engine break in period

Well, I got hold of a reman engine for the price of $1,777.25 out the door and it comes in Tuesday. Now my question is, what kind of oil and oil filter do I use in it? How log until I change to Mobile 1? How often to I change the oil? I appricate any help on this subject because I dont really wanna kill this new engine. I already have my boost controller set to 4 PSI just to be safe with overboost and I dont plan on whipping on the engine any time soon. So if anyone can and would please help me out I'd really appricate it.

-Paul

[Aries_Turbo]

Quote:

Originally posted by DaytonaES Turbo Well, I got hold of a reman engine for the price of $1,777.25 out the door and it comes in Tuesday. Now my question is, what kind of oil and oil filter do I use in it? How log until I change to Mobile 1? How often to I change the oil? I appricate any help on this subject because I dont really wanna kill this new engine. I already have my boost controller set to 4 PSI just to be safe with overboost and I dont plan on whipping on the engine any time soon. So if anyone can and would please help me out I'd really appricate it. -Paul

did you already order the motor????? cause 1700$ is a pretty sizable chunk for a motor.....for 1700$ i know a machine shop that could build you a nice forged pistoned beast thatll take abuse... just a thought.

Brian

[csxt#10]

**** you could build a 16c dohc swap for that price.were did you get it from is everything nerw

[BuRn__]

1700 isnt too bad. my remanned longblock was around 1400
1200 for FWD block
200 for remanned head

Well, I'm pickin the motor up tomorrow, its the cheapest that I could get one that was a reman.

-Paul

[Chris Faulk]

Run the car for a few heat cycles on jack stands while you check for leaks and such. Let the fan cycle a few times...maybe 30 minutes or so. You can use any good *regular* oil for the break-in. Valvoline or Castrol is good oil.

After the 30 minutes of *checking*, change the oil and drive it low-boost for about 500 miles. During this 500 miles don't make any long highway trips where you keep the RPM at the same level. You want to run the RPM's up and down the scale with a few WOT runs. Same goes for the initial 30 minutes about the RPM's. Don't keep it steady the whole time...rev it up and down slowly.

After 500 miles or so, you can switch to synthetic and start boosting. I've never had a problem with this method.

[glhsken]

Quote:

Originally posted by Aries_Turbo did you already order the motor????? cause 1700$ is a pretty sizable chunk for a motor.....for 1700$ i know a machine shop that could build you a nice forged pistoned beast thatll take abuse... just a thought. Brian

100000% agreed... Way steep. take a block get some forged slugs and have one built for $13-1600. Much better alternative.

Thanks for the help Chris. Yes it is a bit steep but everyone else is a lot higher.

Also the engine comes with a 3 year/50,000 mile warranty

[Aries_Turbo]

but did you buy the motor yet??????

Brian

yea i already got it

[ToiboTonaZee]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[csxt#10]

Quote:

Originally posted by ToiboTonaZee http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

here ya go

[Aries_Turbo]

Quote:

Originally posted by ToiboTonaZee NOTE: IF YOU HAVE ANY PERMATEX BLUE, THROW IT IN THE F***ING GARBAGE. I NOW HAVE TO PULL MY ENGINE BECAUSE OF IT UTRA BLUE IS THE STUFF YOU WANT.

naah permatex "the right stuff" is what you want....think much thicker dark grey ultra blue style rtv. comes in caulk gun tubes with a gun. ive seen it here and there but it is at carquest if you know of those. also haydens has it too.

Brian

[Chris Faulk]

Permatex Ultra Black...never find better.

There's an RTV silicon that's better...but it's a Ford part, and I doubt you guys will even consider it.