Turbo to intercooler pipe connector

[1991shelby]

I was looking for any suggestions on a coupler to go from my turbo to an intercooler line. The turbo outlet looks to be 2in and I had a friend bend me some 2in exhaust piping for the lines. I will be running stock boost and at best, untill I get my other engine rebuilt, I may run stage3 cals. with 15 lbs of boost.
Yes the turbo is a mits and I know get a garrett.
I am trying to keep this budget intercooler project but I'm not sure how hot the turbo will get and don't want to melt anything.
Thanks for any suggestions.

[Screamin4banger]

are you asking what material the coupler should be? you can buy silicone couplers anyplace that sells intercooler stuff.

[1991shelby]

I have seen threads saying the silicone coupler on ebay won't stay on. I bought some silicone vaccuum lines and I will never do that again. They get weak with heat and colaspe. I guess I would perfer rubber but again not sure if it will melt from the heat of the turbo. Rubber is also more rigid and I would think it would hold and help support the piping better.
So in short I guess yes what material will work?
Thanks

[detobias]

good junkyard parts to have on hand:

the late TI intake (pre turbo) ducts are hard rubber and have a 45 and a 90 in them ; I have used them in turbo / IC applications (pressurized side)

the pre-97 F150s have nice dual intake ductwork (like 2" rad hose) with a spiral wire inside, and lotsa nice angles, plus 2 different "adapter" flares fro going from e.g. 2" <-> 2.5"

[tryingbe]

Stock hoses for TII intercooled cars are rubber. Maybe you should look into getting a set of those.

If you want to buy silicone hoses, get the high quality 4 ply ones and use T-bolt clamps with it and it'll hold fine.

[NoDestiny]

I don't care what kind of coupler you have, if they are not installed properly, or with the proper supported hardware, they will NEVER stay on. I have been using silicone couplers (ebay ones if you will) with 22psi with no issues. Use T-bolt clamps and NOT the worm clamps. Make sure they are snug and do leak tests. I don't even need any kind of flange or lip to make it seal and hold (though a lip on the end definitely helps).

Another trick is to put some hair spray on the pipe before you put the coupler on. Gives it "traction".

[1991shelby]

Thanks for the input guys. I have two late T1 hoses I can use and still have a very nice one as a spare just in case. My friend is going to make an adapter to fit the original hose so all I have to do is cut it after the BOV nipple and clamp it. He is also going to swedge the ends a bit like a lip.
Thanks for the help

[stargazer7467]

you can get the silicone one just make sure they have the fiber reinforcement in them, or got to Oreilly and get a length of gas filler neck hose and cut into however many couplers you need, usually about $12 a foot. Ive been running a piece for almost 2 years.

[detobias]

Aztec Gold GLH FTW !

[jonnymopar]

Man I looked at that quick and thought for a minute that you had used two of the valve cover bolts to secure it! That looks pretty nice.

[1991shelby]

I never thought of a gas filler neck. Interesting. I saw on a thread here one guy used PVC piping on the intake side. Not too sure about that but he said it worked great.
This time it won't be pretty, hopefully just work.
I have a seperate engine and trans I plan on rebuilding. Then I can really play and worry about looks.
Thanks guys I love all the ideas (some for now, some for later)

[detobias]

you can use the *black* PVC, either as "temporary" or as a setup aid to get everything where you want it then replicate it in steel or Alum ; I was running a section from my IC -> TB for a while - no problemo

IMO some people spend too much time & $$ on the 'IC tubes' ; unless you're pushing a big turbo and LOTS of air, theres very little HP to be gained going to mandrel bent 3" polished pipes & silicone hump couplers ... my $0.02 'git 'er done'

[1991shelby]

I am useing exhaust pipe 2 in. that my friend bent at his work. All I had to pay was $10 for the pipe and his time was free on his day off.
I could not pass the deal up.

[Gutfeeling]

Quote:

Originally Posted by detobias IMO some people spend too much time & $$ on the 'IC tubes' ; unless you're pushing a big turbo and LOTS of air, theres very little HP to be gained going to mandrel bent 3" polished pipes & silicone hump couplers ...

Not always is it for performance reasons. I use aluminum IC tubing since I don't want a piece of exhaust tubing rust falling back in to my engine again causing a future problem. Yes it has happened.
Sure aluminum corrodes, but it's more of a powder than chunks of rotten metal... An engine can blow out the powdered like corrosion!
To help explain why the rust from the steel tubing happened to begin with was that the car sat in a field for a while and the owner that I bought it from said it ran but needed some electrical work. I said, "no problem" and as he started it up I didnt think twice about the condition of the IC tubing then after fixing all the bugs out it had this miss fire............... Long story short, it stuck open a valve and gouged the seat area needing a new head. This was on a turbo grand prix.

[1991shelby]

This is aluminized pipe. I know it still rusts after time but by that time I will have my new motor done with a new intercooler and have to redo all pipes anyway. But yes I see where you are coming from.