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Engine - Turbo Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output.

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Old 12-17-2005, 12:55 PM   #1
T2 wastegate specific?  
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I think I need a wastegate, but I'm not 100% sure yet. I'm running the stock T2 Garrett turbo, so I know I need the larger wastegate can. Was this can used on any other cars (T1's)?
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Old 12-17-2005, 01:09 PM   #2
 
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You can use a T1 wastegate can on a T2 turbo, I've done it. You have to rotate the housing a little bit to get the can to clear the intake manifold, and I don't think you can install it with the turbo in the car like you could if it were a real T2 can, as it bolts onto the back of the compressor housing, not the front like a real T2 does. Oh, and it has to be an '85-'87 T1 can.. '88+ T1's are Mitsu turbo's.. Completely different.
Not all T2's got the big can.. '86-'88 got small cans.. Only '89 got big can..
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Old 12-17-2005, 03:48 PM   #3
 
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you can test your can by running the actuator straight off manifold pressure, search it. easily done. if it is going, shimming the actuator with a couple washers will get you by until you replace it.
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Old 12-17-2005, 04:42 PM   #4
 
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I had to shim the T2 wastegate actuator (small can) on my Horizon with 4 headbolt washers.. Crazy!
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Old 12-17-2005, 06:28 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Una
I had to shim the T2 wastegate actuator (small can) on my Horizon with 4 headbolt washers.. Crazy!
crazy for real, 1 head bolt washer got me well past where I wanted to be, like 20+ psi with a completely backed out g-valve. had to switch to normal washers.
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Old 12-17-2005, 07:31 PM   #6
 
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I can go as low as 6psi, and I've been up to 14.4 where I have my cutout set at..
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:39 PM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Una
I can go as low as 6psi, and I've been up to 14.4 where I have my cutout set at..
you're talking 2 head bolt washers on each side, 4 total, right? that can has GOT to be shot out.
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:49 PM   #8
 
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Small can alone is usually good for 14psi.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:11 PM   #9
 
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Yeah, without any washers, the flap would have been flapping in the breeze. One washer (1 per bolt) and it was just about holding the flap closed. Two washers got some preload pressure on the flap. Can't imagine how bad the lag would have been with that thing flapping in the breeze.
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Old 12-19-2005, 11:31 AM   #10
 
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Now that you mention it, it does seem like my turbo takes a while to spool. You guys are putting shims where the can mounts to the turbo, right?

My actual problem is that at more the 1/2 throttle, the car boosts past where it should. I'm using a 2 bar map, with a FWD perf. LM controling the boost at 14.7 PSI. In 1st and 2nd gear, the car runs 16 PSI, 3rd is 17 PSI, 4th is 18-19 PSI, and 5th runs 20+ PSI. Very fun, but bad for the motor to only be getting fuel for 14.7 PSI. The car acts normal at less than 1/2 throttle, limiting boost to between7-9 PSI depending on conditions. But once the LM sees WOT, the car does not limit itself. Could this be the wastegate solenoid?
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:49 PM   #11
 
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be super careful with that...not having enough fuel in that situation can do damage quickly from the detonation you'll get.

check your vacuum lines...if there's no restrictor in the line from manifold to wastegate control (before the solenoid), you'll get brief spiking. if it is more than a spike (sounds like it), might be an incorrectly routed line - it is real easy to have a problem if a line was accidentally switched. I don't recommend shimming the actuator unless there's a complete lack of boost, both at part throttle or WOT (sounds like Una could tell you about it!). to check the solenoid:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/solenoids.html

otherwise, reach out to Cindy and make sure everything is as it should be with your calibration. on a blind guess, I would say vacuum lines are the issue. if the LM's boost curve simply isn't aggressive enough, a g-valve would be the next move. make sure the lines are good before you do anything else.
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:20 PM   #12
 
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It's really hard for a custom cal to control the boost properly. You'd really be better off running a grainger valve. 14.7psi is the absolute limit of the 2 bar map sensor. So to the computer, 20psi looks the same as 14.7psi.. Really dangerous to set it that high, I don't even do that on my own cars.
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Old 12-22-2005, 02:09 PM   #13
 
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I talked to Cindy about it, and she sent me a new LM to try to fix it. Still nothing. I've double and triple checked the vac lines, and everything is correct. Solenoid going out I think, but I have to check it using the link provided above.
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