Installing a Vacuum Block

[Subliminal]

I think you'll find, once you install the vacuum block, that you'll actually have too many ports. Drilling into your manifold is also uneccesary, as there are already several ports available.

I used a few brass fittings and mine hangs right above the fuel rail in the middle of the intake. If you want, you can run a vac tube from that big ass port above the knock sensor on the front to the firewall and mount in there. Just whatever you think looks peachy.

I remember, before I installed my vacuum block back in the day, that i was scared of the vacuum system. Oh, the mystery. Now it's just plug and play. You make sure you have a good vac source (either booster nipple on back of intake or main nipple on front, somehow connect it to the block, then just run lines to anything that requires vacuum. End of story. No need to second guess yourself. If you forget to hook something up, it just won't work. Forget to hook up the bov, and you have no bov, forget to hook up the FPR, you get no fuel. Forget to hook up the map, you got no start.

If you forget something, just hook it up...easy as pie!

d

[SLICK68]

Subliminal...awesome reply. thank you very much. like you read my mind. i have never done anything to cars and what probably seems easy for all you vets out there...its intimidating to me-vac-lines were my worst nightmare till ya explained it like that.

ty
Chris

[iloveshelbys]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLICK68 1 line for bov, wastegate, cruise control 1 line for MAP 1 line for afpr 1 line for brakes 1 line for gauge(needs its own doesn't it?) ty Chris

Ok, I am understanding all of these and have hooked everything up except for one thing.. the WASTEGATE to the vacuum block.

I looked on my vacuum diagram ('90 2.5 T1) and see that the vauum line off the wastegate is connected to the wastegate solenoid(nothing connecting it to the manifold at all). So am I supposed to just undo this line and just make the connection from the wastegate to the vacuum block, and say screw it to this solenoid??

help please

oh and on which line does the g-valve get tapped into

[firebaron90]

If it is a blow through like all the above pictured, then you would run a vac line for the nipple closest to the output of the turbo to the waste gate solenoid, and t that line to the accuator. If you are using a grainger, then run the line from same place on turbo, to the accuator, and splace in the grainger in between.

Joe

[malibuolds]

just noticed this thread was brought back up and thought i'd reply with a pic now that i've upgraded my vacuum block. here is my setup, i got the nickel plated McMaster-Carr 6 port block:





left end is source (doh), then MAP, FPR, plug, BOV, plug, plug, and right end is for the Autometer boost gauge. btw, i have my grainger valve sourced from the turbo's compressor outlet fitting instead of the distribution block.

works and looks great! i love it :)
--------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'89 Lebaron GTS - T2/A555
'91 Cutlass Supreme sedan - 3.1 Intercooled Turbo/Getrag 282 5-speed

[iloveshelbys]

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebaron90 If it is a blow through like all the above pictured, then you would run a vac line for the nipple closest to the output of the turbo to the waste gate solenoid, and t that line to the accuator. If you are using a grainger, then run the line from same place on turbo, to the accuator, and splace in the grainger in between. Joe

ok.. a few confusing things here.. first, by "accuator" do u mean the waste gate?

and second, from your solenoid to turbo explanation of putting a line in between there, i am confused since then you say to T off in the middle of that line to the "accuator".. and if using a g-valve just splice the line in between the turbo and accuator.. BUT from your set up explanation there is no direct line from the trubo to the accuator. There is a line that T's off to the accuator that is in between turbo and solenoid.

Am i missing something here? I hope so? .. so none of these lines that deal with the turbo/accuator/solenoid get hooked up to the vacuum block?

thanks for the explanation so far tho firebaron90

[firebaron90]

OK....

IF you were going stock, you would have a line going from the turbo outlet, to the waste gate solenoid. Then a Vacuum "tee" would be placed about 6 inches from the turbo outlet, and this line would run to the waste gate ACCUATOR, which is the large disc shaped thing attop the turbo.

"how it works" when the turbo produces boost, the all the vacuum lines will have pressure in them,instead of vacuum. THe waste gate solenoid is switched, and venting to the atmosphere. When the map sensor sees boost the solenoid switched,and now the pressure is making the watse gate start to open. This is basically how boost is regulated.

Now, if you are using a grainger, you do not need to run a line to the solenoid, as it no longer is really used. Just run a line from turbo outlet to the disc shaped accuator. Install the grainer in between.

Now, some people use the distrubution block to feed the grainger, but i am against this. I just use this dedicated line.

Joe

[iloveshelbys]

thanks again firebaron90
...so plug off the solenoid and put the g-valve in between the turbo and waste gate, got it....

any reason why u are against using the distribution block to feed the grainer? curious cuz almost every application that i've seen seems to have the g-valve Teed off of one of the lines coming off of the newly installed vacuum block.

any one have any other opinion in this type of g-valve to vacuum block set up ?

[malibuolds]

i have my grainger valve mounted like firebaron; on a vacuum line inline between the wastegate can and the fitting on the turbocharger's compressor outlet. although, one of my brother's stock Garrett turbos has NO outlet fitting, so he has to use the distribution block instead (or drill & tap the compressor housing). i think the reasoning behind sourcing the grainger valve from the turbo's compressor outlet fitting (as opposed to anywhere else) is because there is less chance for spiking, IOW the grainger valve gets the preset amount of boost sooner and opens the wastegate quicker.
--------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'89 Lebaron GTS - T2/A555
'91 Cutlass Supreme sedan - 3.1 Intercooled Turbo/Getrag 282 5-speed

[firebaron90]

IOW the grainger valve gets the preset amount of boost sooner and opens the wastegate quicker.


Precisely.....the boost front leaves the outlet, and it is unmolested as it travels throught the line to the ball of the grainger valve. Dont forget to vent the grainger valve with a 1/64" hole if you are building your own. THis also helps prevent spiking.


The thing is, it is a PIA if a cap comes off that nipple on the outlet, so....use it, and plug any unnecassary holes in the manifold.


Joe

[iloveshelbys]

ok great ! umm is there any restrictors i will have to worry about along the turbo to waste gate vacuum line on the original set up? and shoudl i just remove them?

oh.. which way to install the grainer valve now? I do have a 1/64" hole drilled into it already... but should the end of the g-valve that has the ball be plugged towards the turbo's outlet, and the other end of it to the waste gate? or is this the other way around?

[firebaron90]

Did you make the valve???? And did you reverse the order of the ball and spring from inside the valve??? If you bought it already set up it should be ok.
I do not run a restrictor in the line, as the granger acts as a big restrictor itself. A restrictor may not hurt....try it out, you can always remove it. It is a good idea to have the adjustable end pointing up, meaning turbo, vac line to accuator, grainger in this line with adjustable end feeding into the accuator. Thsi assures the ball and spring is set right, and it is easyier to adjust.

Joe

[iloveshelbys]

No, I didnt make it my self but bought it off some one on the board (not sure if it was ever used tho)... i will just take apart and see if its set right.

thanks for all the quick help firebaron !

[iloveshelbys]

firebaron90 and malibuolds

have you guys had any problems of seeing boost spiking when shifting with the g valve set up like that?

[firebaron90]

No, I run a manual valve body Auto, so it really just keeps spooling for me. IS it spiking??? Is there a very small hole in the granger valve (1/64") That could be the cause. I dont have a camera with me, so i cant show you how i have mine set up.


Joe