question on head bolts

[ryan_austin89]

Alrighty.. welp I just put the new head gasket on a few days ago and she runs amazing..beside the fact that the 4 piece valve covers are pieces of shit and don't seal and I have to get a new 1 piece vc..ha anyways I've heard from a lot of people its a good idea...but not nessesary to retorque the head bolts. I drove her a 100 miles and parked it till my new valve covers in. Question is what is the proper ft lbs for the retorque of the head bolts? They were around 94 with the last 1/4 turn after the 45 65 65. Thks all!

[glhs727]

On the factory stretch to yield bolts, I do not retorque. once you do the +1/4 turn it should be at least 90 ft. lbs, I then usally set my torque wrench to 85 ft pound just to double check that all are at least that. Since you have the VC off, you can recheck then, but shouldn't have too, if you did it right the first time. on ARP stuff, i also recheck after a couple hundred miles.....

[Turbomini]

glhs727 is right if they are stock style felpro bolts then your fine. if theres not a problem i would just leave it be

[GLHNSLHT2]

yes only retorque on Studs.

[detobias]

OK I guess I'll be th odd one out here -

I pop the valve cover off after 3-5 'heat cycles'
(engine has been *fully* warmed up, then cooled down)

then 'check' each bolt (using same tightening pattern) to verify 85-90 ft-lbs ;
there is usually 2-3 that need ~1/16 turn ...

[mech1nxh]

^ +1
I retorque at 1.5k miles,just seems good preventative maintenance
on an 'old ' block/head ...

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

there is no such thing as a 4 piece gasket turbo valve cover

only 1 and 2 piece , if you used the cork gaskets front & back that is the prob , only silicone goes along front & back + a dab in each "pocket" where the end seals fit into the v/c - though I always put a small amount of silicone on top & bottom of rubber seals too , just for insurance against leaks later

[turismolover22]

I have been told to do either way (leave it, or retorque after a heat cycle)

Proper torque sepcs is 65 lbs + 1/4 turn. Then after heat cycles set to 90ft-lbs and make sure they all click. If they require more than an 1/8th- 1/16 and do not click, replace that bolt. If you continue to turn it, you will more than likely snap it in half.

[detobias]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turismolover22 Then after heat cycles set to 90ft-lbs and make sure they all click. If they require more than an 1/8th- 1/16 and do not click, replace that bolt. If you continue to turn it, you will more than likely snap it in half.

+1 good point to add

[turismolover22]

It is not fun, to pull 9 bolts and the head because the 10th one broke! Trust me I've had to help a guy who did it, it is not fun.

[mech1nxh]

ryan, FOR YOUR EDIFICATION & FURTHER KNOWLEDGE.
Some notes ;
On Head Bolts, & common 'failures'...

So ... (setting the stage as it were),

We are working on a 20+ year old Head/ Block config...

1) The head... You can have the latest & greatest bling bling
fastener known to man, however if the washer surfaces on the head
are not at a near perfect 90* center line to the head bolt ya'll gonna
get 'snappage' lol.

2) Choice of assembly lube is paramount to longevity. < 250 chp,
slot an old head bolt & chase the block threads. DO NOT USE A TAP!!
USE 30 WT SAE SC CE GENERIC OIL FOR ASSEMBLY LUBE

3) & MOST IMPORTANT IMHO, "dry fit the head "... takes some time,
not alot...use Your h/g of choice , torque to 1'st sequence- 45#. &
remove head.

rule of thumb = < 90% " witness " mark on hg = + 10 ft lb torque on the
the specific cyl related bolts...

Hope this advances Your Build