who makes a stainless turbo header

[turboAMX]

I would like to buy a stainless turbo header hopefully 321 stainless at least .065 or thicker or buy a stainless flange set for an 8 valve.

[UnaClocker]

Why bother? And 8valve head will never flow even remotely enough to take advantage of it.
Oh, and you don't want a stainless flange.. Stainless pipes, yeah, but a stainless flange will warp like you wouldn't believe with the kind of heat a turbo manifold sees. Should always use mild steel for flanges on a turbo header setup. I've seen them actually tear the exhaust studs out of a head it warps so aggressively.

[The Pope]

03-06 Holset on a drilled and tapped to use it stock manifold. Then port the snot out of the stocker and ceramic coat it.

The cast TU header really flows but is a PITA to deal with.

[UnaClocker]

That should be the cast TU "header".. It's really just another log manifold..

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnaClocker Why bother? And 8valve head will never flow even remotely enough to take advantage of it. Oh, and you don't want a stainless flange.. Stainless pipes, yeah, but a stainless flange will warp like you wouldn't believe with the kind of heat a turbo manifold sees. Should always use mild steel for flanges on a turbo header setup. I've seen them actually tear the exhaust studs out of a head it warps so aggressively.

Uhh I have to disagree. I love my header, yes it's on the small side but I think I see plenty of gains from it. What's funny is it flows less than the exhaust port on my 8v head. There's a thread on the other site of a grossly oversized header put on a stock 8v T2. Dyno'd before and after and saw gains. The gain is that you get rid of the reversion between ports and direct the air much better to the turbo.

[UnaClocker]

Are you talking a real header, or that log manifold Pope just referred to?

[GLHNSLHT2]

Tyler Head, JRB Header, BR Intake Manifold Real enough for ya?

[Reaper1]

TU's header is not a simple "log". It is a stepped manifold that takes in to account the increase of volume each cylinder is introducing to the flow. This is not new tech, but it IS proven(Indy cars used it for a long time)! True, it is not an equal length or tube header, but it IS an improvement over a stock or even a ported stock manifold.

Yes, it IS proven a ported stock manifold can support in excess of 500hp, however what needs to be said is that the person doing that has said themselves that they just wanted to stick with stock parts for as long as they can and that gains WILL be had by moving to a different part! Also, the other thing that is not known is the exhaust pressure in that manifold. I'm willing to bet there is a fair amount of reversion due to that and that turbo response suffers because of it.

As for a true stainless tube header, there is one in development right now, but it won't be ready for a few more months from what was just posted on the "other" site. One thing is for certain, it will be a quality peice, but it won't be inexpensive and WILL require some customization.

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 TU's header is not a simple "log". It is a stepped manifold that takes in to account the increase of volume each cylinder is introducing to the flow. This is not new tech, but it IS proven(Indy cars used it for a long time)! True, it is not an equal length or tube header, but it IS an improvement over a stock or even a ported stock manifold.

To start, it is not a step header, not even close. It is a copy of there stove pipe header. UNA is correct that using that term is wrong for slang. Most of us all speak in slang and it isn't a "header" like what Jays "header" is. The TU piece does flow 26 CFM per hole more than Jays tube header though. BUT it does have reversion and it also doesn't direct the flow at the turbine like Jays header. But if your turbo is big enough, you will see power from the volume it can move. It needs a lot of porting to work right and the turbine must be ported and shaped to use it. So the TU piece is not a direct bolt on.



the hole is WAY TOO BIG and not shaped right.



no inside turn means you must make the inside turn with the turbine, which means that turbine goes with that header for ever.



I cut a 1/4" into the turbine to make the inside turn that the header doesn't have to make some kind of inside turn for flow. Then I cut about an 1/8" deep in 2" into the turbine to match up the other sides.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 Yes, it IS proven a ported stock manifold can support in excess of 500hp, however what needs to be said is that the person doing that has said themselves that they just wanted to stick with stock parts for as long as they can and that gains WILL be had by moving to a different part! Also, the other thing that is not known is the exhaust pressure in that manifold. I'm willing to bet there is a fair amount of reversion due to that and that turbo response suffers because of it.

well sure, it isn't the best choice. But the point was is that built right the exhaust manifold is WAY down the line as a need. The plenum intake is his only really big and some what expensive mod. Plus you can just say SHADOW as he is here or call him Rob lol. Besides that isn't 500 HP, that is going past 500 WHP this year lol. But yeah, when he gets all the way down the road in power and changes to a tube header he will really gain. Keep in mind though Rob is making more power than others with TBI headers and tube headers by building a plenum intake first. You can either make a little power decreasing the exhaust pressure a little more and clean it up. Or make big power by increasing the pressure on the intake valve first. Robs setup should make you rethink the importance of the header in the line of mods, 1 - 2 -3 and so on. A tube header will also die on a turbo car in a short period of time, a sad fact, the metal is too thin for the head abuse..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 As for a true stainless tube header, there is one in development right now, but it won't be ready for a few more months from what was just posted on the "other" site. One thing is for certain, it will be a quality peice, but it won't be inexpensive and WILL require some customization.

