2.2 and 2.5 info

[spearscrue]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction for getting info. on the dodge 2.2 and 2.5 4 cyl. engines?. What I am looking for is what year engine blocks are the best to use? what parts are interchangeable between the 2.2 and 2.5? will a 2.2 head fit on a 2.5 block and vise versa? how to indentify a 2.2, 2.5 turbo 1,2,3 blocks by visually looking at them and by numbers stamped/cast into the block? Hopefully someone has printed a book on all this info you can tell me about. Any info would help. Thanks

[detobias]

start with
DDG- The Turbo database page!
from
Donovan's Dodge Garage

[tryingbe]

Then,

The History Of The 2.2L And 2.5L Engines - MiniMopar Resources

and every page

MiniMopar Resources

[The Pope]

Mopar 2.2/FWD: Speed secrets & racing modifications for Chrysler FWD cars: L. S Shepard: Amazon.com: Books

FAQ Section - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

Welcome to Turbododge.com. What is best to use depends on what your building. Then best place to go for this direct info on the 2.2 for basics is the Mopar Performance 2.2 book. The forums are the best place to read on what is current. Web sites like the dodge garage were written over 10 years ago, much of that was proved wrong over time and much of what is done today is different. But on the cheap a great place to start and read. But remember web sites are based off one mans opinion. Books from Mopar are from the factory and forums are the most current discussion on what is going on with them today.

Basically all the heads interchange and the later blocks are Common Blocks and are 2.2 NA, T1, T2, T3 and T4 engines......and 2.5 engines NA and T1. So which parts have to go where has to do with what you plan to build. Even the later Neon heads bolt on the 2.2 and 2.5 BTW. People with 2.8 8v rods in the later 2.4 16v engines. Then a popular mod is the 16v DOHC "PT" lifter in the 8v heads.....

There isn't much that doesn't swap around here lol. But that is one thing I love about these cars, options and easy.

[spearscrue]

Thanks Guys, I am checking out these sites to get as much info as possible. I have a 1987 Dodge shadow shelby csx #18 with the factory 2.2 T1 engine equipped with the shelby computer. I bought this car from my son cause he has since changed his interest to 4x4 trucks. Now a little about myself I am a master a.s.e. certified mechanic and have been turning a wrench since 1991, starting first in a Dodge dealership from 1991 to 1997 specializing in automatic transmissions, moving on to michigan caterpillar working on heavy equipment from 1997 to 2003 and now currently with u.p.s since 2003. So far the modifications done to the car are ported and polished head,exhaust manifold and 2 piece intake manifold, I also have a comp cams cam for it. What I was looking to do with this car is to make approx. 350 h.p. with it, since the T1 short block is not capable of handling this kind of h.p. (so i have been told) I am looking at buying a used short block having the machine work done and assembling it myself, what is the best setup to go with a 2.2 or a 2.5 common block? will my 782 head work on these blocks? and how do you identify a common block? I am just starting this project so I am concentrating on the short block as of now and will move on to the other parts as I progress. What do you all recommend? I Know you all could be wondering on why is a ex Dodge mechanic asking these types of questions? even though i did also do engine rebuilding in my Dodge dealership days, but you have to remember that we never did anything in a dealership beyond o.e.m. Thanks for your input. Shawn

[The Pope]

I worked for Dishman Dodge here, blasting through stock replacements is completely different. I'm sure you won't have leaks and bad electrical connections but power mods are another world lol.

Look first at the stage 1 thread in the FAQ section, then look at stage 2. Your going to want to build a stage 2.

Being what your skilled at your going to want to restore the car first. Poly bushings, struts, etc. IF the engine and trans moves around and the suspension is moving around the car won't hook and work right. RWD muscle cars like sloppy, more weight transfer. You want to kill weight transfer in every direction. Alignment is super important, positive camber "computer" alignments will screw up the car. The car requires negative camber up front, not positive.

Then I would look for the OTC scanners, depending on age you may have used them for OBC 1. You want to get the 2000 or 4000 to watch knock while racing and tuning. Buy a wideband 02 sensor. Having a real signal to the computer helps mileage and you can watch fueling under boost. If you can tune and run a laptop going to the newer 88 up wire harness and a flashable SMEC or SBEC is sweet. If you don't want to go that far, get a stage 5 from FWDperformance.com with 3 bar map and bigger injectors. That is a big step you need to get to, 15 PSI is not where you want to be. Extra injectors and cave man fueling / spark is not the right direction either.

You want to find a 89 up T2 or T4 short block. Going to a common block changes the timing belts and pulleys and the water pump etc. So get a whole engine and add your top end.

These are not V8s, the cam is the last thing you buy. That comp cam will suck without everthing done to use it, not to mention you need to run a roller cam. Look at the FAQ section about lifters and springs etc. Reading the stage 1 and stage 2 threads should be your goal and making sure the car is ready for power. Our resident ASE guru is NAJ.

The 87 CSX is about the best starting point out there. I own a 89 CSX and my brother has a 87 CSX so I am a bit bias lol. It is easy to bolt on the best parts and suspension in the lightest car with those parts. L bodys are much different.

Another method would be buying 2.5 turbo / T2 rods, and forged pistons for the stock block. You can even get the steel crank for it, $200 at autozone. And not change to a different engine BTW.

My brothers CSX is basically stock, ported manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. Runs computer controled boost, 18-20 PSI. Basically the stage 1. About 270 HP and 26 MPG. Stage 2 is a bigger turbo and adding the ported head and more fuel.