4 wire O2 sensor

[BlueBaron]

Ok, a new twist to the subject.
I was told by a fellow TD'er that you can't cut and solder the wires on the sensor itself, without effecting it's proper way of working.
I emailed a friend who's a mechanic by trade, and he agreed.

Opinions?

________________________
*THE* Ean Orsel
http://www.thebluebaron.net
'87 LeBaron custom coupe

[Una]

I cut them every time. Solder or crimp, works fine.

[Aries_Turbo]

the black wire ususally signal and the grey is return. if your sensor doesnt work, swap those two wires. :)

Yeah you can cut them as long as you crimp and/or solder and use a high temp, waterproof method to seal up the joints.

Brian

[DodgeZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueBaron Ok, a new twist to the subject. I was told by a fellow TD'er that you can't cut and solder the wires on the sensor itself, without effecting it's proper way of working. I emailed a friend who's a mechanic by trade, and he agreed. Opinions? ________________________ *THE* Ean Orsel http://www.thebluebaron.net '87 LeBaron custom coupe

You'd never be able to ad an A/F gauge if that was true.

[BlueBaron]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DodgeZ You'd never be able to ad an A/F gauge if that was true.

I figured it would hook up to the harness side of the O2 plug. Does it need to be attached to the sensor side?

________________________
*THE* Ean Orsel
http://www.thebluebaron.net
'87 LeBaron custom coupe

[dGilmour]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueBaron I figured it would hook up to the harness side of the O2 plug. Does it need to be attached to the sensor side?

I don't think it should make a difference - if something changed the voltage on one side of the connector from the other, the computer wouldn't see the same voltage as the sensor puts out, and that wouldn't be very accurate, would it? Anyone is allowed to shoot my hypothesis down, I could be wrong.

[crazymadbastard]

Shoudn't this be in Engine management instead of here?
I understand that it is attached to the exhaust, but I think this belongs elsewhere.

[drivercrazy23]

I have a new sensor from a toyota corolla, its a 4 wire, would it work if i found the what was the right wires? On another note, how the crap do I get this sensor out of my car(88' daytona tbi). I cant get it from under, from above. Is it possible to get it out with out taking off the intake many? Also what is the advantage of a 4 wire over a 3 wire?

[90Shadow]

When I installed my o2 sensor, I went to the scrap yard and cut off the sensor connector, and the main harness connector. When I got home I reversed the setup so the connector from the scrap o2 would plug into the cars harnes and the scrap cars harness would plug into the new sensors connector. I soldered all the connectoins back up and added an extra wire to the grey ( think) wire for the o2 signal.
The cool thing about this setup is that I didnt have to modify any of my cars wiring system, I just have to plug this home made adapter into the mix! I will post a picture as soon as i find my camera.

[FUCHSAUDIO]

I went online to buy a 1999 Intrepid Oxygen sensor, and was met with many choices. Here's one example:

http://www.drivewire.com/chryslerpar...gensensor.html

So I guess the question is: Which one should i get ? I assume my dealer will ask the same questions. BTW :I am installing it on an '85 600 Turbo SE convertable.

I understand the 4-wire wiring vs the original single wire, except for one question: The heater power wiring. I assume one heater lead is ground the other is the hot lead. The hot lead is powered off what circuit ? Since it's a heater, I assume it's got a pretty healthy current draw, so where can I tap a (switched) power source for it ? Thanks in advance.

[phantomrt]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FUCHSAUDIO I went online to buy a 1999 Intrepid Oxygen sensor, and was met with many choices. Here's one example: http://www.drivewire.com/chryslerpar...gensensor.html So I guess the question is: Which one should i get ? I assume my dealer will ask the same questions. BTW :I am installing it on an '85 600 Turbo SE convertable. I understand the 4-wire wiring vs the original single wire, except for one question: The heater power wiring. I assume one heater lead is ground the other is the hot lead. The hot lead is powered off what circuit ? Since it's a heater, I assume it's got a pretty healthy current draw, so where can I tap a (switched) power source for it ? Thanks in advance.

The 3.5, 3.2, and 2.7 all use the same oxygen sensors in 1999. A 2003 sensor will probably work, but I don't know anything about those.

The front oxygen sensors and the rears are the same. On the LH cars, they have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold both banks of cylinders. Then, immediately downstream of the manifold is a catylitic converter. One for both banks of cylinders. Then behind the converters are another oxygen sensor (rear) for both banks of cylinders. The purpose of the rear sensors is to sniff the exhaust gasses downstream of the catylitic converters to determine if they are doing their job. When the converters go ca'put, that malfunction indicator lamp comes on! Plus, this way the engine controller can determine if an oxygen sensor is giving bad readings.

I do not have any reason to believe that the 2nd Gen LH car sensors will not work. As far as I know they are standard narrow band 4-wire oxygen sensors. However I would still go to the dealer for a sensor.....

There is a (+) power wire for the heating element in the sensor
There is a (-) wire for the heating element ground (to complete the circuit)

There is a (+) signal wire for the oxygen sensor's voltage output.
There is a (-) wire for the signal ground. Think of trying to test voltage in a battery with only one wire. It won't work. This replaces the exhaust manifold's high resistance grounding which is key to getting good, clean, accurate voltage output from the sensor. Whoever is the genius who thought you could go without this wire I would like to punch in the head.

Oh, you can clip the wires and add/remove lengths of wire without affecting them. What do you think happens when you plug them into the car's harness? THEY GET LONGER. Two different cars will use the same exact sensor but overall wiring harness length will undoubtedly be different.

[dGilmour]

Quote:

Whoever is the genius who thought you could go without this wire I would like to punch in the head.

Nice!

[Alex]

Can the O2 sensors be tested ??

How ??

[dGilmour]

Yes, they can be tested.

Cut into the signal wire (doesn't matter which side of the plug, I just did it on the harness side) and hook up your own bit of speaker wire. Run that through your passenger side window. Then run another speaker wire from your neg batt terminal from a ground, and put that through your driver window. Put the wires on a voltmeter and go drive around.

I don't remember what voltages you should see at various points of boost and idle, but you can find those numbers at www.minimopar.net

Remember though, that your sensor must warm up before you get any sort of voltage from the sensor!

Hope this helps, it did for me.

[1986_TURBO_Z]

what years of chryslers can I get 4 wire o2 sensor plugs from?? will any 89+ N/a cars have these plugs? How about the 3.0 engines?

thanks