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08-27-2007, 10:52 PM
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#151
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sacramento, Minneapolis
My Ride: '86 Omni GLH-T
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.760
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Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland
You need the one-way valve on the line that goes to your climate control in the cabin (it gets vacuum only). You also need the check valves on the purge canister lines if you are running emissions equipment (again, purge canister should see vacuum only).
Someone chime in here, but I think there's one on the cruise control system too.
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None of these vac lines will directly hook into the vac distribution block. You should only be running the AFPR, BOV, Master Cylinder, Wastgate, and MAP from the vac block. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these were the only vac lines I ran from my block on my Omni.
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08-27-2007, 11:21 PM
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#152
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Brainerd, MN
My Ride: '90 Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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no cruise and no emissions as it will be a track car.
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08-28-2007, 08:29 AM
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#153
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
My Ride: '90 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 I/C T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by anokabball24
None of these vac lines will directly hook into the vac distribution block. You should only be running the AFPR, BOV, Master Cylinder, Wastgate, and MAP from the vac block. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these were the only vac lines I ran from my block on my Omni.
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That's true, but I didn't want anyone that might read this later to get the wrong idea and remove all their check valves.
The master cylinder typically runs off the large port on the back of the intake. Adding to your list, you will also have your boost gauge running on the vacuum block and some people run their boost controller from it also (be it a g-valve or whatver). You don't need any check valves on lines that come directly off the vacuum block.
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08-31-2007, 12:07 PM
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#154
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
My Ride: 85 GLH Omni/05 SRT4
Engine: 2.2/2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland
I ordered one from McMaster Carr. I got the alloy one (painted black) and it works great. It's listed as a "distribution manifold". Go to their website mcmastercarr.com and enter 5085K51 in the part number search on the left of the webpage. That's for the aluminum 6-port model. You can choose the "catalog page" link and look at the other options there.
They ship fast too. I ordered it on a Monday night and it showed up Wednesday morning.
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Do you know if the barbs are included with the block to connect vacuum lines?
-Chris
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08-31-2007, 12:41 PM
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#155
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
My Ride: '90 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 I/C T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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No they aren't. You can order some from McMaster, but I just picked up mine at the local hardware store. The McMaster vacuum block has 2 1/4 NPT fittings on the ends and 6 1/8 NPT fittings along its length. I ran main vacuum source to one of the 1/4 ends, 4 of the 1/8 fittings are vacuum items (MAP, FPR, gauge, and BOV), the other 2 1/8 are brass plugged, and other large one has a capped off barb. I was going to run the g-valve there, but I ran it to one of the barbs on the turbo housing instead. PCV has its own source (bottom intake line) and the brake boost/cruise/climate systems run off the barb on the back of the intake. I guess really you only need 5 ports. Though I might plumb my EGR stuff back in eventually so then I'd need 6.
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08-31-2007, 12:43 PM
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#156
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
My Ride: 85 GLH Omni/05 SRT4
Engine: 2.2/2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland
No they aren't. You can order some from McMaster, but I just picked up mine at the local hardware store. The McMaster vacuum block has 2 1/4 NPT fittings on the ends and 6 1/8 NPT fittings along its length. I ran main vacuum source to one of the 1/4 ends, 4 of the 1/8 fittings are vacuum items (MAP, FPR, gauge, and BOV), the other 2 1/8 are brass plugged, and other large one has a capped off barb. I was going to run the g-valve there, but I ran it to one of the barbs on the turbo housing instead. PCV has its own source (bottom intake line) and the brake boost/cruise/climate systems run off the barb on the back of the intake. I guess really you only need 5 ports. Though I might plumb my EGR stuff back in eventually so then I'd need 6.
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Question...Do they sell vacuum blocks at any hard ware stores?
-Chris
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08-31-2007, 02:57 PM
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#157
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
My Ride: '90 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 I/C T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Not any around here. I've checked the chain stores and the local "have everything" stores too. The closest I've seen is in the pneumatic and compressor tools section. They occassionally have 3 or 4-way ones, but they're odd shapes. It would be considered a "distribution manifold" if you want to try asking around at the hardware stores.
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10-12-2007, 11:11 PM
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#159
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Re: Installing a Vacuum Block
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
My Ride: 88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 Turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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If I'm going to install a vacuum block, what do I do with all of those plastic lines leading to those solenoids in the passenger side fender? Also, what size barbs do you need? It looks like most of the lines are 1/8" or 3/16".
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08-04-2008, 07:04 PM
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#160
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Re: Installing a Vacuum Block
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Mitsu Booster
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
My Ride: 88 baron
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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so im really bored and decided to take the vac diagram and mark off what i think is everything to go off in the vac block. am i on the right track or am i missing something or somethings?? thanks for any help
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08-05-2008, 11:17 AM
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#161
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Re: Installing a Vacuum Block
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
My Ride: '90 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 I/C T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I would not run the PCV system to it. If the valve fails, you could get oil in your vacuum block. Besides, the system should be seperate from the rest of the vacuum already. Just leave that be. I'd also leave your brake system alone. That comes off the barb on the back of the intake and is also its own system. Basically, run your vacuum block off of the front barb on the intake. Then run seperate lines from the block to the MAP, BOV, Boost gauge, FPR and g-valve.
In your picture, the "air shutoff valve" is the BOV. The item you're pointing to is a vacuum valve meant to release pressure on the BOV so it will close again.
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08-05-2008, 12:25 PM
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#162
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Re: Installing a Vacuum Block
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Mitsu Booster
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fond Du Lac, WI
My Ride: 88 baron
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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o alright all makes sense now. hey thanks alot man!!
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