stock turbo, worth it to stick on a .63 turbine housing?

[saw wave analog]

what turbo are you on, what are you using for a tune, and what are your short times?

while traction is my number one issue, the car would have easily been in the 12's last year on slicks, i also have a really shitty tune.. +20's, 255, glhs stg 2 and 2 bar map. i am sure the car loses a lot from that.. well see.. im converting to megasquirt as we speak

id also like to convert to auto as im sure that would work better with this low revving torquey engine, but being poor means the mods come slow

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Alto One thing that helped my Omni launch, I made 1.5" spacers that go under the rear springs on the strut. So when the strut was installed, the spring was compressed already. Raised up the back an inch or so, and really prevents it from squatting too much when I take off. I was looking at making 2" spacers this spring and see if I can stiffen it up a little more. Saw wave, your cars setup is almost identical as mine, except I run an auto trans and a Spearco. I'm running the same time, on 16 psi though.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by beyond_audio the track here in edmonton will lay down vht. or atleast they did a few years ago. that stuff is so sticky it will suck the shoe off your foot

They won't do it here except for the Pro's and they sometimes put it down for the Outlaw class at the street legals.

[beyond_audio]

old school trick is to have sprayers that coat your tires hidden inside your fender wells as you roll onto the launch pad. the stuff is very messy tho.

[Keith Alto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by saw wave analog what turbo are you on, what are you using for a tune, and what are your short times? while traction is my number one issue, the car would have easily been in the 12's last year on slicks, i also have a really shitty tune.. +20's, 255, glhs stg 2 and 2 bar map. i am sure the car loses a lot from that.. well see.. im converting to megasquirt as we speak id also like to convert to auto as im sure that would work better with this low revving torquey engine, but being poor means the mods come slow

Stock T2 turbo, Relentless 2 barcal (16 PSI)
I run drag radials, crappy short times, 2.1x usually
I'm spinning most of the way down the track.
My car will go from the center to the edge of the track,
with me holding the wheel straight.
I have a video if someone can host it for me.
It's not very good, but it's something.

[saw wave analog]

keith, just stick the vid on youtube, or if you want to email it to me at reactor303@hotmail.com ill put it up for you. i can host pics for you on the local forum im a moderator on's server if you would like


your tune, better traction and especially auto tranny explain the difference. my car would benefit from a 3 speed so much its rediculous.. it just makes too much power for such a short geared 5 speed as the a555. my omni is stripped to shit, weighs 2100 with me in it, and has a decently ported 782 head with a roller cam


knowing what i know now, i will never build another 5 speed drag omni. everyone out there seems to suggest that the 555 is the tranny to have, but ive come to the realization that it SUCKS in a nicely modded omni.

i am convinced that i would drop 3 or 4 tenths easy on the setup i have now with nothing more than a 3 speed swap.. it would shift less, shift faster, be more consistant off the line, not drop boost between shifts and most importantly make much better use of the torque that these things make... a stock geared 555 has no place in a modded lightened omni


my project for this winter is megasquirt, thats coming along nicely right now, i hope to have a nice a413 in there before the end of summer as well

[beyond_audio]

you could always swap to a 3.50 ratio 523. it would definately help the gearing out and you would still have a fun car to cruise with

[devlish]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Alto Stock T2 turbo, Relentless 2 barcal (16 PSI) I run drag radials, crappy short times, 2.1x usually I'm spinning most of the way down the track. .

what times are you running at 16psi on the stock t2 turbo? thanks

[Shadow]

A stock geared 555 or 568 is a good trans too the mid 11 sec mark. Start making more power than that and they become more difficult to drive. At least that's what I've experienced. Still think I should be able to put her into the tens though! Or at least trap over 130mph!

[saw wave analog]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow A stock geared 555 or 568 is a good trans too the mid 11 sec mark. Start making more power than that and they become more difficult to drive. At least that's what I've experienced. Still think I should be able to put her into the tens though! Or at least trap over 130mph!

its definately a good solid trans, i just personally feel like my car would be a lot better off as an auto, even though that would take some of the fun of driving it away


has anyone reading this swapped from a manual trans to an auto and recorded the difference at the track? id be really interested in seeing what happened

[Keith Alto]

I experimented with tire size for a few years.
225 drag radials and 205's.
I ended up changing the transfer gears to .91, which gives me like a
2.76 gear ratio, or something close to that.
It really pulls now.
Before I switched transfer gears, at the top end the boost would fall off
because the motor was wound out and wasen't any load on the turbo.
So now I run the 205 drag radials, still keeps my rpm down through the traps.
I need more traction though.
I'm currently looking at the M&H 7.5/23-15 drag slick.
Very close to the 205 drag radial size.
I bet your car would really like a 26" tall tire.
Also think about adding the spacers I mentioned before under the rear springs.
It willl help your 60' for sure.
I'm thinking I could make a few extra if your interested.

Devlish, I have yet to make a clean pass at the track, I've only run it a few times with the RR cal.
About 100' before the end of the track, the computer acts like it hits overboost, shuts down the motor, even though overboost is eliminated in the cal.
Best pass to date is 13.15@ 95, obviously coasting through the traps.
I'll see if I can get the video hosted.

[DaytonaTurbo87]

keith, 26" is a pretty tall tire already. I run 27" tires in the back of my satellite. It's a tall tire. I don't think a fwd could be easily made to fit that size of tire, but I'm no expert. And instead of adding spacers, why not run air shocks in the back? They make some nice ones these days that are part oil shock, part air shock. I had a set of those in the back of my dart before I sold it. Can stiffen up the rear end nicely if need be and you can tune each side to what you need. Just a thought.

[Shadow]

I know of a couple Shelby chargers running 26' slicks, I think you just need the right offset rim. I'm still on 24's and I'm thinking they will take me into the tens, but I could be wrong. The guy's running 26's are at or around the 500whp+ level and at that level they seem to make a big diff. Got a set of 26' M/H's just in case.

[Keith Alto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaytonaTurbo87 keith, 26" is a pretty tall tire already. I run 27" tires in the back of my satellite. It's a tall tire. I don't think a fwd could be easily made to fit that size of tire, but I'm no expert. And instead of adding spacers, why not run air shocks in the back? They make some nice ones these days that are part oil shock, part air shock. I had a set of those in the back of my dart before I sold it. Can stiffen up the rear end nicely if need be and you can tune each side to what you need. Just a thought.

I agree, 26" tire might not fit, or would need spacers.
I guess I wasen't saying he should try to run some, but with the gearing he
has, I think would work nicely.
L bodies have a strut setup on the rear suspension.
Can't run air shocks.

[beyond_audio]

to run an air shock you would have to weld in brackets for it. it wouldnt be that hard to do and could easily be removed for when driving and added when racing

[Keith Alto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by beyond_audio to run an air shock you would have to weld in brackets for it. it wouldnt be that hard to do and could easily be removed for when driving and added when racing

Much easier to add spacers and leave them there.