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Engine - Turbo Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output.

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Old 08-08-2008, 01:08 AM   #16
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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dumb question where can you get the grainger valve will be adding one to my t1
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:46 AM   #17
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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That's not a dumb question at all really. I got mine from Welcome to FWD Performance, Inc. it was about 25 dollars. i think it's in the turbo miscellaneous section.
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:55 AM   #18
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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You can build one for about $10 with parts from McMaster-Carr.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:05 PM   #19
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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I went to the local Grainger supply store and bought one (yes, I have a Grainger supply store 5 minutes from my house). It's actually a vacuum relief valve in the parts book. But McMaster-Carr sells them too as Sittn86 said. Then you need a vacuum fitting for the non-adjustable end and you have to fabricate one for the adjustable end. I think Gus had one on his site using a plastic T from the car parts store that he epoxied in. Most of us just buy the tiny 90 degree elbow and hammer it in (also available at McMaster and the like). But if you don't want to go through the trouble, just buy one pre-assembled from one of the TD vendors or someone on the forums.

Honestly you don't even HAVE to make it the "traditional" way. You can custom make your own out of any kind of spring-loaded adjustable check valve.

Edit: I forgot to add. Total I think my first g-valve cost $9 and some change. The parts from McMaster or wherever will be slightly more because you have to pay shipping and typically you can't just buy 1 barbed fitting, you buy a bag of 10 or so. But you can always go to a Home Depot or the like and get singles from there.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:10 PM   #20
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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Originally Posted by itsbudda View Post
yeah i'll be sure to. I'm unintercooled. I'm kinda wondering what the most i can run unintercooled with a stage 2 mopar computer. I figured 14-15. dunno.
Is this your '87? I wouldn't want to push 14 psi without an intercooler even with a Garrett. Probably shouldn't go past 12. But watch your plugs and A/F for any bad signs. You never really know about the quality of gas you're getting.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:24 PM   #21
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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That's true. And yes this is the 87. I was just curious what the limit is, as i want to stay safely below it. I'm planning to stop around 12. But i don't have a boost guage so I'm a little blind.

And i'll be closely monitoring the a/f ratio, and i've been trying to locate a stock boost guage at the junkyard.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:25 PM   #22
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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and i'll be running good gas
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:30 PM   #23
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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thanks guys I found a grainger in detroit I checked the catalog,does anyone know the part n0.or item no.don't want to purchase wrong one the have quite a few thanks
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:41 PM   #24
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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5z763 IIRC.
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:15 PM   #25
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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Hey guys, don't mean to hijack this thread but I just got a g-valve. I have an 89 Lebaron with a mitsu T1. If you look at my turbo, there is a vacuum line from the turbo to a "T" connection. From there, one vacuum line goes to the wastegate can and the other vacuum line goes up by the fuel rail to a smaller vacuum line and from there I believe it goes to the wastegate silenoid? I hooked up the g-valve on the line that goes from the 'T" to the silenoid with the bent end toward the "T". Is this right? I went from 5-8lbs of boost stock and now I can't get past 5lbs...HELP
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:31 PM   #26
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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you need to take that stuff off, and run a line from the intake manifold to the ball side of the grainger, then to the wastegate actuator on the turbo.
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:43 PM   #27
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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So disconnect where I have it connected to the silenoid and connect it to a vacuum line after the manifold somewhere? Kinda like how I hooked up my boost gauge?
I think I should take the "T" off and hook the g-valve between where the vacuum line comes off of the turbo and to the wastegate, sound right?

Last edited by Ghostof309; 08-08-2008 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Addition
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:42 AM   #28
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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theres a small nipple on the compressor housing- use that as your boost source. connect that to the input on your valve, and the output goes straight to the wategate can. done. dont use the orifice that was on the line- it caused mine to spike badly.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:21 PM   #29
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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Thanks for the help guys. Got it hooked up today and its working great. I eliminated that hose that goes to the silenoid and it seems to run fine. See any problems with leaving that line disconnected. I have it set at 10 lbs of boost right now.. Hopefully I will get my intercooler parts so I can intercool it soon.
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:20 PM   #30
Re: Grainger valve question.  
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Originally Posted by ol"blue View Post
What's your reason for not having an intercooler?
I missed this post. My reason is because I have an early T1 with the log manifold, and intercooling it is gonna be a big PITA. I was thinking about converting to T2, but i'm probably just gonna mount an ic and run it with the current manifolds.



I just hooked up the grainger valve. There's only one vac line to the wastegate actuator, so i'm assuming that's it. Cut. Plug. Its in. Now to install the a/f guage...
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