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Engine - Turbo Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output.

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Old 11-12-2005, 04:02 PM   #1
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i have an 88 lebaron gts 2.2 turbo automatic. if i grainger it to 12psi, will the computer know to compensate with enough fuel, or will it only give enough fuel for the stock 7 psi.
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Old 11-12-2005, 04:13 PM   #2
 
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A stock calibration will supply enough fuel for up to boost cutout, on most cases.

I had an 89 Sundance. The only two modifications I did to it was install an aftermarket fuel pump and add a manual boost control valve (bypassing the stock boost control).

I ran up to 14 psi of boost with no problems at all.


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Old 11-12-2005, 04:47 PM   #3
 
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how would i kno if my fuel pump is good enough to run 12 psi.
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Old 11-12-2005, 05:28 PM   #4
 
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you need to get an A/F gauge. If you try to boost more than stock without one, you are asking for trouble. It should not be a problem to run 12psi, but you don't know unless you have the gauge.
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Old 11-12-2005, 05:31 PM   #5
 
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ok thanks im looking into one now. lol i just unhooked the vacuum line to wastegate actuator so the it would boost to shutdown. i opened up on the road keeping it at about 10 or 11 psi. man it really pulls now with the full exhaust.
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Old 11-12-2005, 07:04 PM   #6
 
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when i make the grainger valve, instead of just having to adjust from inside the engine compartment, could i just make the vacuum lines really long and run them inside the car, so i adjust the boost on the fly?
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Old 11-12-2005, 07:22 PM   #7
 
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I think you can have the g-valve in the cabin, but I wouldnt really want to fiddle with it while I was driving. You have to undo it, tighten it, then screw down the locking peice again. I'm going to have a 2 stage setup, 6psi and whatever the g-valve is set at using a solenoid. If you setup a bleed, you can easily adjust it from in the cabin, but then you loose the spool up benefits of the g-valve. I'm sure you've seen them, but if you check out dempsey or gus' pages theres lots of info on boost controllers. If I've read what you wrote right, it will pull significantly harder under full throttle with 11psi (since the only way you could keep 11 or 12 with the wg line unplugged is to feather the throttle) : D. Be carefull, I nearly blew up my vans engine doing that on thurdsday. Thought I had a boost leak somewhere, figured if I disconnected the line it'd go up and stay somewhere if it was a leak, and if not'd it'd be fun to try. Hit the throttle 3...4...5... *look at road* 16171819 *eep!*.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:08 PM   #8
 
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I'm currently running 17 psi with stock t2 injectors, stock t2 intercooler, stock fuel pump & no problems at all. I did make an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from the stocker, it's cranked up to 55 psi (with the vac line disconnected to set it). I also have an auto gage a/f ratio guage, & an auto gage 30 psi boost guage. These 2 are very crucial to tuning. The stock fuel pressure reg was fine to 12-14psi. Reading plugs is also crucial & learning how to increase 1psi of boost at a time, then checking the vitals. I also have an adlustable cutout raiser. All my mods are along the lines of Gus, Donovan, Dempsey, etc. I would advise against the long vac/boost lines to go to the cab, as this has been proven to cause boost spike. I have been successful with the 2-stage solenoid set up. I have a switch wired up for a low setting of 7 psi, the high side diconnects vac/boost to the wastegate for 17psi. I only use the low setting for when the wife drives my car. All of this with the stock t1 88 SMEC
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:03 PM   #9
 
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so when i grainger it to 12 psi, the computer will kno that it is at 12 psi. right. so it will add more fuel.
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Old 11-13-2005, 01:37 PM   #10
 
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so does anyone know if when i add the grainger valve that the computer will add more fuel to support about 12 psi?
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Old 11-13-2005, 01:42 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachbum3478
so when i grainger it to 12 psi, the computer will kno that it is at 12 psi. right. so it will add more fuel.

Correct!!!!!!!!!

The map sensor is good to 14.7 psi of boost.

As long as you don't go into overboost or superceede the map sensor's range, you'll be with enough fuel.

As stated earlier, I ran a MBC on an otherwise completely stock Sundance TI with no ill effects up to 14 psi of boost.


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Old 11-13-2005, 02:06 PM   #12
 
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yep i have a intercooled and 3" mandrel bent side exit exaist manual boosted at 12 psi. running great gana eventually get it to 13.
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:32 PM   #13
 
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I would also suggest an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well. While the computer can support boost up to 14.7 psi (2 bar), a t-1 computer has no provision for a charge air temperature sensor. With the intercooler, you air temperature going into you intake will be lower than ambient now, so there will be more air per cubic inch of volume, and your computer will not compenstate for that, hence you may run lean, depending on weather.

Also, since winter is approaching, it is much colder now, and since the computer is programed with air fuel tables based on average ambient air temp ( i think it is 70 deg) you will run even more lean.
The adj fuel pressure reg will allow you to add more fuel during climate changes, and further tune your car.

It is a wise investment.

Joe
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:54 PM   #14
 
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one last question, i was looking the diagram on gus mahons site, and it shows that the vac line doesnt even go to map sensor anymore, it just loops from the turbocharger nipple then to the wastegate acutator, with the g valve in the middle, so how will the map sensor know how much psi the car is running?
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:17 PM   #15
 
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the map sensor runs to the barometric syl. which is conncted to a vacum source. the wastegate syl. is the only thing that should get bypassed.
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