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05-15-2007, 03:30 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
My Ride: 1987 Daytona ShelbyZ
Engine: 2.2L Turbo T-II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I am running a Forward Motion ported manifold I think there all about the same.
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05-15-2007, 04:24 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL
My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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I have one of MPGMike's ported exhaust manifolds. The ONLY difference in what I got and what may be available (and I'm not 100% on this) is that mine is a custom.
I mean I told Mike that I didn't want 300HP but I did want around 200HP. The other thing that was important is my desire to increase economy. There IS a difference in porting when it comes to power and economy. The compromise is in the porting.
If you want to see the process of this porting job check out this link where Mike has published an article on my manifold.
Holler: Porting A Turbo Exhaust Manifold
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05-15-2007, 10:13 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL
My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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IMHO 3" is over kill. I plan to use a 2.5" system. If you checked the link there are links to the turbo rebuild he did for my car. The stock swing valve was opened up to about 2.5". This was perfect because of the plan for this engine. Since the actual outlet size is VERY much smaller than 3" and since the swing valve is shaped more or less like a horn, the opening at the pipe should be somewhat larger then the largest opening of the swing valve.
Check out that link and then click on the turbo link. In there he talks about the 'porting' of the swing valve and the wastegate opening as well as why he felt these were important.
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05-15-2007, 10:21 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon
My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800
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No. 3" exhaust is a proven power maker over a 2.5" one, ported or not. Even if you're not after more power than a 3" will handle, it will spool up quicker.
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05-15-2007, 10:50 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL
My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by tkelly27
No. 3" exhaust is a proven power maker over a 2.5" one, ported or not. Even if you're not after more power than a 3" will handle, it will spool up quicker.
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Yes but to what extent. The 2.5" will make power up to 250HP or so just like the 3" will. It sounds like with the mods he's doing he's not talking about trying to make this a killer power maker. After all he is using the '86 internals unless I missed a post. I don't think that the '86 internals would handle much more than 250 or so anyway so why bother with the larger pipe? The cost of the 3" swing valve just to be able to install 3" pipes would not necessarily be a good use of funds IMHO. But by simply opening the stock swing valve and using a 2.5" pipe will handle what this build will throw at it.
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05-15-2007, 11:22 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon
My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800
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Well he's also asking about ported heads and custom intake manifolds, so he could very well be exceeding the limit of non-CB internals. Even if he's not, all the 3" setups I've heard sound better, there is a very noticeable deacrease in spool up time, and should he ever upgrade his internals and turbo, he'll be limited by his exhaust.
To go to 2.5" he's got to get a complete exhaust system, even if he ports the stock swing valve. Wasn't the 3" worth 15hp over the stocker? There were dyno charts, I forgot where they are.
*edit*
turbos
they claim 5hp over the 2.5" and more with the 2.25".
2.5' is a cheap and capeable alternative, but if you're you're not on a budget, go for the 3". There is also the middle of the road, 2.5" down pipe that bolts to the stock piece and then a 3" exhaust system. That's what I did with my van, wish I had had the $$ to go full 3" though
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06-04-2008, 04:29 PM
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#13
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Re: TU or FWD ported exhaust manifold?
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Littlefun, Co
My Ride: 86 GLH-T/92 Typhoon
Engine: 2.2L/4.3L AWD turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.738
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Dead thread, I know, but does anyone have a link to porting the SV?
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06-13-2008, 01:35 AM
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#14
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Re: TU or FWD ported exhaust manifold?
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boosting change
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Spokane WA
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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porting the SV is pointless. The gain is the volume, which doesn't change by any real %. HP is not real effected and unless you have a larger turbo your going to spool a stock 89 type Garret quikly without the 3" SV with a 3" DP.
Porting the exhaust manifold is a no brainer, match it to the turbine, the head gasket and open the hole between the turning and the #3 port. Then polish with sand paper roles, pretty easy. I like to go farther by sanding them at the head to flatten them, they get warped and don't seal as well. Then I like the 2,000 + degree ceramic to protect and reduce the heat on the outside.
__________________
Rob Walsh
84 DC Shelby Rampage
86 GLHS 76
87 GLHS 306
89 CSX 187
92 2.5 Turbo ES Shadow Convertable
70 R/T SE Challenger
93 Cummins
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06-13-2008, 01:39 AM
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#15
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Re: TU or FWD ported exhaust manifold?
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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No.
Moparzrulez does TU's manifolds.
I would say they are all pretty much the same though I know the individuals who make them would disgree and then say "blah blah flowbench numbers that I did on my own product"
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