exhaust size?

[WantSum?]

86 SC 2.2 T1. The motor has the stock S.V.(size?) what is the biggest exhaust i can run with keeping the motor stock? I heard changing the S.V. is rather involved( pulling the head ect)? open to any ideas.. Also with a mandrel bent exhaust, no cat, and a glass pack will i have to worry about the car over boosting? What do i do about it if it does O.B.?

seeing that its a 2.2 it would have the garrett turbo..from what i have read and been told you can run open swing valve and wont overboost/boost cut...if i was you i would go 3 inch....

[WantSum?]

ive never done a exhaust on a turbo b4, i dont know if my exhaust guy has done a open S.V. b4 either. How do you set up the open s.v.? it maybe a dumb question but i dont wanna run into any major hang ups when i get teh exhaust put on. thanks

nate

you dont want open swing vavle!!! f****n loud....get a2.5 or 3 inch set up ..from fwdperformance.com

[WantSum?]

like it makes the exhaust its self loud or a massive exhaust leak?

You have a 2.25'' swingvalve. For the cheapest and most effective route do this:
Cut off the old exhaust right before the cat(meaning the cat comes off)

This is all available at Pep Boys:

Buy (2) 4' sections of straight 2.25'' OD tubing with one end flared to 2.25'' ID. Buy one mandrel bent 90 degree elbow. And buy all the necessary clamps.
1st clamp one of the 4' sections to your stock dowpipe where you cut it off. next clamp that 90 degree bend on, you have to face it toward the drivers side you use the stock hanger. Next figure out how much you need to cut off the 2nd 4' section so it just barely sticks out of the side of your car.
This will be pretty loud and might get annoying being it's in your ear all the time. But the HP you will gain will be worth it. You can even stick a muffler in there somewhere if you wish or need it for inspection. A glass pack will probably be the best so your exhaust will not be hanging down so low.

The 2.5'' and 3'' exhaust systems from FWD performance are meant for the larger 2.5'' swingvalve and will NOT bolt right on your car. The exhaust system I mentioned is good for atleast 200 HP and costs about 40 bucks. You will probably not see 200 HP unless you use water injection on your stock T1 log manifold car.

EDIT: I see you are in PA, and you know how the inpections are getting pretty strict on emissions. So, cut you exhaust off after the cat(leave enough to clamp a new pipe on!) and then route the pipes with a glass pack in there somewhere.

Or, you can do what I did at first and just chop off the muffler and replace it with a glass pack. Thats probably only good for 5 HP though.

[WantSum?]

Actully the car will be registered in ohio at my parents. They have emmissions, but only like every 2-3 years, no inspections. so for me no cat, no problem. here is what i want to know.

I have the 2.25 SV so i can only run a 2.25 exhaust.

1. If i get a mandrel bent exhaust in 2.25" with no cat and a glass pack what will i be looking at gain wise?

VS.

2. changing the SV out for a larger one and go with a bigger exhaust, same set up.

3. how hard is it to change the SV? what do you do?

4. what SV would i use?

Here is the basic set-up

T1 5 speed completely stock except for

very soon to be large IC
mangnacore wires, good plugs
45k coil

nate

On a stock car the gain will be noticeable, but not a lot. Maybe 5-10 HP.

You need to read up in the TURBO DATABASE of www.thedodgegarage.com on the T2 conversion. You cannot intercool your car without major changes. Also you have the weak 525 trans and will blow up fairly easily.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally posted by WantSum? Actully the car will be registered in ohio at my parents. They have emmissions, but only like every 2-3 years, no inspections. so for me no cat, no problem. here is what i want to know. I have the 2.25 SV so i can only run a 2.25 exhaust. 1. If i get a mandrel bent exhaust in 2.25" with no cat and a glass pack what will i be looking at gain wise? VS. 2. changing the SV out for a larger one and go with a bigger exhaust, same set up. 3. how hard is it to change the SV? what do you do? 4. what SV would i use? Here is the basic set-up T1 5 speed completely stock except for very soon to be large IC mangnacore wires, good plugs 45k coil nate

