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01-18-2005, 12:03 PM
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#1
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What kind of turbo?
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
My Ride: 87 Shelby daytona T2
Engine: 2.5 bored 0.20
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.785
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87 daytona 3000 lb, 2.5, cummins intercooler, 5spd, 3" exhaust, ported exh manifold. What kind of turbo? Would a super 60 turbo work well or some hybrid? Daily driver with some drag action.
__________________
87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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01-18-2005, 12:07 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by cawcislo
87 daytona 3000 lb, 2.5, cummins intercooler, 5spd, 3" exhaust, ported exh manifold. What kind of turbo? Would a super 60 turbo work well or some hybrid? Daily driver with some drag action.
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Your best bet is to get ahold of the vendors, IE www.********************, they will give you better answers than us. But a nice T3T4 50 trim with a .63 a/r would work great for yah!
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01-18-2005, 02:48 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB
My Ride: DOdge Shadow ES
Engine: 2.5l
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.160
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That's what I just put on my car and I like it alot and we have very similar combos. It spools by 3500 and pulls hard from there. I met you when you came down to Edmonton (the guy with the red shadow). Check my page if you want to see it.
DJ
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01-18-2005, 04:04 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2003
1/4: 0.000
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Super 60,s work well, i have a super 60 (real super 60) on a 2.5. front mount spearo, plus 40,s c.i. comp. Combo is in a 2 door sundance (dean stillies old one) Boosts excellent and pulls real hard at only 13psi (-20 winter right now) has a t-track posi in it and lights up the 225 50 16,s all thru 2nd from a 50k roll on. Car has 2.5 mandrel exhaust.
Can,t wait till summer when the boost goes up. This car ran 13.9 at 18psi, 14.3 at 14 psi and i believe it may of been on street tires(could be wrong). 2.5,s and super 60,s work gooood for a daily driver, street/strip racer.
hope this helps
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01-18-2005, 09:37 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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what do you want the car to do? everyone will give you their turbo as a best bet.....as i would prob. do the same. but i already want more, in time of course.
with the 2.5, i think you have enough bottom end to make up for a pretty large turbo, say the t3/t04e 50 or 57?
i like mine for the street(super 46 wheel), although im sure we all have heard different opinions on the t04e wheel in a stock cover, though its not the best type of hybrid, it works well and will put more power down than a s-60 and the s-70. with a stock fit and location it works for me. it will flow more than a stock head, and prob. would kick butt on a ported big valve. but i will have a true t4 in good time.
my - 0.02$
oh, full spool by about 35-3800 ish.(18-20 psi)
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01-18-2005, 10:21 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PA
My Ride: 88 Shadow
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I'm using an S70 with the .63 stage 1 turbine. Since you have a 2.5 you definitely want to go with the .63 no matter what you do. I find my S70 works very well and is VERY powerful. I noticed a big power increase just swapping turbo's from a stock T2. Oh, full boost of 22 PSI around 3500 RPM is very nice too(with 2.5'' exhaust, 3'' coming soon so it should be even faster spoolup).....and this is with a 2.2L you would do better with a 2.5 obviously.
The super 70 dwarf's the super 60 with a 10mm bigger exducer. The inducer is just a hair bigger like 2mm. The super 46 T04E isn't much bigger than the S70 adam, it's your stage 2 wheel in the turbine that helps you out power wise....that wheel lets the exhaust out quite well for a 2.2 and should support 350+ WHP. The compressor can't, but I'm just saying that the turbine is good to go.
For a daily driver going to a full hybrid just gets pretty laggy. I cannot wait until I get my 3'' exhaust because I hate even how laggy my turbo is now.
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01-18-2005, 10:39 PM
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#7
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
My Ride: 87 Shelby daytona T2
Engine: 2.5 bored 0.20
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.785
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Turboshad: Did you have all that stuff installed in your shadow when I was down? You did a lot of nice work there. Thing should pull like nuts now. You're the engineer... I don't recall your name though. It's way too cold right now to do any work on the car, but just getting some ideas for when spring rolls around.
__________________
87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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01-19-2005, 01:34 AM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB
My Ride: DOdge Shadow ES
Engine: 2.5l
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.160
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I was in the process of finishing the engine when you were down. I got everything in in October so I didn't get much time to play with it before the snow fell. Actually it came the night I finished. But there were a couple warm weeks after that I had some fun (once it was all broken in). Lets just say nothings to usefull until third and sometimes fourth gear. Up till then there's nothing but smokin tires.
DJ
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01-19-2005, 11:22 AM
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#9
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
My Ride: 87 Shelby daytona T2
Engine: 2.5 bored 0.20
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.785
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I know quite a bit about these cars, but I'm still green when it comes to all the detail regarding turbos. Help me get a better grasp of what the difference is between say a t2 turbo and a super 60 and a hybridt3/t4 50 trim for example.
Comp Hous A/R Exh Hous A/R Comp Induc Comp Exduc Exh turb dia
Stock t2 .42 .48 42mm 60 mm 48mm
S60 .42 .63 48.5 mm 60mm 48mm
t3/t4 50 .42 ? .63 50mm ? ? ?
