BOV not blowing off...more of a surge? daytona 2.5t

[Dj Sylert]

Ok, so i finally got to putting my BOV on and its not working. I stripped out the whole original setup and filter box and replaced with 2.5" piping. No intercooler. I have the BOV right in front of the throttle body, I used to vacuum line that was connected the the original plastic valve that was inside the air box. routed the piping from the upper intake to the smaller hole on the turbo..and then bascially extended the original plastic intake hose and put a cone filter on it. Long story short NO BOV SOUND? ive read around and people said there bov was broken and I DO have a used BOV, but i swapped my friends with mine whose works fine and it still didnt work. and ive also read that its "surging" because i do hear a slight woosh noise but its where the filter is.. I would really like to figure this out but its stressing me out because my car is running fine, not stalling, and when i pop the vacuum line off the bov its reading only about 5-10 on my vacuum gauge but when i put it back its 20 or so, and i can hear the suction and feel it so i know the line im using is good. Anyone have a clue what i did wrong here? and in case it matters its an old school greddy rs pink with the 2 vacuum nipples and i connected it to each one to see and i've changed the setting from hard to soft and still nothing.

[2.5TURBO]

i know nothing of your bov but maybe they are performance ones that don't operate below a certain amount. how much boost are you pushing

[MachIIIRayzor]

Are you sure it's connected properly?
I thought the one's that had two vacuum ports usually had one connected to the intake and the other connected to your turbo compressor housing.

[Dj Sylert]

my car boosts around 11-14psi, so there should be no problem with it making any noise, even my old turbo rabbit boosting at 7 made it blow off same with stock vw's that only boost around the same thing.
this is what i read on a different site
"The small hose you removed from the stock BOV must be connected to the larger nipple on the anodized cap (closest to the adjustment screw.)
(Note: This connects to the intake after the throttle butterfly and will pull vacuum when the throttle is closed)

The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the BOV may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastgate actuator. Use the T-connector supplied. This connects to pressure even when the other line has vacuum. This will activate the BOV faster by applying pressure under the valve seat.

The smaller nipple may also be left unconnected. The BOV will operate slower and more quietly. I did not test this mode.
The GReddy valve has two fittings for small vacuum lines on it. The top fitting is for the same hose that went to the original stock bypass valve, the hose that goes to the intake manifold. The lower fitting is normally left open. It is a vent for the lower chamber of the valve.

On some cars with large turbos, compressor surge at light throttle lifts can be further reduced by connecting the lower fitting to a pressure source. Typically a fitting is added to an I/C pipe between the turbo outlet and the valve. "

but still it doesnt have ANY noise on mine without the lower nipple connected and i find that hard to believe...does anyone on here have the type s connected in there car?
If theres anything else you need to know id be glad to answer!

[Dj Sylert]

also during the week i plan on taking some pictures and linking in a video "if im allowed to on this site" so people have a better idea of what i did...maybe someone will be able to help from that but in the meanwhile suggestions are appreciated!

[Dj Sylert]

Here are some pics, maybe that will help!