Turbo'd Slant 6 apparently has no turbo??

[greendog]

ive got a slanty and was toying with this idea..and first thing i did dwas calculate engine sizes to give a ruff idea of what size turbo would be needed...and everything led to useing either a single v6 unit or 2 mitsu's...also toyed with running a super off of a gm v6..even started to plumb it up..but descided $ for $ i should just swap in the 273 i had laying on the floor with 60k original miles.

something to keep in mind ..is that these slants can and will hapily run a 4BRL carb without much complaints..trying to force feed thru a 1brl is NOT WISE...even a 2brl from a super six is not going to feed it well enuf..and many mild/wild performance slantys run holley 390s and carter 425's...i ran a carter 525 on mine for some time...yes it was rich but i think with a turbo and or super it would have leaned out perfectly..your going to want to rethink your cam ..since the stock one is NOT going to keep up

[sandy2.5]

hey guys, he asked about why it's not making boost, not what turbo to use or what cams he's needing.

check wastegate, make sure rod is attached properly (don't laugh) and try spinning the turbo by hand. if all that works, it should be spinning. if it's still not spinning and everything seems fine there, try swapping the WGA.

beyond that, i'm lost.

[finnman1]

that's fine, i realized i needed to drive it to see boost.


but..... looks like i won't be doing a draw-thru after all.
funny i should find this tidbit of info after everythings said and done and the car runs...
well, ive found out the oil leak source, it's the turbine seal. it isnt good for drawthru setups... it will only work if i buy a $$$ carbon seal and dissasemble everything and put it in. lord knows how to do that. i've completely run out of money. evidently the T03 is a 'piston type' and the vacuum from the engine pulls the oil past it. the setup just wont work without oil getting everywhere.
so, i dont know if i should attempt a blow-thru, or just drop a 360 or 400 B block into it. wish i knew where to find one.

i wonder what should i do?? i've just about lost ALL motivation after hearing this seal plate crap. since, the oil was getting sucked past the seal, i suppose that means that the seal's crap now, and it needs to be rebuilt anyways right? please tell me im wrong

[speedyshelby16]

I know where I can get a whole dodge van 80's with a very good running 360 in for 200 bucks with a clear title.

[JeremyL]

Find yourself an early T1 turbo off a draw-thru setup car.

[Ondonti]

blow through is nice but you need to mod the carb to take boost, or build a box around the carb to contain pressure all aroudn the carb.

[Turbofreak]

ok, instead of throwing away your entire setup.... do this!!!

Find an early 80's (1980-83) buick 3.8L V6 carbureted turbo.....

Both of these were carbureted draw-through setups that sucked air and fuel through the quadra jet carburetor... but you can adapt a setup and draw through a holley or carter or whatever....

this will give you a turbo that will work with fuel sweeping past the seals... it is made for draw through...

you can get these cheap in the junkyard or online...

Don't give up!!!!

RYNO

[finnman1]

well, i just got off the line w/ turbocity, they said the T1's have a factory carbon seal plate. so maybe the jackoff who rebuilt the turbo before put in a cheap dynamic seal... i guess my $80 turbo isn't $80 after all.
$108 for the kit. $175 for the total rebuild kit. or $275 for them to totally rebuild it with the correct seal plate and all misc.
i don't think i want to go blowthru. i have access to a 2bbl super six intake setup, but still, the carb won't like the boost. same thing with a 4bbl $200 intake. plus i need the ease of use with draw-thru tuning. i've got the gm v-6 turbo yet... the blade's/shaft are way loose, bearings are probably crap. i don't know if I should rebuild that and hook that up, or rebuild the T1. it'd be soooooo much easier w/ the T1 because ALL the plumbing is already set up. i really don't want to re-plumb the GM turbo.
I know that the GM turbo is better for my setup. i don't need anyone to tell me that for the 300th time. but i think the T1 will work. with the quality of gas octane around here, i dont think i could raise the boost that high anyways nomatter what turbo i had, so i don't think the GM turbo would be needed. i'd like to just drop in that 360 mentioned (thanks), but there's the rearend needs changing -> new brake lines, radiator, torsion bars, custom driveshaft... on and on, etc...
options, options, no money.. what should i do??

[Phreakish]

run the turbo the way it is... sometimes oil gets in there from other places and makes you THINK you have a problem. I doubt you do.

If it blows smoke like crazy, you have a problem, if all the smoke is from your tires, you have no problem

I always have a little oil here 'n there, always chasing leaks and usually they're coming from elsewhere, but they accumulated in the oddest of places...

[DaytonaTurbo87]

I'd go for the buick turbo and just sell your current turbo. Sure you'll need to replumb, but the buick turbo is better for your engine size, and it'll flow more cfm's of air than the garrett at the same boost pressure. Don't give up man!

But if you just want to ditch the slanted setup, I'd say drop in a 318 or 360, which ever you can get a better motor for a better price. Then stick on a set of magnum heads from a 92+ 318 or 360(92+ used the same heads). The 92+ heads can easily be had out of the junkyard for cheap, and far far outflow any other small block head produced by mopar over the years. Only catch is you need to use different lifters and pushrods, and you need to redrill either the heads or your intake if you want to use an older style (pre 92) intake. Couple that with a set of hedman hedders, an el cheapo $60 summit cam, stock type spread bore intake and grab a thermoquad and rebuild it on the cheap and you'll have a pretty potentent setup there. But to dump a small block in your car you will either need to swap k members(a large PITA) or buy the conversion mounts from engine-swaps.com I've got a set for my satellite to go from 318->440, but they cost a few $$$. I saved a bit by getting them used, but still not cheap. Personally, I kinda wish I wouldda kept my old slant 6 dart so I could have done a turbo project on it like you are planning for yours. Just rebuild a buick turbo, replumb to fit and call it a day. That t1 garrett is too small for your motor anyway so why waste more money and time into it? If you still do the t1 garrett, you will be regretting it later because you will know better performance could have been had out of the bigger turbo. Just my $.02.

