Cast vs forged crankshaft - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

Engine - Turbo & Block Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output & Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank.

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post #1 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Cast vs forged crankshaft

Since the forged is 25 pounds heavier...at what point would you toss the cast and use the forged?
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 08:13 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

whenever I could get my hands on a forged I would. From what I have read though the cast is pretty good for most applications.
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 08:39 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

At what point? Any point really. Pretty much if I'm buying a crankshaft, and I was able to get a forged one, I would.
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

Ok. I am going to be running about 400 horsepower but a good worked cast is ok from what I hear. But Guess I will be using my forged. Thanks guys.
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 10:07 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

forged may not be needed but they are soo much smoother. There may be some weight gain but so what, adding the aluminum flywheel will get you far past that quickly. There is a lot to be lost too going with H beam rods and forged pistons. Makes going to a forged crank in weight not a negitive at all. Rumor has it and with the cars I've noticed over time is that forged cranks squish rod bearings with detonation. But normally a 2.2 hits that hard and the pistons are gone anyway lol.
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-24-2013, 10:50 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

what does a squished rod bearing look like?
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 09:09 AM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

like this guy when hes flat ny way the purpose of going with the cast crank is that ur saving the money cause u ve already got it or ur trying 2 save weight 2 have the reciprocating assy spin up faster . a cast crank will b good around 300 hp . if u have the opportunity 2 get the forged grab it , just sit on it till u need it latr getn harder 2 find .
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 10:22 AM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canty View Post
Since the forged is 25 pounds heavier...at what point would you toss the cast and use the forged?
Wow, where did you hear that forged 2.2 cranks are 25 LBS heavier? Maybe 25lbs heavier than a 3 cylinder Geo Metro crank. Take a look at this pic. Not even billet Masi crank is 25 lbs heavier.
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 11:19 AM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

I would have to agree w/Pope above in that my forged steel crank motors are a lot smoother running engines. I mean they actually sound and feel different and they rev smoother overall. I thought it was just me the first time but there is a noticeable difference. I also have one of those TurboUnleashed lightweight steel flywheels (not the full race one)so throttle response is very good even with the additional weight of the forged crank. The extra smoothness of the forged crank is so noticeable, I will always build w/a forged crank now whenever it is financially viable and parts are available.
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 11:22 AM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by going4speed View Post
what does a squished rod bearing look like?
mauls it spitting a sharp edge of aluminum out the side of the rod.
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 11:28 AM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

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Originally Posted by 4 L-bodies View Post
Wow, where did you hear that forged 2.2 cranks are 25 LBS heavier? Maybe 25lbs heavier than a 3 cylinder Geo Metro crank. Take a look at this pic. Not even billet Masi crank is 25 lbs heavier.
They are very heavy though, just the weight doesn't go up much between 2.2 cranks unless you go 2.2 cast to masi. The 2.5 cast crank and the 2.2 steel are closer in weight.

Last time I weighed them at the machine shop I got 45 pounds for a steel CB crank and 38 lbs for a 360 V8 crank. For those that haven't tried it weigh the rods and the carnk of a T2 VS small block Chevy crank and rods.
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 03:35 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

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Originally Posted by The Pope View Post
They are very heavy though, just the weight doesn't go up much between 2.2 cranks unless you go 2.2 cast to masi. The 2.5 cast crank and the 2.2 steel are closer in weight.

Last time I weighed them at the machine shop I got 45 pounds for a steel CB crank and 38 lbs for a 360 V8 crank. For those that haven't tried it weigh the rods and the carnk of a T2 VS small block Chevy crank and rods.
I was just putting the bottom end together on my hybrid build and the forged crank is heavy duty!!!! My dad was saying that my 4 cylinder crank was heavier than the old v8 cranks he was used to. He loved how heavy duty it was. lol I needed to take the loaded bottom end off the engine stand... told my dad to zip it off while I held it. Holy crap its alot heavier loaded.
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 04:10 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

chevy machine shop people get pissy, the T2 rod is twice the rod and longer than there rods. Not to mention the crank. They consider the 2.2 stuff to be a "waste of metal" LMAO. Better a bit too much than too little, but that is why Mopars cost less to race. The stuff from the factory is that tough.
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 04:23 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

this is why the "need" for steel isn't there so much until your way up there in power.

There is a difference though. When I was a kid I would build Mopars, stock bottom ends to run 12s. I've got the stock heads almost 9s with porting and nitrous in a full body steel street car. Then in 90 I ran mid 14s with the log.

My Chevy friends cracked pistons, pulled rocker studs, ran cams flat, tossed rods, etc etc running the same power.

The import thing was beginning back then in the early 90s, my friend here was and is a HUGE VW guy and built a race rabbit. 15K he put into this thing and I went over to visit him after he got it going. Extrude honed (big money) intake with custom larger TB, big valve ported head, bored and stroked to 2.0L, etc etc. I said wow that thing must really move how much power does it have? He was ACTUALLY really excited about it making 150 HP and I feel over laughing. So he got bent over it and I explained my Dodge came with 10" vented disks, a 1" solid sway bar, 15 x 6" wheels and 205 50 15 tires, a 146 HP, a body kit and all of that STOCK. I spent $109 + tax and had 14 PSI with the MP computer...

I won't get into the train cars full of Honda's I've seen blow up trying to keep up. The VW is at least tough.

But when most building the 2.2 get started they are thinking of doing a ton of massive build parts to make any power. except for the 270 HP LW rod engines, all other engines are a 400 HP engine rebuilt to stock specs with good tuning. Not many engines in the 4 banger range can say that. AND if you do see them they are 20 years newer than the Dodge. One older tough engine is the Ford 2.3, but American.....

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post #15 of 18 Old 02-25-2013, 04:35 PM
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Re: Cast vs forged crankshaft

I prefer a forged crank anytime I can get one.

However think about this. Reciprocating weight slows acceleration. If I was racing I might consider a lighter crank, rods, etc and rebuild more often. I allways thought those lightweight small block chevy components helped them in acceleration. They really kill toughness though. I have a friend with a 2 ton bob truck (ten wheeler) that runs a 350 chevy. He is ALLWAYS having trouble with his engine breaking things. My IH 345 (built heaver than a big block chevy) has over 250,000 miles and is finally getting loose. Both trucks are used on our farms.

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