Howdy, New member w/ 89 5sp Turbo Spirit.. Ready for mods

[dean]

Well howdy all!!! First off thanks again to everyone for all of the information that I have gathered here and off the net. Well I am the new (month ago) owner of a 1989 dodge spirit es 5sp. I bought the car for 150 bucks... the Interior, suspension, drivetrain, motor/turbo seem to all be in great condition. The reason for the low price? Well it was hit by a car and deer with in the same week (first accident on the car via carfax) and me being a body guy, bought it to clean it up and make some money off of it.. Well after finding out that a turbo was under the hood (couple hours after buying it) I decided that I would finally tune up a turbo car instead of my usuall rotary engines.

Anywho here are my plans for the vehicle (after reading all of the websites for a month, I think I have an almost full understanging on how everything works.

First off, I got my boost gauge installed, need my a/f meter.
Then I would like to get rid of my balancing shafts and also add an intercooler VERY soon, then I will raise the boost to around 12-14psi

Then comes "stage 2"... after I get that all running good, I am planning on getting a 4.3v diode and hooking that up to my ground and varying voltage line on the map sensor so it will not shutdown the engine at boosts over 14.7.. but as I see it, after my boost goes above 14psi, my computer will be tricked out by my MAP sensor mod, So I plan on installing a cold start igjector that is controlled by an acutator that will turn it on when the actuator gets 15pounds of boost to it, then carefully tuning it to around 16-18 psi and maybee even adding a nos fogger to adjust more fuel.... My queston here is, do I put the injector on the intercooler line that is going to the the throttle body?

So does this sound like im choosing a good way to tune my car? Like I said, I know more about this car than most people that have had it for years now, with all my reaserch....... The only thing that I cant figure out is how i am going to get my computer to not lower the boost after ive been at wot for 10 seconds.. is there any cheap mods i can do... After 2 weeks of searchin, i found the mopar performance ecu that will do the job but its 350 bucks (twice the price of any other one of course :doh: )

So once again howdy and thanks everyone and also, give me any ideas or comments that you might have,
thanks again,
dean

[crazymadbastard]

l
Welcome aboard!
look up a grainger valve, this will let you set the boost- you can make one easily.

some great sites to read:

www.thedodgegarage.com
http://gusmahon.org/

http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/

[dean]

Thanks, planning on the g-valve, and those sites have been hit up by me daily for the last month or so lol.

[bfarroo]

Depending on how much money your planning on spending you many want to look into a custom cal from one of our vendors. You can get a cal,+40 injectors and a 3bar map and be on your way to 18lbs with an intercooler of corse. The cal gets rid of the overboost problem so no zenor diode and with the 3bar map the cal can read and adjust fuel up to 29lbs of boost. By then your probably going to need a new clutch to handle the HP though and the stock turbo is going to be pretty much maxed out. Should be a fun ride though. I've been contemplating a Spirit for a daily driver since having 3 daytonas isn't all that practical. Have fun

Benji

[talanthalus]

Welcome aboard. I'm relatively new HERE, but I've been around for a while in the Turbo Dodge world. I don't proclaim to know anything though, at least until my car is running properly, so I'm willing to agree with whatever they say (*points*).

...well...most of it...most of the time.

Good luck.

[tkelly27]

Welcome aboard! Someday I'd like to have a rotary engine, they sound so freaking cool!

Is it a good way to tune your car? No. Will it work? Is it cheap? Have there been people running safely with it for a long time? Yes, yes, and yes. Like bfarroo said, 3 bar with bigger injectors is the best way to go, but like you've found out, thats $300 + for the computer alone. BTW if you've got a grainger, the computer can no longer control your boost, so you don't need the new computer. I don't think it will even pull timing as long as your not detonating, just that the WG solenoid will be going crazy (not a big deal since its not attatched to anything).

Stick the extra injector as close to the throttle body as possible. Always run premium fuel above 11psi. Intercooler is manditory too, at 18psi the mitsu turbo is blowing a lot of hot air. Also, before you mess with the boost, do the exhaust, TD's love exhaust work.

[speeduphoria]

I will just add my 1/2 cent.
Exhaust 1st(cut it off if you want or just a free flowing mufler,no flowmaster,cat is personal preference but turbo cars are a little quieter because of the turbo being an exhaust restriction at crusing speeds.)
intercool it
up the boost to 14(the mitsu starts to blow hot air around this level)
then add fuel and up the boost more(or if you are planning on more in the future you may install alcky injection to kill 2 birds w/ one stone and maybe even hold out on the intercooler for a while)
or get a larger garret turbo instead

shim the swaybar a little for a more even pull

[dean]

Thanks alot everyone, im sure that my "staging" plans will change a lil between now and install... Im in a rut for time, but again thanks for takng the time to post your opinionts. I know the way that I have decided is not going to take full potential tuning wise, but unless I run into alot of money, ghetto rigging has always been my way of life (specially with rotarys.. there a lil ghetto to start with)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfarroo Depending on how much money your planning on spending you many want to look into a custom cal from one of our vendors. You can get a cal,+40 injectors and a 3bar map and be on your way to 18lbs with an intercooler of corse. The cal gets rid of the overboost problem so no zenor diode and with the 3bar map the cal can read and adjust fuel up to 29lbs of boost. By then your probably going to need a new clutch to handle the HP though and the stock turbo is going to be pretty much maxed out. Should be a fun ride though. I've been contemplating a Spirit for a daily driver since having 3 daytonas isn't all that practical. Have fun Benji

Benji, thanks... I was going to ask about the 3bar map, as ive seen it talked about befor, but had no idea what it was and I wont ask a question untill a week after I cant find the answer (stubborn lol)... I have seen on a website, i believe one of your sponsors, sells it for 50 bucks.. If I sell my bike w/ in the next week, I might just buy that and the cpu... but I really should be saving my money as I am a college student that pays all of my own bills (Im in debt over 4k not including the student loan. Id like to get the cpu and what not, but why is mine twice as much (mopar performanc cpu) than any other one? I have read that in my model they put the cpu by the air intake, and also integrated something (cpu orented)that was in the interior but on mine they were combined.. is that why mine is so much?.. I would pay 150 for a cpu but over 300 just seems like im getting ripped, are there any vendors you guys know that make their own cpu (not mopar performance) that is cheaper and does the same job? BTW, is there any way I can bypass the ten second full boost thing on my cpu, or is buying a performance one, the only way I can run a quarter mile without having excuses LOL

[sgt rj]

bypass the wastegate solenoid and get a granger