Turbo trouble

Hi all,

Someone on the Mopar Chat forum steered me here. My son and I recently put an '87 LeBaron 2.2 turbo engine and trans into his '91 Daytona 2.5 NA. We swapped the wiring harness, fuel pump, and trans as well. The 2.2 was running and had 180K+ miles on it. When it was pushed to over 3500 rpm it would act as if the fuel and/or spark were shut off all together and not pick up again until the rpm's got down below 3K. About four months later the turbo quit working. These things must have real low compression; the engine runs fine, but it's a dog without the turbo. Then, after about a week, it began to have heavy amounts of oil in the breather. I took the turbo off last night and I can stick my fingers in there and feel that the turbine is loose and rattly.
Questions:
1. Could it be that the ECM was seeing too much boost and shutting things down at a certain rpm, or what?
2. Is the oil problem due to the oil getting past the turbo bearings and then being slung into the breather or is it just coincidence?
3. I don't know where to begin to look for replacing this thing. Like what turbos will work and what all to replace.
4. How do I check to see if the wastegate is working properly? What signal is coming from the ECM and if the solenoid is working as well. Maybe new wastegates come with replacement units. If so, how do I check the ECM and solenoid?

Sorry to be so long winded. I'm just turbo illiterate and am afraid it went bad because of something I did or didn't do during the swap. Although it may have been on its last leg anyway since it had so many miles on it and has not been run for the better part of two years.

Anyway, we appreciate any help.

Scott.

[glhsken]

You came to the right place.

1.) Yes the turbo could just have been on its last legs.

2.) check the compression on each slug.

3.) Sounds like the cam timing was off a tooth if the car was fine to 3500/4k then fell flat.. Either that or the map sensor was not right.

4.) Check the codes. turn key on/off 3 times and stop in the on position (while not engaging the starter). the check engine light will flash the codes.

5.) The turbo's are easily replaced. less than $400 for a stock unit rebuilt.

Since I'm going to replace the turbo, what should I get? I see that there are a number of options out there (Garrett, Mitsubishi, xI,II,III, etc.) I'm assuming mine is a Mitsubishi, but don't know.
Should I get another waste gate? It takes quite some effort to actuate it by hand. How in the world does a little vacuum signal move that thing?

Thanks,
Scott

[86Shelby]

Quote:

Originally posted by ZSS Since I'm going to replace the turbo, what should I get?

I would simply stay with a stock Garrett. Everything will still bolt up and you won't have to modify anything further.

Quote:

Originally posted by ZSS It takes quite some effort to actuate it by hand. How in the world does a little vacuum signal move that thing?

The vacuum signal doesn't move the armature. Boost pressure does. The boost control solenoid turns on and off quickly to regulate the amount of pressure going through the vacuum line to the wategate canister. A few psi of pressure gets that armature moving.


I agree with Ken about checking the cam timing and also the MAP sensor to make sure thaty is the one for a turbo application.