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Engine - Turbo & Block Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output & Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank.

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Old 11-20-2012, 10:46 PM   #16
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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tuning can be done through buying a socketed logic module from fwd performance or from boost button.com, both do a great job with them.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:54 PM   #17
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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this is the end of the T1 engine

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ting-20-a.html

computer controled boost is important not to damage the engine. Detonation will cause the engine to fail long before HP.

Shadow is closer to 600 HP at the crank. The Dodge garage is an extremely out dated write up. Not that it is all bad, a lot of good stuff to read in there. But it is based off the opinions of one guy basically.

My brothers car is a 87 CSX, which is a 87 T1 long block and runs the stage 5 with 20 PSI no problem. Add porting and big turbos and the T1 will fail. Some exhaust work and turn up the boost on a basically stock T2 top end and your fine. Consider the +20s as the end of the road for a T1, 270 HP basically.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:58 PM   #18
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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a t1 with forged pistons and t2 rods will do well above 270hp at the crank and last for a long long time no doubt.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:40 AM   #19
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onerippinturbo2 View Post
a t1 with forged pistons and t2 rods will do well above 270hp at the crank and last for a long long time no doubt.
yeah Rick D added the T1 crank to a Masi engine and pushed 440 WHP years ago without a problem. And not tuned right with grounding the injectors.

But out right, stock, the T1 late version is good for 270 with a 2.2 though and a good tune and the ability for the computer to pulling timing and boost.

The T1 2.5 and the 84-85 T1 2.2's are different and much much stronger.

Blocks are built to handle twist from the crank, with a steel crank less block strength is needed, like the early Mopar V8s. They added the steel cranks and internal balancing and the weaker block was fine. Then they made all cast cranks and the later blocks are a lot stronger. The Common block was designed for a cast 2.5 crank, so a steel 2.2 common block is the best of both worlds.

But really, for the majority out there the old block and crank is plenty strong enough. Then adding a steel crank to the early block is good for way more power than most anyone see's anyway.

I can't say I haven't bent the LW rods though lol
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