I worked for Dishman Dodge here, blasting through stock replacements is completely different. I'm sure you won't have leaks and bad electrical connections but power mods are another world lol.
Look first at the stage 1 thread in the FAQ section, then look at stage 2. Your going to want to build a stage 2.
Being what your skilled at your going to want to restore the car first. Poly bushings, struts, etc. IF the engine and trans moves around and the suspension is moving around the car won't hook and work right. RWD muscle cars like sloppy, more weight transfer. You want to kill weight transfer in every direction. Alignment is super important, positive camber "computer" alignments will screw up the car. The car requires negative camber up front, not positive.
Then I would look for the OTC scanners, depending on age you may have used them for OBC 1. You want to get the 2000 or 4000 to watch knock while racing and tuning. Buy a wideband 02 sensor. Having a real signal to the computer helps mileage and you can watch fueling under boost. If you can tune and run a laptop going to the newer 88 up wire harness and a flashable SMEC
is sweet. If you don't want to go that far, get a stage 5 from FWDperformance.com with 3 bar map
and bigger injectors. That is a big step you need to get to, 15 PSI
is not where you want to be. Extra injectors and cave man fueling / spark is not the right direction either.
You want to find a 89 up T2 or T4 short block. Going to a common block changes the timing belts and pulleys and the water pump etc. So get a whole engine and add your top end.
These are not V8s, the cam is the last thing you buy. That comp cam will suck without everthing done to use it, not to mention you need to run a roller cam. Look at the FAQ section about lifters and springs etc. Reading the stage 1 and stage 2 threads should be your goal and making sure the car is ready for power. Our resident ASE guru is NAJ.
The 87 CSX is about the best starting point out there. I own a 89 CSX and my brother has a 87 CSX so I am a bit bias lol. It is easy to bolt on the best parts and suspension in the lightest car with those parts. L bodys are much different.
Another method would be buying 2.5 turbo / T2 rods, and forged pistons for the stock block. You can even get the steel crank for it, $200 at autozone. And not change to a different engine BTW.
My brothers CSX is basically stock, ported manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. Runs computer controled boost, 18-20 PSI
. Basically the stage 1. About 270 HP and 26 MPG. Stage 2 is a bigger turbo and adding the ported head and more fuel.