If you plan to rebuild your own turbo there are a few things you should know.
1. Its a good idea to index your compressor wheel to the turbine shaft(I use a
light tap with a small chisle so I can line the marks up again upon reassembly).
2.Broken bolts are almost certian to happen. (before disassembly soak the
turbo down good with penitrating fluid for a few days .Then degrease with
brake cleaner before you start to dissassemble). If the bolts start to strip
from the wrench STOP, switch to a hammer and a chisle to turn them out by
striking bolt head across the rotation plane with the chisle. It helps to
hammer strait in at first to create a good ledge for the chisle to bite on. A
small set of good quality vice grips can be ground down on the sides to make
them thin enough to get in to the tight places can also help. Trust me when I
say that the HARDEST part of a turbo rebuild is the teardown.)
3. When a bolt does break extracting will be required. ( A person could really
write a novel on the methods of extraction.) Taking it to a machine shop is
the First option you may want to consider if you don't have alot of experience
or specialized tools. It costs you more but may save you alot of flustration
and decrease the chance of ruining a casting. If you do feel the urge to
tackle extraction yourself a 5/16 LEFT HAND DRILL BIT would be the first
method of attack I'd use. These bits are hard to find but they are out there. A
drill press or mill that is reversible is a must for this operation l as is a good drill
vice or better yet a milling table. Be shure to center the drill DEAD ON use a
center drill to start the operation. Before drilling, clamp the peice down SOLID
so there is no chance of movement once you begin <all the better a reason to
use a mill table to expidite tool alighnment.> now begin drilling remember to
have your drill in reverse (counter clockwise). As the drill plunges there is a
50% chance it will turn the busted bolt out in the process, if it does not mind
your drilling depth as to not ruin the casting. If the bolt doesn't back out
during the drilling operation buy yourself a 8mm x 1.25 pitch tap and retap the
hole (you may have to chamfer the top of the hole a bit to start the tap. You
could also try the average EASYOUT method but it has NEVER worked for me
and in a few cases worked AGAINST me by snapping off in the hole requiring
even more drastic extraction methods to avoid scrapping a casting.
4. There are three different types of seal systems used in garrett turbos:
"dynamic seal", "encapsulated carbon seal", and a "floating carbon seal".
Research the differences thouroghly and know which type your turbo uses
before ordering a rebuild kit.
5. soak heavily carbon deposited parts in a old crock pot full of auto trany fluid
for a day or two. This is the best method ive found to deal with cleaning and
has produced awsome results. you can also fill it with simple green for a poor
mans hot-tank. albiet for small parts only.
Theres a lot more to rebuilding a turbo than what it appers on the surface.
Thats probably why so little info is available on the net concerning this subject
and thats why a reman turbo seemingly costs so much, but after you build one
you will appreciate the remanufacures position in a whole new light.
good luck,
DRAVEN
TurboDodge.com 
