engine break in period

[Aries_Turbo]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris Faulk Permatex Ultra Black...never find better. There's an RTV silicon that's better...but it's a Ford part, and I doubt you guys will even consider it.

chris,

is ultra black kinda dull looking, not shiney liek the older rtv's? if its "dull" and kinda thick and doesnt have the vinegar smell that older rtv's have then its similar to "the right stuff"

also, on another note...has anyone looked into that mototune page.... any comments on his break-in procedure?

Brian

[Chris Faulk]

Quote:

Originally posted by Aries_Turbo chris, is ultra black kinda dull looking, not shiney liek the older rtv's? if its "dull" and kinda thick and doesnt have the vinegar smell that older rtv's have then its similar to "the right stuff" also, on another note...has anyone looked into that mototune page.... any comments on his break-in procedure? Brian

Brian,

The Ultra black is a dull dark grey color...looks almost black. You do NOT want that junk on your hands!!

I checked out that page...and the guy is focused mainly on brand new technologies and engines. I would stick to the old tried and true methods we've discussed here already.

"New engines from the factory are built to closer/tighter tolerances today"....well I believe that. But certainly not closer/tighter than when I have something done at a machine shop which is what most of will be doing.

[Aries_Turbo]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris Faulk Brian, The Ultra black is a dull dark grey color...looks almost black. You do NOT want that junk on your hands!! I checked out that page...and the guy is focused mainly on brand new technologies and engines. I would stick to the old tried and true methods we've discussed here already. "New engines from the factory are built to closer/tighter tolerances today"....well I believe that. But certainly not closer/tighter than when I have something done at a machine shop which is what most of will be doing.

so you suggest not doing the methods on his site even though my engine was machined to exacting standards? (local shop.....real good)

also yeah ultra black seems to be pretty similar to "the right stuff" though the right stuff is a little thicker. heck they are made by the same company. yeah on your hands is not the place for that rtv.....i go into work all the time with black on my hands cause i cant get it off.

Brian

[cptn60]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris Faulk Permatex Ultra Black...never find better. There's an RTV silicon that's better...but it's a Ford part, and I doubt you guys will even consider it.

Are you talking about the "Silicon gasket & sealant" p/n f7az-19554-ea. High quality stuff, Chris, you must be a leakfree cat!

[Chris Faulk]

Quote:

Originally posted by cptn60 Are you talking about the "Silicon gasket & sealant" p/n f7az-19554-ea. High quality stuff, Chris, you must be a leakfree cat!

On the tube...

Permatex Ultra Black, hi-temp RTV silicone gasket maker part #598B.

No leaks on this engine in almost 4 years now. hehe

[Chris Faulk]

I'd just stick to what was known to be good/proper/issueless or whatever term you'd like to use.

I've built a few turbo engines and broken them in all the same way. I first heat cycle the engine a few times with the car on jack-stands for maybe 30minutes or so while looking for leaks. You get 2 birds with 1 stone here. Vary the RPM's up/down while you poke around for leaks. I then let the car cool down a bit...change the oil/filter, and then go break it in. This is any engine I build with fresh oil/filter in it. I then run low-boost (10psi or less) on the car for about 500 miles with PERIODIC WOT runs. Even your OE manual will say that. While driving around the first few hundred miles make it a point to *not* make any long-distance trips where the RPM will remain constant. In other words...give the rings a healthy work-out.

After that...you're ready to light up the boost.

Our 10.50's '64 Chevelle was built to exact tolerances as well...and we did nearly the same thing except for the 500 miles. We ran it on jack-stands for about 30minutes while checking everything, then changed the oil/filter and loaded the car on the trailer. The break-in period was the first burn-out the next day at the track. No damage was ever found upon the few tear-downs we performed.

[GovtContact]

Quote:

Originally posted by Aries_Turbo [B....i go into work all the time with black on my hands cause i cant get it off. Brian [/b]

There is one sure way of getting it off, we use it at work to seperate our optics that are mounted with RTV. Get some Glacial Acidic Acid or just Acidic Acid (You thought vinigar smelt strong), squirt some on, let is sit a few minutes and it wipes right off.

I dont really recommend it for hands though...

[Chris Faulk]

Quote:

Originally posted by GovtContact There is one sure way of getting it off, we use it at work to seperate our optics that are mounted with RTV. Get some Glacial Acidic Acid or just Acidic Acid (You thought vinigar smelt strong), squirt some on, let is sit a few minutes and it wipes right off. I dont really recommend it for hands though...

Any of the *gritty* shop-soaps will do a good job of getting it mostly off of your hands.

I'm not putting any kind of acid on my hands....

[Mr P-body]

I work at a race shop and see alot of technology I read his page and some of it makes sense. For instance we will start a 1300 and some change hp motor and heat it up to operating temp run it up and down for about 4 to 5 times within 500 rpm's Then let it rip all the way to 9,800 rpms depending on how much fuel it pulls you will know if the motor sealed up or not. One more senerio I just popped out a cracked piston in my 2.5L I rehoned the block reassembled the motor I let it run to operating temp check for leaks and set the timing to 15deg I then checked my vac guage it read about 18 I then drove to the gas station and put 2 good graduate 14psi 2nd gear wot pulls on it. It now reads 22 at idle. somthing to think about.

Mike!

[ToiboTonaZee]

Okay what would YOU concider to be the BEST breakin procedure for my motor. Its freshly rebuild but i have to hone the cylinders and stick in a fresh set of rings. From the get-go, give me a quick rundown of how to break in a "Street Motor" (il be beating on it in the near future if all goes well-20psi)

[DakotaKid]

Do not take this as gospel.
But when I recently rebuilt my engine, I used straight 30 weight oil for the break-in, I started it and let it idle for 1 hour. Then I drained the oil, changed the filter and installed 5W30 Mobil One. Then I drove 850 miles to the Mopar Nats and beat the crap out of it. I had a total of 14 runs over the 3 days and never had a problem.

[Mr P-body]

Hey,
I talked it over with some of people at my work today and they agree that some of the best motors they have had seal up have been when they increase cylinder pressure by puting a good gradual strong run on the motor too seat the rings well. I would probably do what you feel most comfortable with after you here all the input of this thread.,But I would keep in mind my boss did win 3 out of the last 6 NHRA prostock championships.So the source is pretty good. Just my 2 cents I hope it helps you!!!

[BuRn__]

basically, just break in the car the way u drive it. if its a track-car, break it in like its going to be driven. if its a street car thats a commuter, take it easy. the reason ud take it easy is due to the fact that it will use less oil in its lifetime cuz it wsant broken in like a track car. (got my info from Chris at TU)