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Engine - Turbo Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output.

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Old 03-06-2006, 03:34 PM   #16
 
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also what would be the best turbo for say 350-400 hp?
actually would this be too much i want to be able to dominate at most types of motorsports but i also want a streetable car as well. any suggestions?
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:26 PM   #17
 
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350 out of a 3.0 single turbo...is well alot. How big of a turbo are you looking at? Your boost wont kick in till higher RPMs that way...personally a medium sized turbo is good...depending on how early you want your boost. The bigger the turbo the higher RPms its going to take...however you can develop more horse...obviously. I'd like my turbo to boost around 3000-3500...thats fairly ideal. I have a question of my own though for anyone who might know. If you turbo the 3.0 what about the computer? Add boost...do i need to mess with my computer at all? Is it fine how it is?
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:55 PM   #18
 
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a drag strip only turbo for a 2.2-2.5 is a great street turbo for a 3.0 hehe.

You need to figure out your own fuel setup because the stock computer wont add fuel.
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:12 AM   #19
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I'm adding the term " 6G72 " (the 3.0 V-6 factory designation) to any posts I make in V-6 topics so the search thing can find them. You all should do it too.

As for adding fuel to a turbo V-6 for boost, I'd think that a few pressure switches and 7th, 8th, and 9th injectors could do the job, if you don't mind wires going all over the place in the engine bay.
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Old 03-13-2006, 02:30 AM   #20
 
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True, but that seems a rather crude way of doing it. Ideally one would be running a computer programmed with the correct spark and fuel curves to run boost. It sucks that standalone systems tend to be rather expensive.
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Old 03-14-2006, 01:04 AM   #21
 
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So basically....do i need to do anything to the computer? Perhaps i worded the question wrong. I know how i want things set up now...know what i need...just my question is what problems with the computer pose? if any?
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:15 AM   #22
 
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lets move this to the 3.0 turbo forum.

Im working on my megasquirt system right now so I can stop using my rising rate regulator some day.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:47 AM   #23
 
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i am also working on a turbo setup for the 3.0L. here's where i have mine mounted. the probelm i'm having now is clearence. then again, i did decide on a larger turbo... so i have to have some pipes made for the compressor side of the turbo to clear the brake booster. it is cross-over mounted.

[img]http://www.****************/forums/photopost/data/500/229772_154_full.jpg[/img]
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:53 AM   #24
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Has anyone tried to put the turbo behind the engine, like on a 4 cylinder? All 6 cylinders would go to it, there might be enough room for it, stock manifolds would work (except where the turbo bolts on), and maybe it would work. I don't know if it would be too low for the oil drainback to work right, though.
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Old 03-14-2006, 03:24 PM   #25
 
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Daytonastein's is mounted behind the engine...nice setup...however i still like a crossover mount oh and nice setup on the shadow by the way.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:41 PM   #26
 
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Daytonastein has the turbo behind the engine. This location makes turbo removal a LOT easier than on the 4-cyl. (as does the crossover tube mounting...)
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Old 03-14-2006, 06:21 PM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_K
Has anyone tried to put the turbo behind the engine, like on a 4 cylinder? All 6 cylinders would go to it, there might be enough room for it, stock manifolds would work (except where the turbo bolts on), and maybe it would work. I don't know if it would be too low for the oil drainback to work right, though.

I've already modified a rear manifold with a turbo flange. The turbo will physically fit, when it's mounted with the turbine outlet pointing towards the passenger side. However, the turbo's drain sits too low for proper drainback into the oil pan. If you did this, you would have to install a sump and pump in the oil drain line to get it back into the oil pan. If you don't, you'll blow the seals of the turbo.

I've also noted that the turbo will properly drain if the turbine outlet is pointed towards the drivers side. However, there's two major issues to contend with this way. The turbine/swingvalve/downpipe is just about on the manual transmission cables. And there isn't enough room to fit the turbo in a car. It will fit in a van. But to make it fit in a car, you'd have to "message" the firewall with a BFH.







Wink

Last edited by mwinkle353; 03-14-2006 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:14 PM   #28
 
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Wink you could always have tipped up the flange a little bit to get the turbo a bit higher if there is room after massaging.

The Shifter cables can be removed, and you can drill new holes and just have them go through the firewall higher up. My spirit conversion has the cables much higher then stock.
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:28 PM   #29
 
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I've been looking into this turbo 3.0 thing for some time now. Reversing the intake as interested me. So does the intake stay mounted like stock and the plenum get turned 180? Is that easy to do with spacers? or are there further modifications required? I have a megasquirt currently running my 2.2 turbo 2. When I decide to put together a 3.0 (hopefully this summer) I'm going to go with a megasquirt 2.2 with extra code and I want to run EDIS 6 on it. I'm a little unsure about how to mount the pickup wheel on the damper though. I dont have a 3.0 in my garage to play with yet. I'm going to buy a junkyard 3.0 to experiment with in my garage.
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:30 PM   #30
 
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Well the EDIS should be easy to mount when it comes to the trigger wheel, etc.

To flip the Plenum, all you need are spacers to clear the distributor, and then just extend the wiring harness for a few sensors.
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