PRIMING TURBO AFTER RE & RE

[STPVIPER]

Just Swapped My Turbo On My 86' Daytona, And Just Wondering What - If Any, Start-up/break-in Procedures? Thanks In Advance

[STPVIPER]

I Pulled The Turbo Off My Old Motor, So No Rebuilder Info For Priming. Help Would Be Great.

[turbovanman]

Disconnecting the HEP is a better way. That way you disable the spark and the fuel injectors won't spray so you don't flood the engine with fuel. Also, remove spark plugs so theres no load on the bearings etc.

[Subliminal]

Touche, Simon!

[juxsa]

hehe.... i just put the turbo on, put the head back on, and then started my car.... guese I did it the completely wrong way

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris W I agree on preventing unnecessary fuel spray during testing, especially with the gas prices climbing every day. However, the fuel may not be a factor by the time the oil return hose is slipped back in place, the hose tightened and the car dropped back down to the ground off the jack stands. I disagree with pulling the spark plugs. Garrett's priming instructions do not specify that this be done. Removing the plugs will only increase cranking RPMs which may provide false results. We had a customer's turbo repeatedly fail only to find out he had dripping oil at cranking speed (Plugs in) and steady stream at idle. He felt this was okay enough but it obviously wasn't. Chris-TU

Your typical cranking time for a complete prime is usually 30-60 secs. That is a shitload of fuel in the cylinders which will wash rings etc, which could also contaminate the new oil which should be in there-right guys!
As for removing the spark plugs, 2 fold-the increased rpm is barely noticeable and won't cause a new turbo to fail, if it does, the turbo was junk to begin with and 2nd, it severely reduces the load on the starter-touch the starter after 30 secs with the plugs in, bet you can't.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris W Refering back STPVIPER's situation, I understood this to be just a turbo swap not a freshly built motor. I agree with you Simon if this was a fresh motor that was not pre-primed, you would need 30 to 60 seconds of cranking to pressurize the system. I'm talking about 15 seconds max to prime the system on an existing motor, not freshly rebuilt. Once again, removing the plugs would be a good idea if this was a freshly built motor or one that has sat unused for a long time. Chris-TU

Granted but he should have changed his oil and filter, so basically, he's priming from scratch, but granted, its probably lower than 30 secs,

[xrattiracer]

the only way you could even potentially harm turbo bearings is by holding it to the floor when it starts, and even that wouldnt do it i dont think. theres plenty of oil already in the bearings to stop damage at idle since the turbo isnt experiencing any load, the same amount that would be in there after a normal shutdown.
but if you do insist on "priming" the system, save yourself alot of trouble and just floor the pedal while cranking, the ecu will shut off the injectors.

[Putter]

If the timing belt is off, stick your air rachet on the nut holding the intermediate shaft sproket on, set the rachet to clockwise, and goto town, it'll spin freely at first, then the oil pressure will hit and bog your rachet down, just run it a bit, if its been sitting a long long time, maybe turn the eninge 180* and run the ratchet some more.

[STPVIPER]

I've Done An Oil/filter Change, And The Turbo I Put On Was Sitting Outside For The Last Year, So It Probably Has A Lot Of Moisture In It. So Should I Just Disconnect The Coil Wire And The Injector Rail And Crank It For About 30 Seconds? Would That Be Sufficient?

[STPVIPER]

?????

[stampederunner]

If that turbo was just sitting outside unprotected for a year I would not even mess with instaling it without having it rebuilt. I'm not saying it would have to be rebuilt, but I wouldnt want it on my car.