87 daytona shelby, few problems, please help!!!

[ozzypirate77]

hey guys and girls, i just bought an '87 daytona shelby with the 2.2L turbo and i have a few problems i need some help with. The car had been sitting for 2 years before i bought it. it has 103,000 on it. i am an ex technician for gm so i know generally how to fix things on cars, but i am lost on this thing.

First problem is all the vacuum lines, the little ones on the passenger's side fender are disconnected and i don't know where they all plug up, the haynes manual says nothing as far as vacuum diagrams, big help right?

Second problem is the car keeps blowing smoke after warming up, and the smoke gets worse the more u hit the gas, and this is sitting still since i can't drive it anywhere on account of the busted brake lines i am in the process of replacing. The smoke color is white most of the time, with occasional hints of blue, and yes, the head gasket was just replaced on it, and it doesn't smell like oil smoke. I'm hoping its bad gas, we drained most of it, and it was so rancid and brown from sitting that its a good thing we drained it, but still, we might not have gotten it all out, u can only siphon so far.

Third problem is we just replaced the fuel pump and sometimes when the car has warmed up it will cut out, and wont start again for a few minutes, sometimes it will never cut out....???

Last problem right now is the oil pressure gauge will read lower the higher the rpm's get. I'm hoping this is just a sending unit reading issue? if it is, is the place to plug up an after market gauge easy to reach?

Thanks for all your help in advance!!! -Ozzy.

[eric lengeman]

well the vacum lines on the p'side fender are for wastegate control and purge canister the smoke sounds to me like your burning water theres a good chance that there mite be a crack in the head if it was over heated i hope for you its not as far as shuting down on you i used to have that problem with my 85 lancer 2.2 turbo i found it to be vapore lock in the fuel lines i solved it with and a extra heat shield on the fire wall i try to find my vacum diagrams and post them for you as far as the oil port its located under the termostat housing toward the driverside just before the bell housing you'll see the sender there and the oil line going to the turbo hope that helps you

[ozzypirate77]

that helps me a good bit, but the only thing is, the head gasket was just replaced on it by the dealership. the smoke doesn't smell like coolant or oil, it smells......well gross. those vacuum diagrams would help bunches, or if anybody has a live picture of under their own personal hood of the vacuum lines connected i could see where they all go, because none of them are connected and i haven't the slightest clue where they all go.

[eric lengeman]

to be honest i only have 1 of the vacum lines conected on mine its the larg one coming from the the canister thats only conected cause i hate the gas vapores that come out of it as far as the others i blocked them off other then the waste gate witch i put my home made boost controler in to get hire levels of boost

[ozzypirate77]

anybody else have any ideas/opinions?

[zips11]

check the wiring connection at the oil pressure sending unit...a loose / bad connection can cause false readings on the gauge...mine has even worked backwards at times from a bad connection. as far as the smoke goes...have you ruled out a head / block problem? just cuz the gasket was replaced doesn't mean there isn't a problem, esp if the motor was overheated. check the cooling system for combustion gas with block test dye... i'm guessing the underhood vacuum diagram is gone...factory manual or possibly alldata or mitchell...i doubt photos will be much help...once the factory plastic vacuum tubes break, vacuum systems tend to resemble spaghetti. best of luck.

[EvilcowRoland]

From the intake manifold vacuum source, run lines to the fuel pressure regulator, MAP, boost gauge, and to the top barb on the wastegate solenoid. The middle barb on the wastegate solenoid goes to the wastegate can on the turbo. You don't "need" the purge system connected for it to run. Here's a diagram. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo/turbo87.jpg

As for the smoking, more likely the turbo seal than a head issue. If a head or gasket was bad enough to cause that kind of smoke then it would be running like crap. Might explain your strange oil pressure readings too.

The no start could be a number of things. Have you checked it for fault codes? Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

[ozzypirate77]

yea, no check engine light. we are gonna work on it at the shop today, i'll let u know what we find out tonite. thanks for all u guys's help so far!!!

[89turbodude]

second on the bad turbo

[puppet]

ex Tech with no diagnostic skills?
There is still an engine under the grease, mouse turds and leaves bro.
Do a leak down test.

[ozzypirate77]

well, i am going to do all those tests on it, like compression, leak down, oil pressure, etc...i might have a clogged catalytic too, but the reason for not knowing much on this is, i worked on gm, so i'm not familiar with turbo car problems, plus i was a technician trainee, it takes quite a few years to get enough experience to know how to differentiate smoke with a valve seal vs rings or turbo seal, or head gasket, i mean, how do u tell which it is so you don't end up rebuilding the wrong part of the engine? we are trying to avoid rebuilding the whole thing ya know? but no, i never got to diagnose many things anyways, i was usually the guy changing the parts after my buddy the head technician diagnosed it. i don't have a lot of experience in diagnosing.

[puppet]

Get a Factory Service Manual.
Do a leak down test.
Oil pressure gauge can be attached to front of oil distribution block ... location illustrated in FSM.
Vacuum line lay-out illustrated in FSM or on
Donovan's Dodge Garage
Engine spec's and wear limits in FSM.

Sounds like a real project on your hands. ... but these TD's are easy to work on.
Fix the basics first.

[ozzypirate77]

ok guys, here is the update. we have been working on it a few days during the week after work when we have time. we changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and now it is running fine as far as misfiring. The #1 cylinder is still getting wet fouled, but its gas, not oil on the plug. The sending unit was bad, we tested the pressure with a mac gauge, so we put a new one on and that solved my oil pressure problem, it is not cutting out anymore because the "new" p.o.s. fuel pump from china was going bad already so we changed that. So, all i got right now is it is still smoking whitish gray smoke, but it smells like bad gas, and the catalytic converter is glowing at the time of this. Also, when i hit the brakes the right side brake light goes out, where are these things grounded? does anybody know a site where i can get the whole wiring diagrams for the whole vehicle? the haynes manual doesn't help much on diagrams. Also the speedometer doesn't work at all, is it hard to get to it to change the unit on the tranny? So, wiring diagrams would be a big help right now, thanks!

[4Daytonas]

Hopefully NAJ will see this and help you out

[docta J]

my car was burning smoke after the engine got a temp reading. turns out my turbo was shot. i replaced the turbo, and no smoke now.

your fuel pump might have had rust in it or water from sitting for so long. i say after you get all the gas out, fill it up all the way with premium (93 octane or higher) and dump a can of seafoam in the tank. this should do the trick