Help fill in the gaps for me. Help me with my understanding..... Exhaust housing on a S60 or t3/t4 turbo I would want the larger .63 housing to help with exhaust flow, but this creates lag, but with a 2.5 and a stick shouldn't really notice any difference. Comp Induce and exducer...(what exactly is this), the measurement of the compressor wheel (inducer... where air comes in) (exducer... where air is compressed)? Basically all three turbos above use the same centre section. Next the s60 and t3/t4 50 gets a larger exhaust housing. The compressor housing is also the same between the 3 turbos? Or does it get modified? and of course the compressor wheel changes, but the exahust wheel stays the same (or is it modified)? Sory for the all questions... Thanks guys.
__________________
87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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01-19-2005, 12:13 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB
My Ride: DOdge Shadow ES
Engine: 2.5l
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.160
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I'll give you what I know, but I don't have any books with me right now so if I get something wrong then some one chime in.
 Quote:
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Comp Hous A/R Exh Hous A/R Comp Induc Comp Exduc Exh turb dia
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I was in the process of explaining all this but then I found this site which will explain most of it for you.
http://www.turbominivan.com/tech/turbo201.htm
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Basically all three turbos above use the same centre section.
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correct
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The compressor housing is also the same between the 3 turbos?
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As the A/R increases the compressor housing becomes lager for any given "family" of turbos. The S60 is part of the T3 family where as the hybrid will have a compressor from the T4 family which is larger thatn the T3 family. To use a hybrid you must make a piece so the outlet clears the head. (you can see it on my page.
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but the exahust wheel stays the same (or is it modified)?
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The exhaust wheel stays the same because the hybrids use a T4 compressor with a T3 turbine. With the turbine you can choose between a stage I, II, or III. This has to do with the pitch of the turbine blades (from what I understand). A larger satge will flow more exhaust and therfore produce more top end power but of course have more lag. I have a stage II on mine and the lag really isn't bad at all.
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01-19-2005, 12:47 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by turboshad
A larger satge will flow more exhaust and therfore produce more top end power but of course have more lag. I have a stage II on mine and the lag really isn't bad at all.
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You might have that backwards? I have an auto and was sold a stage 3, for less lag?
Ok, to clarify from Chris, the stages are wheel sizes, so stage 2 is smaller than stage 3, thats how lag is affected. I was sold the stage 3 as the auto takes care of the spooling/lag issue and reduces it. The larger the stage, the more power its capable of making.
Last edited by turbovanman; 01-19-2005 at 01:35 PM.
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01-19-2005, 04:17 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PA
My Ride: 88 Shadow
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Yeah the turbominivan site is good tech info there. The super 70 has a 50mm inducer and 70 exducer. You want to get a turbine that matches the compressor. The ''stages'' of the turbine refers to how big the inducer/exducer are and the pitch of the blades will be different too. IMO you should never go more than stage 2 on a daily driver 5 speed. Stage 1 refers to the stock turbine wheel, a .48 turbine housing and a .63 housing are interchangeable as long as you have the same stage wheel for each. A stage 2 has a larger inducer and exducer and the blades are angled out slightly more, this lets exhuast out much easier but also causes more lag. A stage 3 has the same inducer as stage 2 but the exducer is bigger and the blades are angled out even more.
As I said before you want to keep a matched compressor and turbine. Like for an extreme example you wouldn't want a stock T2 with a .63 stage 3. You shouldn't go more than .63 stage 1 with a stock or super 60 turbo. For a super 70 I wouldn't go more than stage 2, I used a stage 1 for mine but I have a 2.2L. When you start getting into hybrids IMO it's more of a pain than it's worth on a daily driver. Anything up to a super 70 (or even T4 wheels inside the stock cover) is good enough for a daily driver. Unless you plan on getting the TU header you have to make 2 90 degree elbows for the T04 cover to clear the head if you are using the stock exhuast manifold.
A super 70 with a .63 stage 2 is gonna be your best bet. It's easy because it uses the stock cover which has the jut-out to clear the head. Also I found it real easy to use the stock lower T2 hose and run 2.25'' pipe from the end of it to hook up my dual core. It's a lot easier than fabbing up a hose to run up and over the tranny and down to the front end.
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01-19-2005, 04:18 PM
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#13
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
My Ride: 87 Shelby daytona T2
Engine: 2.5 bored 0.20
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.785
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I've learned a lot and the link to the turbo page was great. So t4 compressor housings are larger than t3 which require some modifications. Looks like you welded on an extention to the compressor housing. Did you have to modify the head (some people had to shave theirs down a bit). Do you know if the stock oil feed/return and coolant feed/return need any modifications due to clearance of the t3 compressor housing? Also... how do you like the TU calibration. How are cold starts (we both know how cold it gets in Canada). Idle quality? You mentioned a dual stage computer with a high and low setting. HOw does that work? Thanks, too bad the car wasn't done when I was down... would have loved to take a spin in it, looks like a ton of fun.
__________________
87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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01-19-2005, 05:27 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: SOHC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Cawcislo, want a near perfect match for you 2.5 5spd? T04B .60 A/R comp. housing with a T04E 50 Trim wheel, matched to a .63 A/R turbine housing with a stage II wheel, no need for *two* 90 degrees or shaving of the head, just a 45 degree elbow and all the turbo lines fit perfectly over it too, just need one 90 degree adapter at turbo for coolant return.
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01-19-2005, 05:42 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PA
My Ride: 88 Shadow
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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My TU cal is great. Starts fine, idles better than the stock ECU. I have 22 inches of vacuum at idle. I had paul re-do my cal as a single stage since I use a grainger anyway. Only if you don't use a grainger is a 2 stage is functional, I didn't know this at the time.
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