Help With Diagnosing Vacuum Error?

[DC Turismo]

Hey all! My car has been doing the following since I put a new motor in back in August. However, this current motor needs new rings and wristpins, so, even though I lived with the error reoccurring time and time again, I will be swapping in a better running motor and hope to have this error diagnosed so I can make the correct adjustments when putting the vac. lines back together this time around.

I will give you all the facts, even if in the end they do not correspond with each other at all.

1. The main problem occurs when I am getting on the gas, and hold it down for a prolonged period of time (6 or 7 seconds?). After this amount of time, the vac. hose connecting from the back of the intake T'ing a smaller hose that connects to the top tube on the Map sensor disconnects from the MAP itself AND I have a smaller vacuum hose that goes from the bottom tube on the MAP Sensor upwards and connects to whatever sensor type object is to the left (passenger side of it if looking straight at engine). In addition, the boost gauge reads 13 - 15 PSI even though I do not have an upgraded computer or G-valve installed. I am definitely not running that much boost I'm sure.

2. Once this occurs, I have to pull over and fix it because the car starts bucking and idling roughly and has a delayed gas response. Once I reconnect the hose, and start the car up, the whole thing just starts shaking. I have to tap the gas to keep it running, but once I get up over 10 mph the shaking goes away and all seems well.

Any thoughts? I imagine a vaccuum line is mixed up somewhere. Can you diagnose it from just this string of events though?

[GLHExorcist]

That "other sensor" you refer to is the Baro read solenoid.It sniffs a little shot of outside air to get a sense of the barometric pressure to be able to ajust the fuel at say,elevation.

When The hose flies off,it no longer sees map signal and goes full rich,hence the sputtering.The fact that when you plug the hose back on and it runs like crap is just fouled plugs.

What kind of TD is it?
Motor year?Converted electronics?I'm guessing that you have 88 and up elect.seeing as the map and baro are one unit.Is the boost gauge factory or added on?You may have a one way valve on that vac line(I.E.: sees only boost and no vac.OR vice versa.)

[DC Turismo]

It's a 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2.5 T1 (upgraded to Garrett t2 turbo, factory gauge cluster w/boost gauge). Engine was a 1990 2.5 but after it dropped a rod I put in an 89 2.5 G Cast CB. The motor is in need for wristpins and rings.

The spark plugs are only a few months old.

[GLHExorcist]

well I've killed plugs that were two hours old By running too rich.That's why it comes back to normal after a few miles.It burns off the deposits.

[TFMech]

It sounds like you need to fix your vacume lines...go get a bunch of vacume line and a vacume diagram and replace them all. When you conect them zip tie them all on with mini zip ties. Then when it comes to the factory boost guage they are inacurate at best. The stock one in my daytona was 5psi low. You need a Autometer boost guage if you are going to work on a TD at all. Especially if you want to run a manual boost controler.

Kris