So If i was to get that and the TU turbo back exhaust, I would have to weld a 3" v-band onto the pipe where it will meet? couldnt I just have my exhaust shop weld the DP to the rest of the exhaust?
yeah you'd need to add the band clamp piece, you can buy the clamps with both pieces together on Ebay though. I would consider FWDs JRB type exhaust, may be cheaper without the 3" donut?
The radius on the OBX d'pipe sucks though. It should look like this:
No use putting on the nice ATP Swingvalve if you're just going to throw it into a brick wall just like a stock SV by having a crappy radius off the ATP piece.
Do you have another pic showing how your 90 degree pipe curves down into the rest of your downpipe? How close is the downpipe to the PS pump (I'm assuming you wrapped the pump/hoses and or the downpipe to sheild the PS pump from the heat?
What PS pump are you using (I was reading on another forum that there's two types of PS pumps for the TD's. One is the more common metal reservoir ham cam style and the other is a ZF plastic reservoir style which leaves more clearance room for a conversion like this).
Well I ran into some problems so I'm not going to be doing the swing-valve till next year, but when I do I will make sure the radius of my DP is similar to what you posted.
No I don't have another pic. This pic is not of my car, it was posted in a thread I started over on TM.com asking about the ATP swingvalve. As you can see they're using the ZF pump. You'll never get that bend with the metal pump.
As for flow, it flows awesome. Rockslinger put one on his minivan as per my suggestion, and with the wastegate flapper flapping in the breeze he hits overboost by like 4500rpms. So it's definately moving a lot more air than it was. His minimum boost is 15-16psi.
as we go into winter. There is a few build threads that will be popping up. Shadow is talking about a stage 3, which is of course exciting. But Rocksliger / Luke plans a build thread for the ATP with photos. This is a GREAT swing valve. But being new not a lot out there for it. With Lukes thread and others as it moves forward this SV is going be posted all over in the next few years. But getting going is always a little slow lol. So be bugging rocksligner relentlessly to get something up, light a fire under his A to get him moving lol.
I love build threads, too bad I jacked up my trans changing the pump and now I have to pull it. Might get a performance rebuild on it if the money is right. The motor is done, and as far as new parts go I really just need exhaust. I'm not looking to go over 350whp ever, so I might go with the ATP with the smaller radius.
if you're going to use the smaller radius you might as just as well keep the stock style swingvalve. The whole point of the ATP piece is for flow. So you want the big radius as well or you're just back at a stock piece.
so would this setup work good only running about 15psi or would it hurt performance, and what dodges did that power steering pump come off of, would one of a T3 work after you swap pulleys
It would hurt performance when the minimum boost is raise to 15-16psi and the rest of the system is a stock computer with stock 2 bar map sensor, stock injectors with a factory overboost cutout point lower than the minimal boost.
92TurboTona said:
so would this setup work good only running about 15psi
There is no point using ATP ultimate swing valve without going with a 3 bar map sensor, 3 bar cal and bigger injectors. You will hit the overboost cut out all the time with the 2 bar map and cal setup. ATP ultimate swing valve isn't for everybody.
I will be running stage 5, 3-bar, +40s. I think the ATP unit might be too much for me as I'm only going to run 18psi on the street, maybe 20 if I'm feeling frisky at the car show. But Idk, i kind of think if im going to buy a new swingvalve I might as well buy a good one, why spend money twice?
With the swingvalve off of the turbo, you'd see the wastegate hole. You port it the same way you'd port just about anything else.
The ported wastegate hole isn't a performance gain, but it helps with boost control. The wastegate allows air to bypass the turbine, which is how it controls the boost. The more air that can bypass the turbine, the lower you are able to control the boost. If you significantly free up the exhaust, the engine will push more air through the turbine, and the wastegate hole can't allow enough air to bypass to keep the boost at lower levels.
I would port it. I actually did it to mine today. I have the van turned down to about 18psi and it did really well on boost control even before porting the wg hole. I think the atp would be good for your setup because it works great for mine and i currently have the same basic setup as you do besides that fact that I'm using ffv injectors. I've been taking pics all day while working on my van to have plenty of pics for the atp build thread soon to be here I hope
I think this is my next performance mod. Time to start buying supplies (ATP swingvalve, flex pipe, 4" radius 3" diameter mandrel u bend, vband clamp and vband flange) plus a plastic reservoir power steering "ZF" pump. Does it use the same bracket as the metal (ham can) power steering pump or does it have it it's own unique one?
Here is a list, special notes will follow at the bottom of this post. . . . "ZF" plastic pump with all mounting hardware and hoses, some sort of heat shield to go on the back of the plastic pump to protect it from exhaust heat. You will need to make studs and use exhaust mani nuts to hold the s/v onto your turbo, you will also need a adjustable wg arm. Ok so there is the list. as far as the mounting hardware goes, the masi uses the same ZF pump and does not use the back bracket that goes from the pump to block. I started out using it, but last night I took it off and it seamed to work just fine without it. I made my own heat shield by trimming down a heat shield that I found on a firewall of a turbo chrysler, the back of the pump already has mounting holes for the heat shield. I used two washers as spacers to go between the pump and shield. You will need some sort of a porting tool (a dremmel will probably work) to shave off some material on the outside of the sv so you can get the nuts on and off. The only nuts I found that work with a socket are exhaust mani nuts. I will be posting up a build thread on how to do this in the next little bit. I have all the pics needed I just need to get the time to sit down and write it out. It will be first posted in a staff section for the all the gear heads to see and make corrections, then out to everyone.
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