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12-09-2005, 09:14 AM
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#1
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Enforcer II Rebuild. TB03 kit?
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I'm going to attempt my first DIY turbo rebuild on the used enforcer II turbo I just bought. I found a really good deal on a tb03 rebuild kit that includes:
2 journal bearings
1 piston ring turbine side
1 thrust bearing
1 shaft nut
1 compressor housing gasket
1 o ring for back plate
4 retaining rings for journal bearings
1 4 piece carbon seal assembly
I've got 2 questions before I go ahead and order the kit.
First, is there any difference in the center section (bearings, seals, etc) between the Enforcer II and a stock tb03?
Second, does this sound like everything I'll need to do the rebuild?
Thanks in Advance,
Tony
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12-09-2005, 12:21 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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if you know how to balance it after you put it all back together it sounds like that you would need. the enforcer i dont know is the same tho
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12-09-2005, 02:57 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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the enforcer turbo has the standard t3 center section(chra?), anyway i dont know much on rebuilding them, but you should find a local shop to balance it, or youll be at it again, its only a matter of time. have you called and talked to chris at tu? not sure if its in your budget or downtime, but im sure he would take care of it for you and even get a warranty.  plus you know its done right.
good buy btw, if i had the funds i would have snagged it up. i enjoyed the short time i ran that turbo, when i had mine.
good luck
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12-09-2005, 03:07 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Canada
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by mo' parts
the enforcer turbo has the standard t3 center section(chra?), anyway i dont know much on rebuilding them, but you should find a local shop to balance it, or youll be at it again, its only a matter of time. have you called and talked to chris at tu? not sure if its in your budget or downtime, but im sure he would take care of it for you and even get a warranty.  plus you know its done right.
good buy btw, if i had the funds i would have snagged it up. i enjoyed the short time i ran that turbo, when i had mine.
good luck
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So what happened with the turbo?
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12-09-2005, 03:17 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i ended up selling it and bought a t3/t4 hybrid with the full t4 cover a short time later.
in other words, i upgraded  LOL
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12-10-2005, 01:37 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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That's what I was worried about. I guess there's no way to tell without pulling it apart to mic the shaft. I really hate to do that and then wait several days for the kit to get here. I'd rather do it all at once to lessen the chance of something getting misplaced or damaged. As for the balancing, I was under the impression that it wasn't necessary to rebalance unless you're changing wheels, or you have one that was balanced as an assembly and forgot to mark it before you took it apart.
Thanks,
Tony
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12-10-2005, 05:59 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thanks Chris.
I ran across those threads while doing a little research right after I made my last post. Still, I gotta try. If for no other reason than just for the learning experience and to say I've done it.
If it doesn't work out, or doesn't last long, it'll be headed your way to get a proper rebuild.
While I'm thinking about this, does anybody know if I need a kit with a carbon seal or a dynamic seal?
Thanks,
Tony
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12-11-2005, 09:22 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by cordes
There really is not much to lose to just pull out the turbine shaft. Just put the bolts back in the housings so you dont lose them. If you have a problem losing the housings, then I would hate to see your collection of spare car keys.
Seriously, it is not too intimidating once you get it apart for the first time. Of course, I still have not had to put one back together yet.
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Uhh. I'm still trying to track down the spare cylinder head that I know I brought with me when I moved here summer before last.
I'm going to go ahead and pull it apart before I order the rebuild kit so I can check to see which type of seal it has and measure the shaft to know for sure I'm getting the right bearings.
While I'm thinking about it, would a digital caliper be accurate enough to check the shaft?
Thanks,
Tony
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12-12-2005, 12:24 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by tonyz2897
Uhh. I'm still trying to track down the spare cylinder head that I know I brought with me when I moved here summer before last.
I'm going to go ahead and pull it apart before I order the rebuild kit so I can check to see which type of seal it has and measure the shaft to know for sure I'm getting the right bearings.
While I'm thinking about it, would a digital caliper be accurate enough to check the shaft?
Thanks,
Tony
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As long as you are using a quality caliper that goes out to .001, it should not matter wether it is digital or analog.
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12-12-2005, 04:02 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Cool. I just bought this little bugger last night so I haven't had the chance to lose it or the instructions yet.
The specs say resolution is .0005in. and accuracy is +- .001.
Seems like a pretty decent instrument, and as soon as I get the turbine housing bolts loose so I can pull the turbo apart, I'll put it to good use.
Thanks,
Tony
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12-12-2005, 04:10 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by tonyz2897
Cool. I just bought this little bugger last night so I haven't had the chance to lose it or the instructions yet.
The specs say resolution is .0005in. and accuracy is +- .001.
Seems like a pretty decent instrument, and as soon as I get the turbine housing bolts loose so I can pull the turbo apart, I'll put it to good use.
Thanks,
Tony
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Incase you had not planned on it, I would bust out the map gas to remove the bolts on the turbine housing, as they will probably need it.
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12-12-2005, 04:58 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charleston, WV
My Ride: '88 Sundance
Engine: '89 2.5 TI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I've got an oxy/fuel setup for the heating. Problem is, I'm out of oxygen. I think Tractor Supply does bottle exchanges, so I'm going to load mine up and haul it in shortly. Hopefully I'll have it apart later tonight.
Tony
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12-17-2005, 01:25 PM
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#15
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Spokane WA
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I've rebuilt a few turbos, really easy actually as long as you don't break the retainer spring. If it is an old wasted turbo it's no use, send it in. An E2 turbo is a new Turbonetics turbo, they're fairly new and worthy of a home rebuild. In each post you see from TU he says that it could need a rebalance from damage. Which is why you send in an old turbo. But if you freshen a newer rebuild or turbo the damage is likely not to be there. Now it doesn't mean the original balance wasn't screwed and that’s why the newer turbo failed, very possible. But the fact remains, you rebuild a turbo and it will have the same balance it had when you took it apart. If it was done right, you can freshen it without troubles. Most turbos found in a yard are beat on 20 year old turbos, those are not worthy of a rebuild. Have an original turbo that works great but is getting some play in it? Rebuild it your self, you have a great chance it's still in good shape. The main shafts on a turbo get hit with all of the heat and get brittle. People that turn down shafts and balancing beat up crap and sending it out need to be watched. I've personally witnessed a returned, rebuilt turbo that cost the $300 from a vender on here that had bent blades. Then you look at the turbine that they rebalanced and it looked like some ones leg after a shark bit it off. It was painted and sent out, "good turbo". Any turbine that needs allot of rebalancing like that needs to be replaced. Like Chris at TU said himself, "if it has been damaged it needs rebalancing" of course to compensate for the damage right?!?! Look close at any turbo you pay allot to rebuild and ask your self if that totally chewed up rebalanced turbine should still be there. A good turbine needs a little touch up on the turbine shaft, I've seen them look like a totem pole!
Rob
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