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Engine - Turbo & Block Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output & Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank.

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Old 04-06-2013, 08:29 PM   #1
Soo,you don't cool your turbo down...  
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Some pictures I took when I rebuilt a Garrett for the Turbo Van. These were the result of cleaning out the passages.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:52 AM   #2
Re: Soo,you don't cool your turbo down...  
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I have been saying the very same thing about proper cool down times to increase the lifespan of the turbo's. Known about it since 1984 with my first Z car.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:48 PM   #3
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Have always let the turbo cool down before I shut it down. In over 12 years now I have yet to wipe out a turbo. Every time I've changed up, the turbo coming off has been as minty as when I installed it fresh :)

And Yes, this includes the turbo's I've been running at over 35psi boost.
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:14 PM   #4
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Can anyone recommend a turbo timer that is easy to hook up?
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:56 PM   #5
Re: Soo,you don't cool your turbo down...  
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I usually let the car run at least a minute or three, is that long enough?
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:44 PM   #6
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How old was that turbo dme? Factory or a past rebuild?
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:19 PM   #7
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Use synthetic oil.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:49 AM   #8
Re: Soo,you don't cool your turbo down...  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellonoma View Post
How old was that turbo dme? Factory or a past rebuild?
That turbo came from a junk yard shelf. Surprisingly, the shaft play wasn't that bad before I rebuilt it. It has been great ever since.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Wayne in NJ View Post
I usually let the car run at least a minute or three, is that long enough?
Depends on driving habbits. If you have good turbo driving habbits and stay out of boost for the last 2-5min of your driving, then you could shut it down 15-30sec after parking your car.

If, on the other hand, your in boost all the time, but still fairly regular spirited driving, then I would say 2-3min before shutting it down.

If your a maniac, and your WOT all the time and run on the ragged edge and pull into your parking spot Full hot and just out of a WOT blast, I would say let it cool for 5 min before shut down.

Also, the larger the turbo, the faster damage will occur from this. (ie. a small turbo like the mitts on our cars can suffer hot shut down and coking and still function relatively well because there isn't enough weight on the shaft (turbine wheel size) to cause serious problems. As the turbine wheel/shaft gets larger bearing failure become more imminent and a really hot shutdown can bend the shaft and end with the turbine wheel exiting the turbine housing)

After every pass at the track (39psi last fall) I let the Charger idle for 3-5min back at the pit or if I'm back in staging before shutting down. Now this may be over kill, because I have the whole trip back down the return road for it to cool off out of boost, but like I said, never had a turbo failure, so why change a good thing :)

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Use synthetic oil.
Everyone should be using synthetic oil by now And keep your oil Clean!
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #10
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If your a maniac, and your WOT all the time and run on the ragged edge and pull into your parking spot Full hot and just out of a WOT blast, I would say let it cool for 5 min before shut down.
Haha.. ummm good to know... I just get out of that gutless Saturn and hop in the 'tona and I get boost hungry


But seriously, good info. However what do you mean by keep oil clean, my bottom end is a well used unit prior to me, so the oil turns black with a touch of gold by 1000km, I change oil around 4000-5000km using synthetic.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:22 AM   #11
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I am resurecting glhs 313 and pulled the pan because it was smacked and leaking.

The amount of sludge in the bottom of the pan was amazing. I think a periodic dropping of the pan and cleaning it would not be a bad idea. Especially if you dont know the full history of the motor. I dont know that running it and changing the oil would have grabbed all that junk.

How hard is it to rebuild your own turbo? Where would you get a kit for that on say a garret tII?
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:07 PM   #12
Re: Soo,you don't cool your turbo down...  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellonoma View Post
But seriously, good info. However what do you mean by keep oil clean, my bottom end is a well used unit prior to me, so the oil turns black with a touch of gold by 1000km, I change oil around 4000-5000km using synthetic.
The concern is wether the oil is broken down or not, with a health mtr you can usually judge this by color, but with older mtrs like yours that may not have been maintained properly this can be harder to do.

How broken down does the oil feel when you change it? (ie. does it still have a thick slip feel to it, or is it very thin and is almost like water between your fingers?)

How much oil does the mtr consume between oil changes and more importantly, When does the oil consumption seems to get worse?

eg. Friend of mine had a 2.5 turbo mtr that would turn fresh oil black in the first 1000kms or so. (still had hint of gold) but it wouldn't use any oil till around 2500km's. If he didn't change the oil by 4000kms it would dble in it's consumption (burning it) He changed his oil every 3500kms because of this and that mtr lasted him a long time with no other issues.

Now, he also drove that car Hard and was always 15+ psi boost. Remember, heat breaks things down sooner, so if he were to drive around like a normal human being, he could have gone longer before breaking down his oil and having to change it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:11 PM   #13
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Side question, what snap ring pliers do you use to get at the really small clip inside the housing? Assuming it has one like Holsets do.
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