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Engine - Exhaust Topics about the exhaust system discussed here.

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Old 02-13-2007, 10:10 PM   #1
Lightbulb Exhaust porting HELP  
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So i have my engine apart to do my T2 conversion and i want to do some port work to the head and exhaust manifold.

anyone done porting and can give some advice?

85 2.2l with the bathtub head. 287

I want to do some minor porting while its all apart.

HELP? TIPS?
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:59 PM   #2
 
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I have on the exhaust manifold, personally I liked a dremel and a few griding stones. Just build up some metal(by welding) on the outside of the runner where that nub pokes into the runner and start porting away, just do some cleanup, some opening up, and in general smooth out what ever looks like it could impede flow. As far as the head, dunno, never done it.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:21 AM   #3
 
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Bigger is better in the manifold and get rid of bumps and sharp turn. The head, stay away from the floor on the exhaust
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:49 AM   #4
 
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Thanks Ill post pics when im done.
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:34 AM   #5
 
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You don't need to do any welding. Don't go to deep. I cut a window into one of mine. That really bummed me out. Imagine you are a gas molecule trying to run through the thing. Do you have to jump over a bump? Hurdle casting flash? Change directions? Well, you're not a gas molecule, and you've got a die grinder to doze over all those things Thats the way I think about it anyways.
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Old 02-14-2007, 09:37 AM   #6
 
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^ good words by tkelly

I think spending couple hours now while you have this apart is a great idea; heres what i did: first, laid a gasket over the ports on the head and then spray painted so I could see where the gasket was larger than the port

(note, my first generic gasket SUCKED! port shapes varied, there was shift; I bought a Fel-Pro intake/exh gasket and used that, this pic is of the sucky gasket) ; see pic



here I am mostly done with the exhaust ports; note I did not lower the floor as has been warned about by many ; similarly you can see the floor of the intake is WAY larger than the casting so I did not extennd the port that way either;

I blended about 3/4" into the ports.. I know there is a LOT more that could/should be done here, but I was looking for a quick effective job, and I am happy with my results.

I had a ported exh manifold which I matched the port shape to; get a ported exh mani !! I also did a little clean up on the intake mani ports where the meet the head but nothing major; I know I could/should have spent some more time on that too but...

I also smoothed rough corners in my combustion chamber and added PowerGroovz (altho I had a swirl and I don't know where they would go in a G head)

PS electric die grinder 1/4" collet 1cent plus 11.99 S&H from eBay makes this process go WAY FASTER than using a Dremel or air die grinder
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:30 AM   #7
 
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You can do a bit work in the bowl area, there are some flashing left from the machining for the valve guides that need your loving too. I went razy with it a few years back, I mostly forgot what I did, I don't know the end results but will have some 1/4 mile times this year.
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:36 AM   #8
 
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I used the $14.95 1/8" collet mini air grinder from Harbor Freight with a Dremel gray stone on the manifolds and the steel bits for the head. It reaches as far as you want to go into the head and manifolds. I removed the exhaust bumps with no problems. I think in casting the exhaust manifolds, Mopar went with the bumps to have enough material for the casting process. I didn't have any problems grinding them out.
I also had to grind out the exhaust manifold for an egt gauge. If you drill the hole in the ideal location (FWD way) you have to make room inside for the probe tip. It actually samples #4 AND #3 when done this way.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:41 PM   #9
 
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This is all great help guys thank you.
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Old 02-16-2007, 03:16 PM   #10
 
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Look here:
pictures of port jobs

Looneytuner, how's the TC coming along?

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Old 02-16-2007, 03:37 PM   #11
 
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oh yeah, carbide cutters, MANDITORY! Well, use the stones first, then after you dig out the Al2O3 from your teeth and eyes, you'll think "maybe I should try the carbide bits..." Then you'll try them and you'll never ever go back. I got a set of 5 bits on ebay for $15 shipped, I've done 3 cast iron manifolds, 2 cast iron heads, 2 aluminum heads, I've cut out flanges with them, gone through two harbor frieght die grinders, and now I'm working on killing the air compressor so I can get a new one. I've chipped 1/2 a tooth off of my high speed x-mas tree style bit, thats all the worse that has happened to them. I can not say enough about carbide bits
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:43 PM   #12
 
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+1 on the carbid tips....makes everything go way faster
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:47 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by looneytuner
I used the $14.95 1/8" collet mini air grinder from Harbor Freight with a Dremel gray stone on the manifolds and the steel bits for the head. It reaches as far as you want to go into the head and manifolds. I removed the exhaust bumps with no problems. I think in casting the exhaust manifolds, Mopar went with the bumps to have enough material for the casting process. I didn't have any problems grinding them out.
I also had to grind out the exhaust manifold for an egt gauge. If you drill the hole in the ideal location (FWD way) you have to make room inside for the probe tip. It actually samples #4 AND #3 when done this way.
Just on the subject since i'm porting mine as well...Did or can you fully grind away the humps from the studs for the turbo on the inside of the exhaust mani on 3 and 4?
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:52 AM   #14
 
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I have not yet but was wondering the same thing 86trbolancer.

If anyone could answer this question its a 2 for 1!
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:57 AM   #15
 
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Well i just went ahead and did it and is looks good. Didn't even contact the bottom of the studs. Now i'm going to use a sand blaster with 12 grit to really smooth it out.
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