Project Dart: HX35 right for me?

[MoparFreak]

Hey thanks.

Alright, back to the EFI setup. Will a stock 2bbl intake work for the Throttle body, or would I be better to go w/ a 4bble intake? The 2bbl is much cheaper and is a lot more common.
As far as ignition, I'm thinking MSD 6A-BTM, and Blaster 2 coil.

[MoparFreak]

Sorry, but back to the cast pistons... GN and Turbo Regals were all manufactured with cast pistons, our Turbo dodges came with cast pistons (right???), and people are running 15 psi easily on cast pistons on these cars. Why won't they work for me?

Michael

[xrattiracer]

cast pistons do work, they just go south much faster in bad situations than forged. so if you have a good ear for detonation, you can probably get just as much power out of the setup.

[Casper]

The one reason to seriously consider going with a fuel injection setup is that it will offer more precise control over the fuel mixture.

There are articles out there on installing the JY GM system on a /6. For me, though I would seriously consider checking out SDS or something similar. If you go with the MSD setup, you won't have to buy the spark control.

I realize you are trying to be as economical as possible with this project. However, sooner or later you will be smacked squarely over the head with the old axiom: "How fast can you afford to go?" Speed costs money. The one thing I've found over the years working on TD's is that another old axiom holds true: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Spending on the front end tends to cost alot less than spending on the back end.

[MoparFreak]

Okay, as far as having an ear for detonation... not sure if I do or not. Please correct me if I'm wrong but detonation is when the fuel mixture is ignited before the spark plug ignites it by being compressed too much. As compression forces molecules together creating friction/heat. So too much friction/heat by too much compression will ignite the mixture before the spark plug should. This is detonation correct? Is this the "pingin" that most people refer to? Sorry, had a blank moment here.

Michael

[Aries_Turbo]

pre-ignition is when the mixture ignites before the spark fires... caused by hot spots, heat in general, low octane fuel and sharp edges in the combustion chamber.

detonation is when the flame front travels too fast through the mixture after the spark ignities basically exploding. also caused by the things above.

detonation is audible (rattling) and pre-ignition is sometimes not heard but bust things just the same. thats why some are reccomending the forged slugs.

sounds like a SWEET project!!! :) Good luck

Brian

[MoparFreak]

Okay, thanks for clearing that up. Yeah, I know what detonation sounds like.

Now I know that the higher the octane rating, the slower the burn. Thus reducing the risk of detonation. But what does adding a denser air charge (water/alky injection) do to reduce the risk also? Thanks.

I'll deffinately start a new thread when I start the build. Probably won't actually start doing things until this fall/winter though.

Michael

[xrattiracer]

yes, higher octane helps the fuel to burn more slowly and evently. water injection mostly just cools the intake charge, which also helps reduce detonation since detonation can also be caused by high intake temps.

[MoparFreak]

Okay gotcha!

Michael

[Casper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by xrattiracer yes, higher octane helps the fuel to burn more slowly and evently. water injection mostly just cools the intake charge, which also helps reduce detonation since detonation can also be caused by high intake temps.

Also remember that H20 is not combustible. So, injecting it does help raise the effective octane rating.

[MoparFreak]

I understand that, but when you add a 50% water 50% Alky injection, won't the octane be raise a little? Or is it already too "watered down" to be combustable?

Bad news guys, due to lack of funds and other things, I will not be able to start the build until mid October when my check from my Orchard comes in. Just the way things go, but I've got all my boosted slant related threads (on this forum and others) bookmarked so when the time does come, I'll know exactly what I want, and what to do, and can hopefully have the car done or running by next summer. Thanks for everything, been a great help.

Michael

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlaskanTurbo#70 Hers a web site that a friend of mine used for his 225 slant 6. www.cliffordperformance.com (951) 303-2333 They are loacted in California. I myself own a 69' and 70' R/T charger plus now a 86' GLHS which I'm in the middle or repairing some items, but very nice otherall. As far as Torbos go, do any of you know mush about a *super 60* turbo? I read about won in a magazine on a GLHS, making about 210 H.P. with little other mods. Mark

LMAO, that would be my GLHS? Mopar Muscle mag jan of this year. That was a junk yard engine and 3 pistons, blew one up before I went down. The turbo is not something that made power, it is something that makes traction on my GLHS. I ported out the intake, head and exhaust manifold, then I used 3" exhaust and a MP 767 NA cam. The car flowed enough air around town and at boost it required +20 injectors or it pinged at 4 PSI. All porting was mild at the time but effective. I also have a 70 R/T SE Challenger and a 72 Rally Challenger sitting in the garage next to the 86 GLHS. I too have fallen from the tree but not far, and a GLHS is every bit a Mopar when you stand on it