ATP Wastegate Swingvalve?

[The Pope]

ET is more car than engine though, should have enough engine for a 12. With a Daytona and a 3 bar you should start pushing 25 PSI, not 18.

The computer to get from Shel-game is the flashable computer and run either a SMEC or a SBEC and a wide band. You done enough to the rest of the car in work and have been around long enough to start doing the tuning. Toss in the +40s (if not there already), hook up an OTC for watching knock and watch a wideband for fuel and turn it up. Every flow change and the ATP counts for that, you need little adjustments. Just easier to make with a lap top than sending in the computer.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope yeah it really adds up when you decide to build a Masi head engine LMAO

Yea specially when you add all the good stuff to it. You know, like GT30R with .82 exhaust housing, oversize valves, upgraded dual springs, Ti retainers, aluminum adjustable cam gears, External Tial WG, Oliver billet steel 6.180" rods, Custom JE's for said rods and head. But it should be one bad Mofo :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockslinger I have never run a tu 3", but GLHNSLHT2 has and he said that his tu 3" didn't really build up boost with the wg flapping in the breeze. With the wg unhooked and flapping in the breeze on my mini I started building boost at apx 3500 rpm and hit the 14.7 psi over boost 1000 rpm later. Now that was before porting the wg hole mind you. That is why it is a must to port the wg hole for 2 bar users and a suggestion for 3 bar users. Makes the boost quite a bit more controllable.

Well in reference every non-stock SV I've used has had the WG hole ported at time of install. My Turbonetics 2.5" was opened up to 1" as the flapper was 1.125" and when I put the TU on I went to a 1.125" hole as the flapper was 1.250 in diameter. So even if I did get a flow increase with the SV's the hole was ready for it :) Even my next setup get's a step up in the WG hole size, to 1.732" :) which is the same size as what the stock hole was feeding the turbo on it :)

Though I still think the ATP piece flows much better than the TU piece.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cawcislo Never had any boost issues with the Super 60 and 3" Swingvalve. There was quite a hit when the boost came on, you could really feel when 18 psi hits. The car hasn't been driven much over the past 3 years and when I took it out this year I had boost issues (wouldn't boost more than about 6 or 8 psi. Not sure if my wastegate or actuator aren't working properly, but I've got a rotten floor/rocker panel to fix first before I get to that. I really hope to drive the thing more next year and hit the drag strip again for the first time in probably 4 years. Hopefully with the suspension rebuilt, and the ATP swingvalve mod completed I can get into those low 13's I've been working towards for like 10 years :-)

Get rid of the Cummins i/c

[unclerico]

I really like that i have a v band on my my turbo also and that looks much better than what ive done so far i still need the flex tube. I really like the intake manifold too. Looks very nice.

[cawcislo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope ET is more car than engine though, should have enough engine for a 12. With a Daytona and a 3 bar you should start pushing 25 PSI, not 18. The computer to get from Shel-game is the flashable computer and run either a SMEC or a SBEC and a wide band. You done enough to the rest of the car in work and have been around long enough to start doing the tuning. Toss in the +40s (if not there already), hook up an OTC for watching knock and watch a wideband for fuel and turn it up. Every flow change and the ATP counts for that, you need little adjustments. Just easier to make with a lap top than sending in the computer.

I got another chip burned by Shel-game, but I have the 87 LM, so I'd have to upgrade to 89 or newer electronics to get the flashable comp. Not sure if I want to tear out the engine harness and computers and then find 89 newer electronics and 89 and newer sensors etc that probably won't plug in to my 87 electronics. +40 are there and have been for quite a while. Have a wideband and OTC scan tool (old school). We'll see though. First thing's first is floors/rockers and then get it running with full boost, and go from there.

[GLHNSLHT2]

going from 87-88/89 electronics on a daytona is a whole hell of a lot of fun. NOT! I went from 87 to 88 electronics on mine. Found a nice 88 in the j-yard and thought oh this will be easy. Yea right. 24 hrs worth of work later it runs great though. 1st the moved the 50 pin to under the dash, no biggie right? You'd think except mopar was sneaky or stupid and reversed the sexes of the plugs so in 87 you have male where in 88 it's female on that side and vice versa. Now you don't want to cut up your 87 T2 harness so what do you do. You go get an 87 Lebaron J-body T1 50 pin connector with about 8" of wire on it. Then you cut the 50 pin off the 88 harness and solder and heat shrink all the wires to it. No biggie right, all the colors are the same. Sure most. Cept they did something sneaky with the starter wires. In 87 they go through the 50 pin, in 88 they go around it! Oh and what are these extra wires here for? They're not in the 88 FSM's. Oh, fog lights?!?!? No way! Oh yes that's what they're for. Cause the 89 daytona in the yard has these same wires except there's an end on them that runs to the dash. So after 8hrs making sure you've got it all labeled correctly you start cutting soldering and heat shirinking. 8hrs sitting on the kitchen floor isn't fun doing that. But you're done at last and get to start putting it in the car. Everything is going great till you get to the windshield wiper plug. WTF?!?! THey changed that!?! I'm gonna kill myself or nuke the car! Whip out the soldering gun again you've got to cut that 87 wiper plug off your 87 harness or go find one in the yard.

but after 8hrs of pulling your old harness and putting in the new one you're done. Drop the flashable SMEC in and wire it up and relish in the new found adjustability. It is so so so nice to be able to tune the car whenever and however you want.

[cawcislo]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. 87 cars seem to be the last year before they changed almost every single plug for the sensors/electrical components. I don't really feel like spending a week soldering a whole whack load of stuff. I think it's easier just to get someone to burn me like 10 different cals if need be and swap chips.

[GLHNSLHT2]

The only plug change from 87 to 88 is the wiper motor and 50pin. Everything else between those 2 years plugs right in. It was a PITA to do it right. But being able to change 1 little thing 1 little bit and get in your car and go is so freaking worth it it's not funny. Case in point. Rockslingers van runs really lean on hot restarts for the 1st 60 seconds. Won't die but it runs rough. So yesterday evening I bumped that table 5% above 160 degrees coolant temp. Did it work? I don't know as I haven't heard back from him. But it took me all of 2 minutes and I'll just add some more fuel if it still isn't perfect.