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Engine - Turbo & Block Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output & Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank.

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Old 11-18-2012, 10:47 PM   #1
87 turbo I strength?  
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would anyone have a good idea as to how much power and or boost (with appropriate tuning+gauges) an 87 turbo one can SAFELY handle? I ask because I recall reading on an oldschool site (gus or dempsey I think), he was comparing a couple different versions of the 2.2/2.5 turbo engines and went on to say "an 87 TI bottom end is still pretty strong!" Was there a significant change in 87 that improved strength? This engine is currently in my lebaron, and I have the parts to go from pull through to blow through. Currently has 200 something thousand miles (last 4 digits on ODO burnt out). I plan to do a teardown soon enough,what power could I get out of it with a basic overhaul, and how about with beefed up internals?

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Old 11-20-2012, 07:01 PM   #2
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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NAJ has really helped outNAJ has really helped out
See Donavans Dodge Garage....
Turbo Database, The Hard Parts, #07 Shortblock.
Donovan's Dodge Garage

According to DDG...
"84-88 vintage blocks are fine for day to day use as long as power does not exceed 225-250 hp. (The blocks lower end really flex around after that, this was fixed when the common block debuted in 1989) ARP main stud's or billet cap's only put off when the block or crank will break, not prevent it."

"The best rods to use are the TII ones (which require a floating pin piston) or the 81-85 2.2 rod (which do not). Basically the same rod except no bushing for a floating pin. All 89-93 2.5 Turbos use 89-90 TII rods. 91-93 2.2 16V engines use the TII rod with better bolts."

"86-88 2.2 TURBO I rods are 30 grams lighter than the above rods and should be replaced at the first opportunity! They are not suitable for performance engines and will fail with no warning."
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:19 PM   #3
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Thanks naj, in light of this info, im probably going to try to sell my 2.2l t1 parts between 2 daytonas and a lebaron. Common block here I come. Ive been looking at a 91 shelby daytona with what I believe is the high output TI 2.5L, is this a decent foundation to start with?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:30 PM   #4
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Everybody will tell you the 89 T-2 is what you want.
2.5L uses a balance shaft and has different fuel and advance curves than the 2.2L.
90 2.2L T-4 also has a balance shaft but other than that it is the same as the 89 T-2.

Not sure what your parts are worth, take a look in the parts for sale section and see what parts are selling for.

Have you read this thread???
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ting-20-a.html
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:49 PM   #5
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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you can make pretty big power with non common blocks as well, you dont really need a common block to build big power i.e shadow's charger, non common block, making over 500 hp. stock t2 rods and crank.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:55 PM   #6
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Good thread thanks again
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:04 PM   #7
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Id like to use as many of my t1 parts as possible to save time and money, but big power from small engines scares me lol.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:21 PM   #8
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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what i would do is pick up a set of t2 rods and run the cast crank, it will save weight (rotating mass) and will holdup to plenty of abuse, thus saving money. here would be my build list:
87 non common block (because you have this already)
cast crank from t1 (same as above and it's not the end of the world to run a cast crank)
stock t2 rods with new bushings pressed in and arp rod bolts
forged pistons
with that, you'll have a bottom end that will hold up to 3-400 hp no issue.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:31 PM   #9
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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^ agreed. I have seen plenty of non common block motors put down some power and last a long time. The cast crank is plenty strong, a set of t2 rods and a set of forged pistons in a non common block will hold all the power you want.
I had a non common block in my 400 horse daytona with no issues with the block at all.
Id say run it!
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #10
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Thanks, these replies are promising. Turbokid what kind of 1/4 mile times would a 400hp daytona do? I have seen our fwd cars do really impressive times at the mopar nats, but never talked to the drivers about their cars
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:40 PM   #11
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Best I could squeak out of my car on street tires was a 12.17. Slicks and more time at the track for tuning, I could have squeaked an easy 11 out of the car. But I broke an axle at the track and then I stripped the performance parts off the vehicle and sold it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:10 PM   #12
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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12s are respectable lol I guess at some point something is gonna give. Happen to know how much my garret t03 can support? Like I said id like to take advantage of the parts I have
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:21 PM   #13
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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250hp is usually the max amount you can get out of the garrets. I know with porting and a good tune you can squeeze a little more out of it. Even at 250 horse these cars are pretty darn potent.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:04 PM   #14
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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Thanks again, now its time to research an effective but not too expensive means of tuning the engine. Also I have an a555 I pulled from a daytona years ago, and would like to put it to use. Anything I should do to it before installation? any weak links in this trans?
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #15
Re: 87 turbo I strength?  
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i'd completely disassemble the 555 and see how it all looks(you wanna pay close attention to the intermediate shaft and bearing in the case, look for pitting and gauling of the case hardening on the shaft) the shaft can be redone if need be(turbovanman has a source to get the shaft repaired correctly), then replace all the bearings and seals and install a chrome moly end plate in it, you may also want to add a limited slip diff, doing this will require the intermediate shaft and ring gear to be swapped out of a 520 and use an obx limited slip diff (fairly inexpensive at 350-400.00) or use the quaife(1000.00+)
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