZ
Engine: 2.2L T2 Modded
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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So i have my engine apart to do my T2 conversion and i want to do some port work to the head and exhaust manifold.
anyone done porting and can give some advice?
85 2.2l with the bathtub head. 287
I want to do some minor porting while its all apart.
HELP? TIPS?
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02-13-2007, 10:59 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nebraska
My Ride: '87 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2l TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I have on the exhaust manifold, personally I liked a dremel and a few griding stones. Just build up some metal(by welding) on the outside of the runner where that nub pokes into the runner and start porting away, just do some cleanup, some opening up, and in general smooth out what ever looks like it could impede flow. As far as the head, dunno, never done it.
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02-14-2007, 01:21 AM
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#3
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Authorized TD Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Salina, KS
My Ride: 91 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.686
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Bigger is better in the manifold and get rid of bumps and sharp turn. The head, stay away from the floor on the exhaust
__________________
Wallace
91 Spirit R/T
11.686@120.89 mph
www.Lonewolfperformance.com Proven TIII cams that power SMPs Charger to 8.04 & 180 mph, custom headers, thermal and friction coating, cylinder head and manifold porting, custom aluminum intakes (8V,16V & hybrid), fuel rails.
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02-14-2007, 02:49 AM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fort St. John BC Canada
My Ride: 85 Daytona TurboZ
Engine: 2.2L T2 Modded
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thanks Ill post pics when im done.
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02-14-2007, 05:34 AM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon
My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800
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You don't need to do any welding. Don't go to deep. I cut a window into one of mine. That really bummed me out. Imagine you are a gas molecule trying to run through the thing. Do you have to jump over a bump? Hurdle casting flash? Change directions? Well, you're not a gas molecule, and you've got a die grinder to doze over all those things  Thats the way I think about it anyways.
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02-14-2007, 09:37 AM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houghton MI 60" sno so far
My Ride: OMNI/ShelDak/TSi/SL
Engine: 2.2 'GLHS style' TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.800
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^ good words by tkelly
I think spending couple hours now while you have this apart is a great idea; heres what i did: first, laid a gasket over the ports on the head and then spray painted so I could see where the gasket was larger than the port
(note, my first generic gasket SUCKED! port shapes varied, there was shift; I bought a Fel-Pro intake/exh gasket and used that, this pic is of the sucky gasket) ; see pic
here I am mostly done with the exhaust ports; note I did not lower the floor as has been warned about by many ; similarly you can see the floor of the intake is WAY larger than the casting so I did not extennd the port that way either;
I blended about 3/4" into the ports.. I know there is a LOT more that could/should be done here, but I was looking for a quick effective job, and I am happy with my results.
I had a ported exh manifold which I matched the port shape to; get a ported exh mani !! I also did a little clean up on the intake mani ports where the meet the head but nothing major; I know I could/should have spent some more time on that too but...
I also smoothed rough corners in my combustion chamber and added PowerGroovz (altho I had a swirl and I don't know where they would go in a G head)
PS electric die grinder 1/4" collet 1cent plus 11.99 S&H from eBay makes this process go WAY FASTER than using a Dremel or air die grinder
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02-14-2007, 10:30 AM
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#7
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Resident piston cracker
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CT
My Ride: 92gtc vert
Engine: 2.5 8v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.800
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You can do a bit work in the bowl area, there are some flashing left from the machining for the valve guides that need your loving too. I went razy with it a few years back, I mostly forgot what I did, I don't know the end results but will have some 1/4 mile times this year.
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02-14-2007, 11:36 AM
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#8
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: St. Louis
My Ride: 85 GTS, 3 87 GTS, 89
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I used the $14.95 1/8" collet mini air grinder from Harbor Freight with a Dremel gray stone on the manifolds and the steel bits for the head. It reaches as far as you want to go into the head and manifolds. I removed the exhaust bumps with no problems. I think in casting the exhaust manifolds, Mopar went with the bumps to have enough material for the casting process. I didn't have any problems grinding them out.
I also had to grind out the exhaust manifold for an egt gauge. If you drill the hole in the ideal location (FWD way) you have to make room inside for the probe tip. It actually samples #4 AND #3 when done this way.
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02-14-2007, 01:41 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fort St. John BC Canada
My Ride: 85 Daytona TurboZ
Engine: 2.2L T2 Modded
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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This is all great help guys thank you.
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02-16-2007, 03:16 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: S. Central PA
My Ride: '91 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Look here:
pictures of port jobs
Looneytuner, how's the TC coming along?
Mike
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02-16-2007, 03:37 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon
My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800
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oh yeah, carbide cutters, MANDITORY! Well, use the stones first, then after you dig out the Al2O3 from your teeth and eyes, you'll think "maybe I should try the carbide bits..." Then you'll try them and you'll never ever go back. I got a set of 5 bits on ebay for $15 shipped, I've done 3 cast iron manifolds, 2 cast iron heads, 2 aluminum heads, I've cut out flanges with them, gone through two harbor frieght die grinders, and now I'm working on killing the air compressor so I can get a new one. I've chipped 1/2 a tooth off of my high speed x-mas tree style bit, thats all the worse that has happened to them. I can not say enough about carbide bits
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02-18-2007, 02:43 PM
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#12
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NORCAL
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
My Ride: 86DodgeLancerPacific
Engine: T2'd 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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+1 on the carbid tips....makes everything go way faster
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02-18-2007, 02:47 PM
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#13
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NORCAL
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
My Ride: 86DodgeLancerPacific
Engine: T2'd 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by looneytuner
I used the $14.95 1/8" collet mini air grinder from Harbor Freight with a Dremel gray stone on the manifolds and the steel bits for the head. It reaches as far as you want to go into the head and manifolds. I removed the exhaust bumps with no problems. I think in casting the exhaust manifolds, Mopar went with the bumps to have enough material for the casting process. I didn't have any problems grinding them out.
I also had to grind out the exhaust manifold for an egt gauge. If you drill the hole in the ideal location (FWD way) you have to make room inside for the probe tip. It actually samples #4 AND #3 when done this way.
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Just on the subject since i'm porting mine as well...Did or can you fully grind away the humps from the studs for the turbo on the inside of the exhaust mani on 3 and 4?
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02-20-2007, 02:52 AM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fort St. John BC Canada
My Ride: 85 Daytona TurboZ
Engine: 2.2L T2 Modded
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I have not yet but was wondering the same thing 86trbolancer.
If anyone could answer this question its a 2 for 1!
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02-20-2007, 10:57 AM
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#15
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NORCAL
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
My Ride: 86DodgeLancerPacific
Engine: T2'd 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Well i just went ahead and did it and is looks good. Didn't even contact the bottom of the studs. Now i'm going to use a sand blaster with 12 grit to really smooth it out.
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