T03 rebuild finishing touch - need advice

[Tranquillity]

Just finished rebuilding my slightly modified T03. I'm curious about a few things. First off, I didn't put any oil in it anywhere when I rebuild it. Should I drop some in and spin it a bit before I install it? (By putting oil in it, I mean from the oil feed spot on the top). Also, I was a noob and didn't mark the nut on the intake turbine. Is there a torque spec I could just follow instead?

[onerippinturbo2]

there is a torque spec ( i dont remember it off hand, i have it at work though) also yes, your gonna wanna put oil through it and spin it before you install it, and then you will also wanna prime it before yo ufire the car up (disconnect injector harness and crank till oil light goes out, some guys will also tell you to disconnect the return hose and watch the oil flow out of it, to be sure it does get oil and it goes through it)

[Tranquillity]

Awesome, thanks a lot for the info man. Would be amazing if you were able to pull up the torque specs for me!

[onerippinturbo2]

i can post it up on monday if that works,(first day back to work)

[The Pope]

I would consider pulling off the compressor and oiling the carbon seal......

[onerippinturbo2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by onerippinturbo2 there is a torque spec ( i dont remember it off hand, i have it at work though) also yes, your gonna wanna put oil through it and spin it before you install it, and then you will also wanna prime it before yo ufire the car up (disconnect injector harness and crank till oil light goes out, some guys will also tell you to disconnect the return hose and watch the oil flow out of it, to be sure it does get oil and it goes through it)

ok, according to gpop shop the torque for the shaft nut is simply tighten the nut hand tight until it touches the compressor wheel then turn it with a wrench 1/4 turn for right hand threaded shafts.. for left handed shafts same thing except only go 1/8 turn to tighten left hand threaded shaft nuts.

[Tranquillity]

Awesome. Thanks a ton for the into rippin. Also thanks Pope, I'll do that before I tighten it up!

[Tranquillity]

Are there any other torque specs for this? I've got it back together, oil'd the carbon seal, put the compressor backing plate back on the tightened the wheel nut 1/4 turn, put oil through the in/outlet and have been manually spinning it and it's still quite firm. Is this normal with the new seals or should it spin prett freely? Did I tighten the compressor backing plate too tight maybe?

[The Pope]

I found the real torque spec and posted it in the rebuild thread for the shaft nut. 1/4 is torque to yield type torqueing that doesn't make sense. They have had luck with clearly and don't use a torque wrench. I do this with auto tran adjustment too. But for the rest of the non experianced world torque to spec.

The shaft "cokes" and leaves that black layer on the shaft. You can see where the turbine rides on the bearings, this should be smooth and slick. A new bearing is going to fit the turbine tight, it won't spin super easy like with worn bearings.

Did you oil the shaft and the bearings? I see the other stuff oiled, but the shaft needs it too for start up.

[Tranquillity]

No, I only oiled the carbon seal and put it through the oil passage, I thought that with some manual spinning would of oiled everything else up. Does it not?

[Tranquillity]

Bump. Sorry, I've been watching videos and tinkering and I get the same outcome. Motor will be back by the weekend and I need to get this resolved!

[Tranquillity]

Is there supposed to be anything behind the carbon seal? Looks like there was some goop and 2 shims back there and the seal would actually go in a bit crooked.. Should I remove the 2 shims before putting in the new seal?

[yellonoma]

There should be a spring, then a plate on top (you turn the plate and it gets held in place by the three tabs) then a o-ring, tehn your carbon seal just sits on top of that plate. Not sure what the goop is, and not sure about two shims??

See this picture from g-pop shop, refer to the 4-piece carbon seal



The spring needs to be there so the carbon seal always has pressure on it to seal