use a N/A common block, 90 or later, but use all the accesories that go with it- the pan, front cover assembly, water pump, cam, crank, and intermediate shafts are different. so are the power steering , alternator, pulleys etc are different too. just get a complete engine and use all the stuff- will make life a lot easier and less confusing.
get a set TII rods!!! the N/A CB engines and TI engines use a lightweight rod- they are a bomb waiting to go off. the rods interchange so theres no problems there. you can also use Eagle H-beam rods for an SRT-4 neon, they pretty much drop in except the small end of the rod needs to be honed out to fit the larger 2.2 piston pin. but if you order custom forged pistons you can get them with the smaller SRT-4 pin and they drop in. you need to use SRT-4 rod bearing with them though. you can also get stock SRT-4 rods from the dealer- they're like 50 bucks each for a rod and piston assembly. ditch the pistons and sell em and you've got a set of rods stronger than TII rods for around 100 bucks.
if you have a forged non CB crank you can use it in a CB engine, but you have to turn the front seal surface on the crank down to size- the CB seal is smaller. you also need to use the non CB spockets with that crank, the snout is a different size on the non CB crank. forged crank is not necessary unless you're aiming for the stars. a cast crank will hold every bit of 350- 400 hp, so id just stay with that to keep things simple.
turbo CB and N/A common blocks are the same except for the oil return and coolant feed for the turbo like screamin shows in the pic. just have your machine shop drill it out and install the tube. the oil feed for the turbo comes from the distribution block on the front of the engine where the oil pressure switch is- it has a restrictor in it for the turbo oil feed- just unscrew it and screw it into the N/A block and youre good. all CB engines are crossdrilled after 89- the head gaskets last a lot longer.
do not use hyperreutectic pistons- they are only good on N/A motors. they can not withstand ANY detonation at all. cast pistons are fine to around 300 hp or so if you are tuned right. forged are best!
89 and later heads use a roller cam- less friction= more power, less heat in the valvetrain. the main differences between a turbo and N/A head are the valves and springs- turbo heads have stainless exhaust valves and stiffer springs. DO NOT use N/A valves in a turbo engine- they will last all of 3000 miles or so, they can not take the heat! an N/A cam is a mild upgrade over a turbo cam, little more lift and duration. for a fresh build i'd prefer to start with a N/A head because my experience has been that they have fewer cracks, arent warped as bad, and dont have the valve guides dropping nearly as much as i see in used turbo heads. get new valves , springs, 3 angle valve job and its time to rock and roll
i dont know if you've seen Gary Donovans website, he has a lot more info on there with detailed pics, part #'s etc all the differences between the CB , non CB engines etc- it should be required reading for anyone insterested in doing any performance work on these engines
Donovan's Dodge Garage
anything not covered there we can answer here, one of us can hook you up and send you on the right path to terrorising your local rice burners
TurboDodge.com 
