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06-03-2006, 12:13 AM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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The coolant works after shutdown to keep the oil from vaporizing into a cokey rock.
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06-03-2006, 12:17 AM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
My Ride: 85 Charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I would use an active oil cooler with temp relay and a timer, if you go down that road.
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06-03-2006, 07:10 AM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by john1320
I would use an active oil cooler with temp relay and a timer, if you go down that road.
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Without the coolant to wick the excess heat away, the oil will still suffer the same fate eventually. After I run it hard and let the engine idle for a couple minutes the EGT's still read around 1000* back there. After shutting it down, with no coolant, the oil that didn't drain out completely would still cook. Unless you had active oil flow to the turbo after the engine was shut off.
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06-03-2006, 09:49 AM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: '89 2.5 Turbo Spirit
Engine: 2.5 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.920
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Just leave the stock coolant lines connected. Our design is superior to the DSMs and any other turbo car with no coolant lines in them. Don't try to improve something that doesn't need improving.
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06-03-2006, 03:16 PM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: oxnard california
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Tim_K
Just leave the stock coolant lines connected. Our design is superior to the DSMs and any other turbo car with no coolant lines in them. Don't try to improve something that doesn't need improving.
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Yeah man i hear ya  loud and clear....
I didn't intend to do anything of such. Just was curious about this and statrted to wonder why it was that way. Our system makes total sense. Especially if it's simple enough without getting in the way of anything. However, knowledge is infinite.....
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06-04-2006, 01:35 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Coked oil in the bearings/seals is probably the #1 reason a turbo fails.
Using dino oil without a water jacketed housing, this is fact. Even with a synthetic oil this will happen eventually. Water jacketed turbos last longer .. especially when synthetic oil is used.
Why you would defeat the center housings water cooling and/or recommend somebody else do this is beyond me.
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06-04-2006, 01:58 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Calgary Alberta
My Ride: 88 daytona pacifica
Engine: 2.2, t3/t4 fmic
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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it's not worth the very little clearence you will gain...the cooler that turbo stays the better
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06-04-2006, 04:31 PM
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#11
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Resident piston cracker
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CT
My Ride: 92gtc vert
Engine: 2.5 8v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.800
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by xrattiracer
I always remove the coolant lines as one of the first things if i work on a car. They get in the way, dont really help any, and create more points of failure.
The turbo will get along fine without them, and you wont even have to modify your driving style (cooldown period, etc) if you use a good synthetic oil (which you use already, right?).
as for the turbo timer, heres my thoughts: "a turbo timer is a device designed for the sole purpose of seperating a ricer and his money." 
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If it is a strip-only car then I would agree that the water cooling is uncessary.
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06-04-2006, 06:23 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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What I think is that this is just thermodynamics. The water section wicks heat away from the oil center. Take away the coolant jacket and the standing oil will cook. For longevity, the water/oil turbo is a better design because of this combined housing.
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