OK, I promised some folks on a thread that I would give some pics of my install and some pointers on how I think it could have gone better. sorry if the files are large, but this is not really my thing.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic1.JPG
This is a view of the piping. Much grinding was done to the rad support inorder to find the best way for me to get it in there Therefore, there is not a lot of rad support left in my car, but it functions just the same.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic2.JPG
Here is a good shot of it from the front. Note the filter stuck directly behind the rad. It BARELY fit in there. It is actually sitting on a 45* bend which tilted it just so that the hood will close without contacting it. The HKS BOV is not in the ideal position. It is welded to 2" pipe because I picked the setup for cheap off of ebay. Also not ideal. I will state what will become a re-occuring theme of the fact that if there was a TII rad out of an 89 tona in the car, the project would have been much easier. The filter would have been able to go right to the front and the piping would have been able to go from the turbo to the pass side.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic3.JPG
This pic shows how the IC sits directly behind the front bumper. Once again not ideal, but it is the only place I could put it securely without having to relocate the battery. Note the bracket which is holding it up. It was made from flattened angle iron with holed predrilled in it that I picked up from home depot. There is also some 2 1/4in. ID hose that had been slipped over the bracket to protect the IC from rubbing, and hold it more securely.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic4.JPG
Here is a shot of the angle iron that I bolted to the front of the rad support area, which serves as a shelf for the IC to sit on.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic4.JPG
An under side view of the IC and bracketry. Note that there is not a bracket on the drivers side of the car as there is about a 1/4 in of clearance between the IC and bumper on that side. However the stock brackets on the IC were cround to fit around the bumper post on that side, and the bumper post bolts are holding that side in place.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic6.JPG
View of the driver side tubing from the turbo to the IC. I had to remove the cruise to get it in there.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic7.JPG
This pic shows how closely the pass side pipe is to the alt bracket. NOTE: I put the IC in with the first sections of pipe already attached which worked out great until I blew off the hose at the IC right here. I had to pull off the alt. and bracket to get the hose back on. I ground down the braket quite a bit to make room for the pipe to be installed with the front of the car on, and it has made all the difference, although I have only blown that pipe off once more. Save yourself the 2+ hours and grind the bracket while you have the car apart the first time.
http://personalwebs.oakland.edu/~bwc...motive/ic8.JPG
Pic of the front of the car with the cooler installed. Also a pic of every thing that had to be removed about 100 times for the install. Bumper cover, bumper, drivers side bumper support, rad, grill, headlights, and other odds and ends where removed for this project. Very stealthy, but not as effiecient as it could be. There is enough room under there to make a duct that would route air to the IC.
Based on the fact that I believe I can wedge the cooler between the headlights with some grinding here is what could be done differntly to make a world of difference.
1. dont be lazy and move the battery to the pass side where the capor canister used to be. This would allow the drivers side IC inlet to have a way to the TB.
2. Run a rad out of an 89 TII tona which would have allowed me to move the IC over several inches there by clearing the battery in the sock location. Air would come out of the turbo across the car, and in over the alternator.
TurboDodge.com 
