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Engine - Turbo Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output.

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Old 05-16-2005, 03:13 PM   #1
Turbo II install  
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I have a turbo II garett that, I'd like to install on my van. Can the stock Mitsu be pulled, while on the van, or do I have to pull the head? Will I need any new lines? I have new mitsu lines already, and the other lines on the turbo II turbo have been cut at the rubbers.
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:29 PM   #2
 
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You should probably do a search on this one. This has been discussed a zillion bazillion kazillion million times.

PS - Pull the head.
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:59 PM   #3
 
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the mitsu lines will not work afaik. you might be able to make them work but it might be a good excuse to step up and get a nice set of braided lines from one of our wonderful vendors.
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:02 PM   #4
 
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Ditto pull the head. |A lot less grief. And you can get it RIGHT and see what your doing.
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:53 PM   #5
 
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I may sell the turbo then rather than pull the head again, two times in 3 months, is all the practice I need. Pulling the head is something I'm not looking forward to, and new headbolts, new head gasket, and coolant.
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:46 PM   #6
 
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I swapped the turbo from my omni to my shadow yesterday with the heads on both cars. I can tell you that it is easier to pull the head, and will probably take less time. However doing it with the head on works just the same in the end, and it is a money saver.
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Old 05-17-2005, 07:25 PM   #7
 
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Thanks, cordes. Any list of tools to use to make life easier? Did you pull the exhaust manifold at the same time?
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Old 05-17-2005, 07:58 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by ourturbovan
Thanks, cordes. Any list of tools to use to make life easier? Did you pull the exhaust manifold at the same time?
Yeah, I guess I should have added that I had to bust out about every wrench in my inventory to get the job done. racheting wrenches are a must in my opinion. I just pulled off the turbo, and not the whole manifold. I found that my long pattern wrenches gave me the added torque I needed to get the bolts loose without killing myself. for the upper bolt on the drivers side, I found that it was much eiser to use about a 6" extension and a standard 12pt. 15mm 3/8 drive socket to remove it, as it is about impossible to get a wrench in there. Heat from my map gas torch was a great help in getting the stuck nuts on my omni loose.

Thats about it, but dont give up when the going gets rough you can get it off and back on there. It does save a good ammount of money when you start adding things up, but it is a much more physical job.

Good luck.
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Old 05-22-2005, 12:31 PM   #9
 
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shorty ratchet wrenches or regular. I'll have to see if I can borrow some long pattern wrenches.

Last edited by ourturbovan; 05-22-2005 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 05-22-2005, 06:00 PM   #10
 
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Regular racheting wrenches were used. Once you get them loose the space is not that bad so long as they are racheting.
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Old 05-22-2005, 07:03 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
Once you get them loose

famous last words....
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:43 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cordes
Once you get them loose the space is not that bad
Also doing a turbo swap from Mitsu to Garrett on my Daytona. Attempted to do it without taking off the head....then I started swearing......Not enough room to get in a long enough wrench to loosen any of em...and have no torch to help me.....Time to pull the head....

Atleast It makes a nice opportunity to install a 180 degree thermostat.
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:49 PM   #13
 
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Atleast It makes a nice opportunity to install a 180 degree thermostat.
pulling the head makes that easier than usual?
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:49 AM   #14
 
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Im trying to make myself feel like pulling the head is doing me good....I have to take off the rad hose to pull the head...so I guess it saves me a few seconds LOL.
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:32 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lebaronguy2001



famous last words....
If the torch does not get them loose, then you have bigger problems than a turbo swap.
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