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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 08-16-2008, 07:49 PM   #1
Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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Take a look at the CHIP on the deck around #1 cylinder. Is this OK to use? It seems to line up perfectly with the combustion chamber crush ring on the headgasket. The block was previously oringed so the deck surface has had a considerable amount of material removed, should I use a head saver or anything the like? Do I have to worry about increased detonation or my TUNE?

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Old 08-16-2008, 07:59 PM   #2
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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Unless it was on a totally stock low-boost set-up, I myself wouldn't use it.
But that's just My opinion.
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:04 PM   #3
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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LOL I wouldnt worry about it

but I guess if there is a copper shim gasket for our cars ? that would be worthwhile
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:50 PM   #4
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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check these threads ; maybe a cometic is the best way

head gasket replacement?

this wiki's description doesn't sound like you should use copper ("... are less forgiving to imperfections in the head and deck surfaces."

Head gasket - Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:59 AM   #5
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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The Felpro headsaver gasket is copper, .020 over, ran it for 2 years at 20 psi boost, never failed. Spray it good with Permatex copper spray, let it get tacky, and torque it on.
By the way though, I use ARP head studs...
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:44 AM   #6
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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its hard to tell from the pic, but does the chip extend to the cylinder bore ?

in that case, you may be screwed, cuz I'm guessing that will be a point where hot combustion gases will quickly eat away at the fire ring of the HG

if thats the case, I think you should have the block milled (again - is there a max amount of removal allowed ?)

or a good welder could put a tack there, filling the divot, and you could file it flat with a flat file

if 'Ouchie' doesnt extend to cylinder bore I would run it with a cometic and studs - both of which are a good investment and reusable
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:09 AM   #7
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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Thanks for all of the responses. However, after paying $1,700 and waiting 5 weeks for this shortblock, would you be comfortable with "it should be OK to use"? What do you guys think? I've already spent my money on MP headbolts and a MP headgasket.

The chip, aka ouchie, is about .048" from the edge of the bore. Right smack in the middle of the fire ring. The chip looks to be from the bit that machined the oring grooves.

The pistons extend past the block's deck by .021" so will I have to worry about cam timing and use an adjustable cam gear? Obviously there was alot of material removed to eliminate the oring grooves.
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:59 AM   #8
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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AFAIK, the combustion chamber will not allow for the piston to go into it. What is the gasket thickness? that may be the saving grace.
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Old 08-17-2008, 11:27 AM   #9
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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I measured the thickness of a used (crushed) MP headgasket, and it measures approximately .056 to.060"
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Old 08-17-2008, 12:44 PM   #10
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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I would toss that block in the trash and get anther one, it only costs a couple hundred to get another one prepped to put all your parts into
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Old 08-25-2008, 03:53 PM   #11
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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Why is it not o-ringed anymore? What was the problem?
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:20 PM   #12
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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I had problem with o-rings and filled the grooves with jb weld. 27# and 60 shot of nitrous for a year and a half and no problems with my hack.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:40 PM   #13
Re: Previously O-ringed Block W/Pics  
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What was the problem with the o-rings? But if its holding up to that much boost and spray I would say its fine.
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