3" Exhaust Question

[GLHNSLHT2]

I bought a daytona kit for my C-Jet (New Yorker) from TU figuring they should be exactly the same around the gas tank and over the axle which from the 2 ShelbyZ's I have sitting next to it look to be that way. Well I had to shorted the S pipe around the gas tank to try and get it to sit as close as possible, then had to cut the next piece in half, add 8" of pipe and it's still not perfect. Close but not exactly the way I want. I think I'm gonna take it off, cut it again and clock the last bend some more and weld it back on. But even though it's been a hassle I'd still buy it again probably. At least it get's you in the ball park with mandrel bends.

Right now it's an orignal Rick D 3" d'pipe, to 40" of napa 3" pipe, to the TU with an 1 1/2 taken out of the S pipe, to the next TU pipe with 8" added there(glad i bought 48" of pipe at NAPA) to the next piece of TU pipe to get you to the muffler(which I don't have) And then a 29" piece that Chris threw in the box(Thanks!) to get it out the back.

Funny thing is, it's quieter than my buddies Kcar wagon and he has an exhaust shop crush bent 3" system WITH a muffler!!!

The pipe TU uses is a thinner gauge than the NAPA pipe which makes it lighter. Very nice tubing.

Either TU's or FWD's is a good setup from the cat back. But be prepared to cut and hack it no matter who's you purchase. Just the nature of the beast. 3" is TIGHT in there. But once it's on mmmmmmmmmmm. That new yorker get's up and scoots now. Seat of the pants says 3 tenths off the 1/4 mile with just the exhaust upgrade and I had 2.5" straight pipe all the way back to the 2nd bend before the axle where it connected into the factory system and ran 14.3 on that setup at 15psi. So I think it's a high 13 second car now. Running 11.5-12.0 at WOT on the wideband with +20% FFV injectors on a stock 88 T2 calibration. I need to adjust it a bit cause they like to idle at 10:1 when cold and ignoring O2 output still. I also need to have the wideband run the car cause that factory O2 sensor is a POS making the car run 14.3-14.5 at cruise. Sorry, rambling.

[acannell]

+1 on the modifications needed...

i spent three days laying under that car 3" above my face thinking i could SOMEHOW get all the chopped up curves in the right order so that nothing would hit...NOT happening

buy the kit, take it to an exhaust shop..your done

remember this applies to certain daytona's only...the kit might fit great on other cars

[Timmay2]

Good thing about having an exhaust shop do it is they can weld and cut as they go.

Much harder when you make a cut, then try to get it to fit, then take it back down to bolt it together and put it back up again. Very hard to keep everything in the exact same spot.

It also helps to do it on a lift.. so that your suspension is not tweaked depending on where you jack the car up from.

[acannell]

+1 * 100

EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY

trying to do this with jackstands in the driveway is a NIGHTMARE.

at the exhaust shop they put the car 8 ft in the air and they can expand the ends of tubing sections which lets them wiggle the tube to make bizarre angles with ease. plus you get to look under your car and see whats going on at the same time. its the RIGHT way to do it.

someone really needs to make a cat back exhaust that DOES fit out cars with stock hangers and is just bolt on.. that WOULD be cool!!!

[Polygon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by acannell +1 * 100 EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY trying to do this with jackstands in the driveway is a NIGHTMARE. at the exhaust shop they put the car 8 ft in the air and they can expand the ends of tubing sections which lets them wiggle the tube to make bizarre angles with ease. plus you get to look under your car and see whats going on at the same time. its the RIGHT way to do it. someone really needs to make a cat back exhaust that DOES fit out cars with stock hangers and is just bolt on.. that WOULD be cool!!!

Alright, I see what you're saying and I agree. This isn't a driveway kind of job. They don't fit that well.