Installing a Vacuum Block

[anokabball24]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland You need the one-way valve on the line that goes to your climate control in the cabin (it gets vacuum only). You also need the check valves on the purge canister lines if you are running emissions equipment (again, purge canister should see vacuum only). Someone chime in here, but I think there's one on the cruise control system too.

None of these vac lines will directly hook into the vac distribution block. You should only be running the AFPR, BOV, Master Cylinder, Wastgate, and MAP from the vac block. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these were the only vac lines I ran from my block on my Omni.

[mnmattie]

no cruise and no emissions as it will be a track car.

[EvilcowRoland]

Quote:

Originally Posted by anokabball24 None of these vac lines will directly hook into the vac distribution block. You should only be running the AFPR, BOV, Master Cylinder, Wastgate, and MAP from the vac block. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these were the only vac lines I ran from my block on my Omni.

That's true, but I didn't want anyone that might read this later to get the wrong idea and remove all their check valves.

The master cylinder typically runs off the large port on the back of the intake. Adding to your list, you will also have your boost gauge running on the vacuum block and some people run their boost controller from it also (be it a g-valve or whatver). You don't need any check valves on lines that come directly off the vacuum block.

[mimiGLH22]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland I ordered one from McMaster Carr. I got the alloy one (painted black) and it works great. It's listed as a "distribution manifold". Go to their website mcmastercarr.com and enter 5085K51 in the part number search on the left of the webpage. That's for the aluminum 6-port model. You can choose the "catalog page" link and look at the other options there. They ship fast too. I ordered it on a Monday night and it showed up Wednesday morning.

Do you know if the barbs are included with the block to connect vacuum lines?
-Chris

[EvilcowRoland]

No they aren't. You can order some from McMaster, but I just picked up mine at the local hardware store. The McMaster vacuum block has 2 1/4 NPT fittings on the ends and 6 1/8 NPT fittings along its length. I ran main vacuum source to one of the 1/4 ends, 4 of the 1/8 fittings are vacuum items (MAP, FPR, gauge, and BOV), the other 2 1/8 are brass plugged, and other large one has a capped off barb. I was going to run the g-valve there, but I ran it to one of the barbs on the turbo housing instead. PCV has its own source (bottom intake line) and the brake boost/cruise/climate systems run off the barb on the back of the intake. I guess really you only need 5 ports. Though I might plumb my EGR stuff back in eventually so then I'd need 6.

[mimiGLH22]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland No they aren't. You can order some from McMaster, but I just picked up mine at the local hardware store. The McMaster vacuum block has 2 1/4 NPT fittings on the ends and 6 1/8 NPT fittings along its length. I ran main vacuum source to one of the 1/4 ends, 4 of the 1/8 fittings are vacuum items (MAP, FPR, gauge, and BOV), the other 2 1/8 are brass plugged, and other large one has a capped off barb. I was going to run the g-valve there, but I ran it to one of the barbs on the turbo housing instead. PCV has its own source (bottom intake line) and the brake boost/cruise/climate systems run off the barb on the back of the intake. I guess really you only need 5 ports. Though I might plumb my EGR stuff back in eventually so then I'd need 6.

Question...Do they sell vacuum blocks at any hard ware stores?

-Chris

[EvilcowRoland]

Not any around here. I've checked the chain stores and the local "have everything" stores too. The closest I've seen is in the pneumatic and compressor tools section. They occassionally have 3 or 4-way ones, but they're odd shapes. It would be considered a "distribution manifold" if you want to try asking around at the hardware stores.

[mimiGLH22]

Well, finally got around to installing my block. I had to go to Loews to pick up the barbs and purchased the block from Mcmaster carr. I like this setup, it cleans things up a bit.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...acuumblock.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o.../EngineBay.jpg
-Chris

[camarobutcher]

If I'm going to install a vacuum block, what do I do with all of those plastic lines leading to those solenoids in the passenger side fender? Also, what size barbs do you need? It looks like most of the lines are 1/8" or 3/16".

[3.0V6T]

so im really bored and decided to take the vac diagram and mark off what i think is everything to go off in the vac block. am i on the right track or am i missing something or somethings?? thanks for any help

[EvilcowRoland]

I would not run the PCV system to it. If the valve fails, you could get oil in your vacuum block. Besides, the system should be seperate from the rest of the vacuum already. Just leave that be. I'd also leave your brake system alone. That comes off the barb on the back of the intake and is also its own system. Basically, run your vacuum block off of the front barb on the intake. Then run seperate lines from the block to the MAP, BOV, Boost gauge, FPR and g-valve.

In your picture, the "air shutoff valve" is the BOV. The item you're pointing to is a vacuum valve meant to release pressure on the BOV so it will close again.

[3.0V6T]

o alright all makes sense now. hey thanks alot man!!

[Team Canada]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland I would not run the PCV system to it. If the valve fails, you could get oil in your vacuum block. Besides, the system should be seperate from the rest of the vacuum already. Just leave that be. I'd also leave your brake system alone. That comes off the barb on the back of the intake and is also its own system. Basically, run your vacuum block off of the front barb on the intake. Then run seperate lines from the block to the MAP, BOV, Boost gauge, FPR and g-valve. In your picture, the "air shutoff valve" is the BOV. The item you're pointing to is a vacuum valve meant to release pressure on the BOV so it will close again.

BTW, this thread rocks!!!

I'm planning on finally cleaning up the vacuum lines on my 89 Spirit ES this weekend. Although I've never had any problems until I just changed the head gasket and had to move all of the original vacuum lines out of the way (and snapped a couple and had a b1tch of a time trying to match up the flimsy little hard plastic lines), I think it's time to do a vaccum block and line trick. One question, though, what about all the vacuum lines running for the EGR stuff and the ones running into the air cleaner? Do I simply disconnect the egr stuff and not worry about it (does it affect the ECU or anything?)

My car is absolutely stock ( I bought it new in 89 and it has 40K miles) and I think its time to start playing, hehehe!

PS, call me stupid, but what is a Grainger???

[EvilcowRoland]

Okay stupid. just kidding.

A grainger valve is just an adjustable vacuum control valve (sold by Grainger industrial supply, hence the name). Other places sell them like McMaster Carr. If you flip the check ball and spring inside, it becomes an adjustable boost controller.

You don't "need" any of the EGR or emissions bits in the vacuum system. You can just cap them off. But you need to leave all of the electrical plugs connected or the computer will throw codes. If you have to do emissions testing then you shouldn't mess with the emissions parts though, EGR included.

[Team Canada]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilcowRoland Okay stupid. just kidding. A grainger valve is just an adjustable vacuum control valve (sold by Grainger industrial supply, hence the name). Other places sell them like McMaster Carr. If you flip the check ball and spring inside, it becomes an adjustable boost controller. You don't "need" any of the EGR or emissions bits in the vacuum system. You can just cap them off. But you need to leave all of the electrical plugs connected or the computer will throw codes. If you have to do emissions testing then you shouldn't mess with the emissions parts though, EGR included.

ok, I've got the vacuum block, lines running from the MAP, FPR, and to source. My car has the BOV (shut off valve in the airbox) and the vaccum running to the turbo is coming from the brake vacuum. Should I just leave that alone as they are t'eed off of the brake vacuum, running to the airbox, heater control valve and to the turbo?
What about the lines running from the purge solenoid? Can I simply leave these lines, the ones going to the evap canister and the ones running to the throttle body disconnected and cap off the throttle body lines?