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Engine - Exhaust Topics about the exhaust system discussed here.

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Old 01-22-2004, 08:13 PM   #1
3" charger exhaust????will it work  
silentvoice15
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ok im fairly new to the dodge scene and i have a 85 shelby charger. Im gettin about 350 back for taxes so i decided that i wanted tp put a exhaust on my charger and i found something im worrying about, like with a 3" down pipe fit onto the turbo which is a T1 and what will i have to mod for the exhaust to fit which is gonna be all 3" also what other upgrades might help me get some more HP??? Please help i love this car.
 
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Old 01-22-2004, 11:16 PM   #2
 
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the swingvalve that is on the car is only 2.25" and a 3" DP will not bolt up to it, but they bolt up to the 89+ 2.5" swingvalve's. Nothing else on the car will be needed to be modified for the 3" piping.

as for other upgrades, invest in a manual boost controller (ala g-valve) and you can turn the boost up to about 12psi from the stock 7psi. after that you'll wanna get an intercooler in there and switch to the 88+ blow through style intake.
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Old 01-22-2004, 11:21 PM   #3
 
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ok so how do i bolt up a 3" exhaust to the turbo downpipe
 
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Old 01-22-2004, 11:36 PM   #4
 
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well the catback kits start after the cat, but a short "test pipe" replaces the cat no problem. then it's just either clamping or welding the 3" pipe to a reducer and the reducer to the 2.25" DP.
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Old 01-23-2004, 04:05 AM   #5
 
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Look for an 89-up turbo car or minivan and get the 2-1/2" swingvalve and exhaust pipe. Then you'll have 2-1/2" pipe all the way to your 3" tailpipe instead of 2-1/4".

I think you can unbolt an exhaust pipe from a Mitsubishi turbo and bolt it to a Garrett turbo. If so, any turbo minivan will give you a 2-1/2" downpipe.
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Old 01-23-2004, 07:00 AM   #6
 
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easy np then thatks
 
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Old 01-30-2004, 03:53 PM   #7
 
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ok i have another question whats a ALA-g valve and someone told me a 3" exhaust will hurt my car because its a 2.2L turbo little 4cyl will it hurt it???? and i found that 2.5" swing valve on FWDperformance so yay and wnother thing which should i run a aluminum exhaust which is lighter but cant take the heat or a SS{stainless steel} exhaust and on FWDperformace they have most of these parts and if i buy all theses parts will i have to modify any parts in the way because im runnin a 3" turbo downpipe also how hard is it to put on a fuel?air ratio guage and a boost guage also a boost controller. lol i tinhk im done
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:18 PM   #8
 
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I'm in the same boat as you, just got a 85 charger, and wanting to put a 3" exhaust on. I personally wouldn't worry about getting the "lighter" exhaust, there are other things you can loose weight with rather than exhaust, unless you want to spend the extra money. The "G-Valve" is a grainger valve, which allows the turbo to run more boost. click me <-explains it a little and shows how to make one. If I were you, I'd just buy one, you can get em for about 15-20 bucks. The Air/Fuel guage seems to be an easy install. 3 wires: power, ground and one wire to the o2 sensor. Boost I don't know how hard it is to hook up, but I'll tell you in about a week. You won't need a boost controller, because a Grainger is a boost controller. Good luck with the new Charger."thumbs up
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:42 PM   #9
 
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i dunno less wight quick responce and faster excel i dont car if its 10 or 100 lbs it helps in the long run i know that valve im way ahead of u im buy from DAWESDEVICES for the boost controller{grangier valve} cut out valve water injection and a air to fuel ratio guage but yea im most likele gonna get a 2.5 inch exhaust
 
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:41 AM   #10
 
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1st, if you're going to buy a bigger Swingvalve (SV) you might as well get the 3" from Turbo's Unleashed. Then you can bolt up the d'pipe from TU or FWDP with the 3" donut.
If you're going to use the 84-87 2.25" SV then you'll want a 2.5" donut and about 6" of the downpipe from a 89+ turbo car. You notch the mounting holes in the flange on the pipe in towards the pipe. This allows you to use the 2.5" donut and some of it's pipe on the 2.25" SV. Now Cindy at FWDP still sells the JRB downpipe that's in 3" so you can start your 3" exhaust DIRECTLY after the SV and Donut. Not way down by the cat. I'll attach a pic of how to do it. Basically you flare the 2.5" pipe to slip inside the 3" pipe leaving you just enough slack to still be able to spin the flange around the pipe freely. Also going this route will allow you to go to the 3" donut setup later down the road with the purchase of some special pipe and a donut from either vendor. Basically you have to build a place for the donut to set on and weld it on with some pipe from a mandrel bend cut at the right angle. Other than a couple welds 3" or so from the 3" donut you'd never tell it wasn't a Rick D, TU, FWDP 3" d'pipe.
Stainless Steel is lighter than Aluminized Steel. The pipe is not Aluminum! It'd melt so fast it wouldn't be funny. It'd probably save 20lbs? over the entire length of the exhaust. But it's pretty, and will last forever. So you have to decide if it's worth the price.
The sooner you can start 3" pipe the better. 3" pipe will NOT hurt your turbo car. The turbo provides plenty of backpressure that some say is required for the valves to live. So don't fall into that trap the V8 guys try to pull.
A 3" donut will make a difference. I swapped to a 3" donut after going from the setup in the attached pic. I didn't change anything else. Before and after both ran the same side exit setups, with the same turbo and 2.5" Turbonetics SV that has been ported to almost 3". I did notice about 1" of vacuum more at cruise. Boost came on 100rpm or so sooner and a lot more of it. At throttle positions that would normally result in 0psi while getting on the freeway to work or something now resulted in 5-7psi. So it did help. But you can get away with the 2.5" donut setup.

A grainger valve will also help tremendously. Boost will come on much quicker. But I recommend an A/F guage at the very least and an accurate boost gauge. I think I've covered everything.


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Old 02-02-2004, 07:32 AM   #11
 
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ok i went to turbos unleashed and looked at that 3" looks good.Does it bolt directly up to a TI with out any modification?
 
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Old 02-02-2004, 07:33 AM   #12
 
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o any by the way isnt it gonna be really hard to squeez 3" exhaust down my car like that kid said? because im doin a side exit.
 
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:31 AM   #13
 
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Nope.
In fact it wil be alot easier because it doesnt have to bend over the rear axle.

Its basically a straight shot then where ever you want the bends for the side.
Mine shoots out just before the rear left tire.

-toddi
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Old 02-02-2004, 02:50 PM   #14
 
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i dont want a isde exit exhaust i want it stright out the back
 
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:38 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by silentvoice15
i dont want a isde exit exhaust i want it stright out the back
from looking underneath my charger, it doesn't look too hard for the 3", I think the rear axle is the only real obstacle. I'm gong to run a 3" exhaust out the center of the rear, I think i'll have room.
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