Because you run the 2.25" SV doesn't mean you can't run big exhaust. Here's what you do. You call cindy at FWDP and tell her you want the 3" JRB style downpipe, and the 3" catback setup for your car. You then go down to the j-yard and get yourself a 2.5" donut/downpipe from a 89+ mitsu turbo car (you only need about 6" of the downpipe). Now when your downpipe arrives from FWDP you take your 2.5" donut and pipe and the 3" d'pipe to the exhaust shop and have them flare it out immediately after the flange that holds the donut up in the sv so that it just slides down into the 3" pipe. The sooner you flare it the better. I leave just enough so that I can barely spin the flange. Then I take it home and align the downpipe in the tunnel and then cut the 2.5" setup as short as I can and still have it sit in the 3" d'pipe enough to weld it up. After it's welded I then notch the flange towards the donut so that it'll fit the smaller flange diameter of the bolt pattern. Then you can bolt up the 2.5" donut to the 2.25" SV. Works pretty good. Then if you upgrade later you're still ok. If you go all the way to a 3" SV you'll have to buy a matching downpipe with a 3" donut or an adapter through TU depending on your budget. But you can have 3" exhaust on a 2.25" sV. I ran 13's on my heavy daytona with a mix of 2.5 and 2.25" side exit like 87DTNA described above. But I did pick up some lower end torque and a bit of top end going to the 3" setup I just described. Worth it if you're gonna go straight from stock to 3". I have since upgraded to a ported 2.5" turbonetics SV and then switched to a 3" donut with it's matching downpipe from TU and sold the old d'pipe with the 2.5" donut. Going to the 3" donut did help with boost spool and cruising vacuum. But it's not a real huge gain. Anyway those are your options. By the time you get to a larger SV and a 3" donut you should have converted your car to T2 along with added some beefier rods at the least if not gone all the way with a commonblock T2 shortblock.

[Pat]

Quote:

Originally posted by hiboost if i was you i would go 3 inch....

3" is nice, but it's louder and more expensive. 2.5" mandrel bent is more then enough for a stout street car, especially if it's running the stock Garrett with a .48 exhaust housing. The housing is a cork long before the exhaust system is.

GLHNSLHT2-
Thats an interesting idea.
Well, I have a 2.5'' mitsu swingvalve for sale if he's interested in doing that!

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally posted by Pat 3" is nice, but it's louder and more expensive. 2.5" mandrel bent is more then enough for a stout street car, especially if it's running the stock Garrett with a .48 exhaust housing. The housing is a cork long before the exhaust system is.

I went from 2.5" straight pipe, to 3" with a dynomax Race mag. Pipe lengths stayed the same. The 2.5" was much louder. I am now running 3" straight pipe in the same configuration as the other two. I find it the same volume as the 3" with the dynomax. At idle I can't tell if it's running sometimes. Just a nice deep burble. The 2.5" was like a gun going off all the time. I didn't like it all the time it was too loud and sharp.

Also I picked up a good amount of low end grunt going to 3". With the 2.5" I could go from about 10MPH in 2nd and floor it. The tires would be right at their breaking loose point but not cross it. Going to the 3" crossed that point by a big margin. Doing that would result in lots of wheelspin The 1st two systems (2.5" and 1st generation of 3") were with the .48 stock 87 T2 turbo. Going to the 3" was definately worth it and netted a gain in performance.

If you have a garrett "Get Real" Get 3" from the beginning. Why spend the cash twice? I believe in the Do it once, do it right philosophy. Plan for future mods. It ALWAYS saves money in the long run.

I know someone that had a 3" SV and 3" side exit on a T1 GLH with just a grainger. The Car absolutely screamed for what it had into it. 2.5" exhaust should of (and most of the system was) stock for our cars. 3" is just the next step up. Remember the little tiny sections of 2" and 1 7/8" pipe were from N/A versions of our cars. SAD! But Mopar had to save money somewhere.

Now People see me with the oddball stock 2.5 in a 3120lb car that runs 13.8's@101.8 on street tires (2.360ft) and 13.5psi with 5700rpm shift points. So your results may very.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally posted by 87DTNA GLHNSLHT2- Thats an interesting idea. Well, I have a 2.5'' mitsu swingvalve for sale if he's interested in doing that!

NO, you just use the 2.5" donut and downpipe from the 89+ mitsu car. Any 89+ turbo actually but Mitsu ones are the most common so I said that. A Mitsu SV will not work on his garrett.

Quote:

Originally posted by GLHNSLHT2 NO, you just use the 2.5" donut and downpipe from the 89+ mitsu car. Any 89+ turbo actually but Mitsu ones are the most common so I said that. A Mitsu SV will not work on his garrett.

Oh I must have not understood what you were trying to say then. I thought you were taking the large flange off a mitsu SV and welding it onto a garret 2.25'' SV. I know that they do not interchange, garret has 5 bolts mitsu has 4. Plus the garrets wastegate flapper is on the SV, the mitsu has the flapper in the turbine housing.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally posted by 87DTNA Oh I must have not understood what you were trying to say then. I thought you were taking the large flange off a mitsu SV and welding it onto a garret 2.25'' SV. I know that they do not interchange, garret has 5 bolts mitsu has 4. Plus the garrets wastegate flapper is on the SV, the mitsu has the flapper in the turbine housing.

Nope, you weld the 2.5" donut and pipe into the JRB style 3" d'pipe. The Flange I was referring too is the stamped piece of steel that holds the downpipe to the SV.