Installing a Vacuum Block

[Turbo2 Guy]

I posted this in error under help....so I'll try again...Question: '86 Daytona Turbo Z 2.2...converted recently to T2 w/ Intercooler, one-piece manifold. I have a (6) port vacuum block, I want to install and remove the current T1 vacuum lines.....Questions: (1.) Where should I bolt the vacuum block up at? (2.) Where do the vacuum lines run from each port and where to? I have the T1 Vacuum Lines, in very good condition, and I'll give them to the party who walks me through this, and gets the (6) port vacuum block installed, for the shipping costs only. PM Me!

[firebaron90]

I made a little alum. bracket and mounted the block to the fuel rail.

[iloveshelbys]

i wouldnt think it matters what line goes on what port...its all coming from the same vac source ...no??...instead of having a big ugly line coming out of the intake with hoses running off of it..now you just hook the lines up to the vac block

[casey peak]

I have one & plan to mount to the firewall, I plan to run the stock plastic lines for things like: boost gauge, boost contoler, map sensor as I've heard that using rubber for these makes them unaccurate as the rubber flexes in & out w/ vacume & boost. I think I'll still run these items seperate for more accuracy as well. Anyone else heard/read this? Since my block is going to have some rubber lines on it, I plan to try to find strong, stiff hose that has minimum flex. wattayathink?

[malibuolds]

my distribution block is mounted directly on the intake next to the air charge sensor. right now i simply have vacuum lines running to the MAP, FPR, and wastegate. later i'll have one going to the boost gauge and another to the BOV. i don't have a pic of mine, but i basically copied the way my brother did it on his GLH....here is his:


left to right: source, FPR, MAP, plug, plug, BOV, boost controller (grainger valve), and vac/boost gauge on the end:



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Joshua Mitchell
'89 Lebaron GTS - T2/A555

[Turbo2 Guy]

Great setup and photo...one dumb question if I may...what about drilling into the intake... will the intake need to be removed for drilling into... or... can it be done on the engine? I am comcerned with the metal shavings dropping inside the intake and causing problems....what is your expertise on this??

[Timmay2]

I wondered the same. I was thinking about drilling mine while the engine was running so it could take the tiny aluminum shavings as they fell off and not all at once! LMAO! im stupid though so dont listen to me.

[malibuolds]

i'm not sure about drilling/tapping the hole, but i would guess you'd have to pull the intake off first. my brother and i are both using T2 intakes, so we didn't have to drill (already 2 holes there unlike late T1 intakes). i think my brother swapped the air charge sensor to the other hole next to it (same size) so the vacuum block would fit better.
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Joshua Mitchell
'89 Lebaron GTS - T2/A555

[casey peak]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo2 Guy Great setup and photo...one dumb question if I may...what about drilling into the intake... will the intake need to be removed for drilling into... or... can it be done on the engine? I am comcerned with the metal shavings dropping inside the intake and causing problems....what is your expertise on this??

I was going to use a one piece manfld at first so I drilled/tapped fpr the charge air sensor. The amount of shavings looked like it would do damage to engine. (I wouldn't do it) . I was thinking you could get them out with a magnet, but no--it's aluminum. It sucks how much work it is to take the intake off our cars.
Hey, maybe if you drilled most of the way until you were almost all the way through until it was like paper thin, & then punched a small hole in it & was able to pull the rest of the metal out in a small chunk. Even then, you wouldn't have a clean hole though. nevermind LOL!
malubuolds, I like how yours is mounted! You might have a copycat on your hands!

[malibuolds]

yeah that pic is actually my brother's setup (iTurbo's). i like it so much i'm doing exactly the same thing with my GTS right now i have a blue anodized block on mine (mounted on the left hole), but i will be ordering a black 6-port distribution block soon from McMaster Carr that will be mounted on the right hole like my brother's is. i'll try to get a pic posted of my current blue distribution block later but iTurbo's looks better IMO.
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Joshua Mitchell
'89 Lebaron GTS - T2/A555

[firebaron90]

Here is my install. the stand attaches using the fuel rail bolt. You need to service the fuel rail....it comes off.

Joe

[Timmay2]

Tapping the hole is where youll get alot of shavings in the hole.. vs the drilling.. yep do it while its off the car. or just replace the vacuum nipple with the sensor.

[Turbo2 Guy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebaron90 Here is my install. the stand attaches using the fuel rail bolt. You need to service the fuel rail....it comes off. Joe

Hey Joe...I like your setup...no worry about drilling into the intake and metal shavings. What did you mean by... "You will need to service the fuel rail, it comes off "? Looks like you used a high-strength apoxy to mount the bracket onto the Vacuum Block?

Chuck

[firebaron90]

I am sorry, I posted that from work, so my brain was frazzled. What I ment was: It uses the bolt that holds the fuel rail down. so all you do is un do that bolt and it sits on top of the fuel rail mount. So unluke the other sets ups, which are nice BYW, this one can be remove very easily to service the fuel injectors, etc. I ised stailless steel allen cap screws to hold the block on the stand. I just drilled and tapped them, and used teflon tape to seal the threads. The item i used for the stand is a universal spark plug wire loom for a V-8. They cost like 5.00 for two of them in the "crome" section of autozone, etc....just use a good saw to cut the ears of the loom off, and you basicall have a square section the with of the vac block. then bens it as shown, and it is done. THere is already a hole for the base to mount to the fuel rail. Took me 15 minutes.

The only thing will change on this is to try to move the block over to the driver's side more on the stand. As you can see, the main feed for the block is a hose nightmare....

Good luck!!

Joe

[Turbo2 Guy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebaron90 I am sorry, I posted that from work, so my brain was frazzled. What I ment was: It uses the bolt that holds the fuel rail down. so all you do is un do that bolt and it sits on top of the fuel rail mount. So unluke the other sets ups, which are nice BYW, this one can be remove very easily to service the fuel injectors, etc. I ised stailless steel allen cap screws to hold the block on the stand. I just drilled and tapped them, and used teflon tape to seal the threads. The item i used for the stand is a universal spark plug wire loom for a V-8. They cost like 5.00 for two of them in the "crome" section of autozone, etc....just use a good saw to cut the ears of the loom off, and you basicall have a square section the with of the vac block. then bens it as shown, and it is done. THere is already a hole for the base to mount to the fuel rail. Took me 15 minutes. The only thing will change on this is to try to move the block over to the driver's side more on the stand. As you can see, the main feed for the block is a hose nightmare.... Good luck!! Joe

Great idea...thanks, Joe...I have some super strength apoxy..I got from the Dodge dealership. It's a two plastic syringe type mixture...Once it dries one will have to break off the part before it gives. I think I will use this stuff to apoxy the wire loom onto the Vacuum Block....and then use your procedure afterwards. Great stuff Joe.......again...many thanks from this end....WOW...what a great site we have here....and I am extremely impressed with the Turbo knowledge, and assistance from the members... I have seen here..........Chuck