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04-19-2008, 12:06 AM
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#16
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Attentive Forum Admin
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oklahoma
My Ride: 87 CSX & 85 GLH
Engine: 2.2TII & 2.5N/A
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I liked the JRB system on my CSX, got it from FWD-P. Had to weld the stock hanger on the new pipes but nothing bad to say about that...
__________________
-Clayton Dennis ~ Forum Admin
9,000 Post Club ~ 10,000 Coming Soon!
HAPPY 4th OF JULY!!! Enjoy the moment, and be safe
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04-19-2008, 12:40 AM
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#17
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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SHELBY 16V !!!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Southern Wisconsin
My Ride: Lots of TIII cars:-)
Engine: 16V TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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__________________
~Jackson~
TIII GURU
"Why just settle for 8valves when you can have 16 of them!"
93 Daytona Iroc R/T(sunroof car,1 of 8)
93 Daytona Iroc R/T(sunroof car,1 of 90)
92 Daytona Iroc R/T(sunroof car,1 of 60)
91 Spirit R/T
91 Spirit R/T(GFs hotrod)
91 Daytona Shelby(black on black,needs TIII)
91 Daytona Shelby(Soon to be TIII)
91 Daytona Shelby(SHELBY 16V powered)http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...ered-91-a.html
87 Daytona Shelby Z(Soon to be TIII)
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04-19-2008, 01:45 AM
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#18
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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I was under the impression that the JRB and FWD were different designs which FWD both sell.
My JRB is an original not purchased from FWD.
If the FWD is actually made on the same jig as the JRB, then I would definitly choose that kit. I havent seen any proof of that....
The JRB has a semi Downpipe which just requires putting a small pipe section from the swingvalve to the exhaust. Which means you dont need to buy a downpipe if you can finish the last foot or so of the downpipe.
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04-19-2008, 01:47 AM
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#19
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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 edited and stuff
Last edited by Ondonti : 04-19-2008 at 01:53 AM.
Reason: :P
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04-19-2008, 08:23 AM
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#20
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Spokane, Wa
My Ride: 85 GLHT, 87 ShelbyZ
Engine: 2.2 T2 and 2.5 T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.882
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FWD will sell you a JRB style d'pipe. But they've gone and figured out how to make them with the 3" donut a few years back. But the cat back stuff is all JRB. This was news from way back when JRB stopped selling exhaust.
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04-19-2008, 12:43 PM
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#21
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Vancouver, Canada
My Ride: Chrysler Daytona C/S
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I have 2.5" FWD on my Daytona and fitted nicely without any modification, only thing was we had to weld the stock hangers to the pipe but fitting was perfect.
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04-19-2008, 03:53 PM
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#22
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: scottsbluff, NE
My Ride: 85 GLH
Engine: 2.5CB
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i dont have any experience with fwd's kit, but tu's kit fit perfect in my omni, i didnt have to modify anything. i liked the fact only 1 hanger was installed, it gives you a little bit of move/tweak room, make it fit good. only place it hit at all was a screw around the shifter area, its the only place i could get it to hit.
oh, if your eliminating your cat, dont buy a test pipe, they are 30 bucks or so, i went to napa, and had to get a 29 inch piece, i got it for 10 bucks vs. 30bucks for 24 inches.
i used the remaining test pipe for the tailpipe section.
tu kits rock, i see people complaining about how theirs fit and how they didnt come with hangers, well, if you had the slightest bit of trouble installing a kit made for our cars, take it to an exhaust shop.
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04-19-2008, 07:10 PM
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#23
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mesa, AZ
My Ride: 99 Cummins
Engine: 5.9
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I just did a TU kit a little while ago on the TC.
It fit good, the only thing needed for my install was cutting the axle pipe in half and rotating it to get the right angle on it.
The trunk well in the back though on the TC seems to be more in the way of the exhaust than on the other cars (its centered, not offset) so you may want just an additional 3-4" section depending on what muffler you want and where you want the muffler at and where you cut the exhaust pipe.
Pretty straightforward though.
Really, the BIGGEST thing is all on where YOU cut the pipe at for your car.
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04-21-2008, 11:39 AM
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#24
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Boostaholic
Join Date: May 2007
Location: MA
My Ride: 88 shadow
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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well, when i do the exhaust im cutting out the spare tire well at the same time so thats one thing out of the way.. it'll make it easier too. more room and more light to see what im doing under there lol
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04-21-2008, 07:20 PM
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#25
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Calgary Alberta
My Ride: 88 daytona pacifica
Engine: 2.2, t3/t4 fmic
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I have to keep the spare tire well. I think it will be a good place to hide a no2 or alky tank 
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05-04-2008, 01:12 PM
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#26
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Boostaholic
Join Date: May 2007
Location: MA
My Ride: 88 shadow
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i found a shop near me who will bend me up some 3" pipe for $20 a piece. then im gonna buy some straight pipe from napa. i'll be able to make it cheaper than buying one plus shipping. $60 in bends and i think $20 in straight pipe through work. then just cutting and clamping/welding (i just learned how to weld so im gonna try attempting exhaust. im gonna weld a bunch of scrap pieces to get it right before i go burnign holes in my 3")
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05-04-2008, 01:22 PM
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#27
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Spokane, Wa
My Ride: 85 GLHT, 87 ShelbyZ
Engine: 2.2 T2 and 2.5 T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.882
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mandrel bent at $20 a bend? You can buy mandrel bends for that price. You'll need 5 bends. 2 around the tank, 2 up over the panhard assembly, and 1 to point you straight out the back. So $100 for bends, +20-40 for pipe. Hangars at 3-5 bucks a piece? It adds up. All in all both kits get you close, sure you'll probably have to modify them a bit but it's better than starting from scratch IMHO.
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05-04-2008, 03:03 PM
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#28
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I bought the FWDP kit for my GTC and took it to a shop to have them weld it on. They put on hangers and they said it went on without a problem. I'm sure they had to cut stuff up but it fits fine with no rubbing.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1989 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage.
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out.
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05-04-2008, 07:44 PM
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#29
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: CT
My Ride: 97 ctd/turbo lebaron
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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which down pipe would you guys recommend for a 90 lebaron 2.5 turbo its already got a new exhaust from the previous owner i just want a 3" down pipe,and im gonna do a high flow cat and thats it, no muffler, the exhaust might even dump just infront of the rear tire, but not visible tho.
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05-04-2008, 08:13 PM
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#30
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Re: 3" FWD vs. TU
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: scottsbluff, NE
My Ride: 85 GLH
Engine: 2.5CB
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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for downpipe both vendors have them, but i think tu is 25 bucks cheaper. if you want the 3in, you would need a 3in swingvalve or a heavily ported 2.5.
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