That will be sweet, but it is an expensive requirement for way down the HP line. But after someone has a big valve ported head, a big cam, a huge turbo, a big plenum hogged out ported intake, and at least 72 /85 lb injectors and is at least 30 PSI of boost. Then the header isn't needed, just a nice mod to aid spool up at the drag strip. IT takes a lot of mods before the header moves out of the want column and into the need column.

[QuicksilverDon]

Here's a place to try:
Custom Headers Built To Your Specifications

[Reaper1]

Rob, I've read your thread on what you did to the TU header. I've also talked directly with them and I understand what is going on INSIDE the packaging. What you see on the outsidedoes NOT tell the entire story of what is going on in the inside! I know you won't take my word for it as you have a very biased opinion on this. I'll just say that the TU header is a HUGE improvement over the old "stovepipe" manifold and TU has stood behind and given reasons for ALL of the issues you've complained about. Yes, there were compromises made, but they are in place due to other design criteria.

If somebody is looking to help out with spool time and also tuning(as reversion can introduce premature knock situations) along with mounting a large turbo with little to no major fabrication and NOT chance screwing up a port job(or they don't want to do that work), then the TU header is a very good solution!

The tubular header being developed was never and is never going to be aimed at people with smaller amounts of mods. It is a RACE part and is being developed as such, as per the people involved with its inception.

Lest we forget that engines are SYSTEMS and need to be treated as such. Bolting on stuff does work, and modding existing stock parts helps, but if things are done that go hand in hand, then the overall picture is better than either of the other options.

[turboAMX]

I only want a less than 300 horse engine (STREETER) that will last a while something that I don't have to continually mess with or melt down Playtoy 15psi boost or less

[thinkofhairy]

Ported stock exhaust manifold with a Super60 turbo. Proven 300hp capable.

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 TU's header is not a simple "log". It is a stepped manifold that takes in to account the increase of volume each cylinder is introducing to the flow. This is not new tech, but it IS proven(Indy cars used it for a long time)! True, it is not an equal length or tube header, but it IS an improvement over a stock or even a ported stock manifold.

First, do you own one? Have you ever seen one in person? In order for the header to step up from one cylinder to the next it must get larger and larger on the inside. The TU header doesn't. It gets larger where it makes the turn into the turbo but is the same size from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 on the inside. There is also no change in the shape of the runner shape out of the head.

I know what a step header is, and yes there are step turbo logs that work great. The TU header isn't even CLOSE to that design LMAO.

How can you equalize the header? Use the external wastegate. Then your evenly (mostly) removing pressure and cutting down on reversion.

As far as flow goes, I've tested it against a stock manifold, a ported manifold and the JRB tube header. It really really flows the volume on my big valve head. Bascially anything you do to a big valve 8v head this header will keep up. So I am a fan of it and I bought one. But I can tell it isn't a step header as there is no size change, and yes while porting it I got a really good look inside it. Moot point anyway. The header flows so much and holds so much volume the step part would very little even if it had it. Now on an NA the step design is really sweet

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboAMX I only want a less than 300 horse engine (STREETER) that will last a while something that I don't have to continually mess with or melt down Playtoy 15psi boost or less

A big valve 655 with a ported 2 piece and a 4" plenum will breathe enough for 400 WHP and still be very street-able. You stick a tiny little S60 on the thing and it'll pound boost so hard that every time you hit 15 PSI the tires will explode into spin. You need to at least buy a small hybrid. Then run a stage 5 for 18-20 PSI. Then run computer controlled boost. This is the big one. when you run a MBC the computer can't pull the boost back during detonation. You run computer controlled 18 -20 PSI which is 10 PSI part throttle and you'll be safe. Part throttle will be more than enough, full throttle when you really mean it. A hybrid will spool just slow enough for a soft hit and more traction.