grainger

[aenimacs]

just so I am correct, you put the grainger directly in front of the wastegate nipple so it doesn't see any pressure until the g-valve lets it. and will my computer compensate for the extra boost. I drive a 1990 daytona shelby 2.5L turbo auto (no cat and glass pack) that is only pushing 7 psi after 4,000 and under 4,000 only 5 psi, and sometimes it barely gets 5 psi to almost redline. my gauge isn't badly off (it shows about 20 in vac at idle). I only want to raise it to 11 or 12 psi until I intercool.

[capev86]

Intercool it before you raise the boost!! The T2 and T3 run at around 12psi. Some T1's apparently will do do quick shots at 9psi so I'd keep it well under 10psi w/out an intercooler!!!

[aenimacs]

I am going to intercool it eventually, but I'd like to get it to the actual stock boost levels of 7 psi to around 4,000 rpm and 11 psi after, I know the grainger will take it to one boost setting and keep it, but I'd like to have full boost (10 or 11) instead of partial boost. At least until I get it intercooled.

[omnivore]

what he is saying is that if you turn up the boost to 11 psi without intercooling, you run the risk of detonating to the point of breaking ring lands on your pistons....then you'll be rebuilding that 2.5

[NJMarc]

Well, if anything he can run stock boost with a grainger for much better response...however, I ran 14psi on my old GLH with a zillion miles on it, and never once had a problem, I have a huge stack of timeslips...I ran 11psi on my 89 2.5T1 one van also, and the new owner is running the same setup...not one problem.

Both were non intercooled btw...run good gas, retard your timing a tad if need be, watch your a/f gauge, and pop in some colder plugs like Champion RN9YC's, and you should be fine at 11-12psi... just listen for pings, and keep an eye on your plugs.

As always though, these cars are 15+ years old, so you gotta be careful for sure...