[Turbofreak]

Quote:

Originally Posted by finnman1 well, i just got off the line w/ turbocity, they said the T1's have a factory carbon seal plate. so maybe the jackoff who rebuilt the turbo before put in a cheap dynamic seal... i guess my $80 turbo isn't $80 after all. $108 for the kit. $175 for the total rebuild kit. or $275 for them to totally rebuild it with the correct seal plate and all misc. i don't think i want to go blowthru. i have access to a 2bbl super six intake setup, but still, the carb won't like the boost. same thing with a 4bbl $200 intake. plus i need the ease of use with draw-thru tuning. i've got the gm v-6 turbo yet... the blade's/shaft are way loose, bearings are probably crap. i don't know if I should rebuild that and hook that up, or rebuild the T1. it'd be soooooo much easier w/ the T1 because ALL the plumbing is already set up. i really don't want to re-plumb the GM turbo. I know that the GM turbo is better for my setup. i don't need anyone to tell me that for the 300th time. but i think the T1 will work. with the quality of gas octane around here, i dont think i could raise the boost that high anyways nomatter what turbo i had, so i don't think the GM turbo would be needed. i'd like to just drop in that 360 mentioned (thanks), but there's the rearend needs changing -> new brake lines, radiator, torsion bars, custom driveshaft... on and on, etc... options, options, no money.. what should i do??

The buick turbo will not be that much horribly different than the old TI turbo, just have it rebuilt and do it... at $275 + $100 for modding the setup to work with it, it will far outflow the little TI, and yes, the TI will work, but you are going to be making the a worse engineering match with the TI to a 225C.I. than chrysler did to a 2.5L with a mitsu turbo....

I know you cannot build and fit the V8 to your setup for $400 that it would take to do the right turbo the correct way....

also, you might consider putting a heavy gauge mesh wire across the carburetor flange on the intake manifold where you are blowing the air-fuel mixture into it to break up laminar flow....

make a trapped gasket as such with this screen...

this is an easy way to fix a lot of distribution and atomization problems that draw through turbo setups create....

If you are only going to run 6-12psi of boost, you will never see more than 150hp on your slant.... but, if you went to the Buick turbo at 12psi, you could easily see 200-240hp.... if you single carb will feed that much fuel to the engine....

you may have to modify your main booster to increase it's sensitivity to airflow changes and modify it's main fuel passage to be larger to allow for more fuel flow when under boost....

probably be best to have a few carburetors to mod and work with to get it right....

another thing you could do to add fuel under boost is use a custom made spray bar under the carb or a nozzle (nitrous nozzle) and have a fuel solenoid on the system and run a fuel jet in the nozzle or plate-bar and cap off the nitrous side.... then you can jet the fuel up to adjust it correctly for the boost input that the carburetor cannot meter for... which is easier than re-engineering a carburetor (especially if you are not a carb pro)..

If you will just have a buddy with a wideband O2 sensor, you will be able to properly tune this setup, but without it, you will be hunting in the dark...

GOOD LUCK AND DON'T give up!!!!

You are almost done!!!!

RYNO

[Phreakish]

he COULD change turbos, but the T1 is already on there and he has no money. So FOR NOW, just run the T1 and learn about turbos I wouldn't worry bout the oil leak and just go have some fun and if it blows, then rebuild/install the buick turbo...

[DaytonaTurbo87]

just out of curiousity, you said you are running a 4bbl carb with your turbo setup, what kind of carb are you running??

[sandy2.5]

did you finally get it to make some boost? even if the oil is blowing past, it should still make SOME boost.

go to G-pop-shop on Ebay.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQf...3aMEFSQ3aMESOI

i bought a garrett T3 rebuild kit from them. make sure to get in contact with them. they'll send you step-by-step instructions on exactly what to do to rebuild your turbo. Excellent customer service, and it's everything you need. very nice.

if it comes down to having it rebuilt (not DIY)then look up Precision Turbo in indiana. i hear they'll rebuild garrett T3's for just over $200 including shipping, check them out.

[finnman1]

the carb's a 600 cfm vaccum seconday holley.
thanks for the idea about the wire mesh. make's sense i guess, as long as it's not too thinly placed together like a window screen.
no, i haven't got it to boost because i'd have to fabricate a throttle cable first, and if i may go with the Gran national turbo, then why do the extra hassle, the town cop wouldnt like to see my car w/ no bumpers/ headlights running around on the steet like a mosquito fogger much. i think ill put the 1 bbl on to get it to the paint shop, then opt with the larger turbo. i guess i dont see how 12 psi of boost from the larger turbo would add more ponies though. 12 psi is 12 psi right? anyways, if i'm going to rebuild the larger turbo in the long run, why not do it now and sell the T1 since it's in working order?
at least i THINK that's the plan for now.