2.5-3" adapter doughut

[crazymadbastard]

You might be able to use a 3 to 2.5 exhaust adapter if you have the TU DP. The TU Dp has a removeable part that enters the flanged part and the donut seals around that. I am not sure if other downpipes have that feature.

[erik]

I have a 2.25 swing valve mated to a 3 inch custom made mandrel bent exhaust and the exhaust shop pulled a donut off the shelf that fit the opening of the swing valve and fit over the 3 inch pipe so he simply welded a ring around the downpipe for the donut to sit on ,works great but unfortunately I dont know what the donut came from but its definetly a common one.I didnt pay much for all this as my friend owns the shop so it might not be feasible for everyone but anythings possible

[Reaper1]

Hmmm...I might have to look into that.

Here're my goals...I don't want to have to pull the head or turbo. I don't really want to cut up this DP since it is a true 3". I want to spend as little money to do this as possible. Not "cheap", but inexpensive.

I've thought about swapping to a 2.5" SV. I have a good exhaust housing that has all of the SV bolts out of it already. I just have to get it off the bad turbo it's mated to. The turbo on my car is perfect. I don't really want to go through the hassle of pulling it just for an exhaust upgrade. I understand the performance aspect of this, but I don't ever really expect this car to go much faster than low 14's...if that. I'm not modding the piss out of it, just doing things here and there that I know work and compliment each other. This is my DD, so it has to stay reliable and comfortable. I'm also going to put a cat back on it as well as a better muffler. The only real reason I'm even going with 3" is because I like the way it sounds over 2.5"...it has a deeper note to it(not to mention this exhaust is readily available). I have no clue as to whether this exhaust is TU or FWD or JRB. I jsut know that it's 3" and that I want to use it!

[moparzrule]

Leave the stock downpipe, cut it off right before the CAT. It will be 2.5'' right there. Go 3'' from there back.
If your goal is low 14's, no need to change the stock downpipe. Trust me it will save you a huge headache, those flange bolts are completely seized I garauntee you that.

[moparzrule]

If you can't have one made at a shop, cindy sells them-
FWDPerformance.com

[Reaper1]

OK, not to sound like a moron, but what exactly were you reffering to on Cindy's site? I know what she's got...but what product were you steering me towards?

[moparzrule]

Exhaust section, the 2.5-3'' adapter.

[Reaper1]

ah..ok...knew it was there...thanks..

[tkelly27]

You can go to napa and get a 2.5" to 3" "reducer" as well. Just, kinda, flip it around, ya know?

PB blaster and a breaker bar can normally get those nuts off. That is to say, I've never encountered any I could not get off. Make sure you've got some new ones though.

[moparzrule]

Maybe a breaked bar with a very long extension because you're not fitting a breaker bar in there! If that would work they would just snap. I've had them strip on me twice, and the other time it did snap. Either way, they name came off and twice I ended up getting out the cut-off wheel which is a HUGE PITA getting it up in there with an air hose attached and getting it at the right angle so you don't cut into your swingvalve too much.

[Reaper1]

If you're talking about the spring clamp bolts...I either get them loose or they break! There's no in between! I use copious amounts of PB Blaster and I actually get at them from behind the K-frame with a LONG extension...it works pretty well...