Forged Crank

[noelracer]

I'm putting the block back to gether in my 86 Laser XT over the winter and I wanted to know if I should be good to go ahead and assemble everything. I took the original 86 non common block, and had it bored out .020 over to fit the forged JE pistons from forward motion, I had them ceramic coated with the teflon skirts, I got rid of the stock crank and got a forged crank from a shelby daytona milled and polished, t2 rods reconditioned and re-shot-peened, and the whole engine balanced. What else do I need to do or should I be good to go?

One thing, Mike at forward motion said I needed to grind down a spot in the block near the second cylinder for the forged crank will clear. Does anyone know anything about that?

[GLHNSLHT2]

1st I've heard of it

[onerippinturbo2]

same here, i've built more non common block engines then i can remember and i've never ran into an issue with a forged crank not fitting right in.

[G Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by noelracer I'm putting the block back to gether in my 86 Laser XT over the winter and I wanted to know if I should be good to go ahead and assemble everything. I took the original 86 non common block, and had it bored out .020 over to fit the forged JE pistons from forward motion, I had them ceramic coated with the teflon skirts, I got rid of the stock crank and got a forged crank from a shelby daytona milled and polished, t2 rods reconditioned and re-shot-peened, and the whole engine balanced. What else do I need to do or should I be good to go? One thing, Mike at forward motion said I needed to grind down a spot in the block near the second cylinder for the forged crank will clear. Does anyone know anything about that?

I have something simular, I bought my .020 JE pistons from mike a long time ago, I didn't have them teflon coated though. I used a non common T2 block but added the Mopar Performance billet main caps. I had the deck O ringed and run the 008 MP headgasket. You sound like your good to go, but the main caps on that block aren't as beefy as the common block. At the time I couldn't find a T2 common block and the MP main caps were still available for order from the local Dodge dealer.

I never heard of the issue with swapping in the forged crank, it's the same block as the 87'-88' T2 blocks except for the cross drilling between the cylinders.

[The Pope]

I haven't heard of the block not clearing, could be possible I suppose as the T2 blocks then were cross drilled and a little different. But block casting? Doubt it.

With the older engine you could get ARP main studs to add to the bottom end, they are really cheap to buy.

[GLHNSLHT2]

you can get ARP main studs for the CB too. I have a set :)

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 you can get ARP main studs for the CB too. I have a set :)

been a while but I think they are the same studs.

[Glhs60]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope been a while but I think they are the same studs.

Non common block are shorter.

Thanks
Randy

[Ythorse]

it never hurts 2 do a clearance assembly . mike knows what hes talkin about. I use the same machine shop he does and theyre big on line boring . so ur flex tolerance could b a litl 2 close. Betr safe than sorry.

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glhs60 Non common block are shorter. Thanks Randy

actually had a set right behind my computer lol.

ARP 141-5401 is the only part number ARP lists for the 2.2 / 2.5 for mains. It is listed as a 81-94 application with Summitracing. So the bolts may be different but the main stud kit isn't.

ARP Main Stud Kits 141-5401 - SummitRacing.com

[detobias]

+1 on the clearance assembly -
start puttin' it together :)

you didnt mention HP goal,
but the stock main caps/bolts are good to at least 275-
which is beyond? / at the limit of the early blocks... (DDG claims 250 Hp max ..)
the MP main caps with studs would help -some - if you plan to push that

havent done it myself,
but isnt there a bit of beneficial porting to do with the oil pump/block interface ?

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by detobias +1 on the clearance assembly - start puttin' it together :) you didnt mention HP goal, but the stock main caps/bolts are good to at least 275- which is beyond? / at the limit of the early blocks... (DDG claims 250 Hp max ..) the MP main caps with studs would help -some - if you plan to push that havent done it myself, but isnt there a bit of beneficial porting to do with the oil pump/block interface ?

that section of TDG is laughable as Shadow runs the early block

I don't know where this opinion came up with Gary, maybe Shadow uses ARP main studs and that makes the bottom end worth another 350 HP? LMAO the early block WITH LW rods can handle 270 no problem with computer controled boost lol.

[Glhs60]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope actually had a set right behind my computer lol. ARP 141-5401 is the only part number ARP lists for the 2.2 / 2.5 for mains. It is listed as a 81-94 application with Summitracing. So the bolts may be different but the main stud kit isn't. ARP Main Stud Kits 141-5401 - SummitRacing.com

I can't comment on this current Summit kit but they were considered not optimal in the past as they were too short for commonblocks.

FWD Performance correctly lists a different kit for common block.


Name: ARP Common Block Main Studs
Part Number: FWD 39-0632
Description:
Main stud put together specifically for the 89-up common block including the t-3 block. The 6 inner studs are longer than the 4 outer studs to accomadate the common block configuration.

Non common block FWD 39 0153

Thanks
Randy

[GLHNSLHT2]

yup, TU has them as well for $4 cheaper :)

[Ythorse]

so what ur saying is that from experience tne Summit mains kit wont work in a common block or u prefer 2 use whats avail from cindy or Tu ???