removing balance shaft

[Shaggy]

Quote:

Originally posted by artur_p i just welded mine up. i havent heard of anyone doing that, any reason why?

Possibility that it the weld could crack and leak??? Just a thought...

[T90]

Not if you do it right, post heat and pean on cast will never crack on such a small spot weld.

[csxt#10]

its also easier to put in pistons with it out.thats why i took mine off in the first place

[--No_turbo]

Quote:

Originally posted by csxt#10 now thats a good question

Yes but. If the bolts the hold the gear on come loose there will rub on the front seal cover witch leads to a HUGE oil leak !!

[csxt#10]

Quote:

Originally posted by --No_turbo Yes but. If the bolts the hold the gear on come loose there will rub on the front seal cover witch leads to a HUGE oil leak !!

ok but the gear comes of easy

[Radiant_Red]

5/16ths (( use a 5/16 x 1.00Lg screw at most )) in standard size for tapped hole... its on a big angle so be carefull.. weighs about 16 lbs when all is out.. anyone needing good taps to do the job i can send them the tap and a screw for 1$ + shipping.. ull have to buy the tap handle..

[cawcislo]

I don't believe you have to cut the head off the bolt off. I drilled, tapped and bolted a bolt into my 2.5 and never had any issues. The head of the bolt shouldn't cause any issues unless you use a really big head on the bolt.

Quote:

Originally posted by cawcislo I don't believe you have to cut the head off the bolt off. I drilled, tapped and bolted a bolt into my 2.5 and never had any issues. The head of the bolt shouldn't cause any issues unless you use a really big head on the bolt.

What size bolt did you use? What size head?

[Aries_Turbo]

I used a 5/16 drillbit and tap set from valu home centers here in western ny. i didnt even use a tap handle (pliers lol) and it worked just fine. i used a matching thread 5/16 allen head bolt and some permatex gasket maker (not rtv) and tightened it till the head butted against the block real tight (sure it was an angle but between that and the permatex it aint goin nowhere. lol clears the oilpan too.

as far as welding.... i welded an ear back on an 89 2.5l CB right where the tranny locating dowel is and its perfectly fine. i preheated and postheate the metal and used a reverse polarity dc stick welder with a high nickel cast iron rod. its plenty strong. welding cast is a slight hassle but its not that bad....i ziptied my torch in place so i didnt have to hold it. hehehehe.

Brian

[iTurbo]

I used a 7M tap and T handle tap wrench. I then got a 7x25 mm bolt and applied a two part epoxy (PC-11) to the threads and threaded it into the hole. I left the hex head on. I've done this on two 2.5L T1 engines and haven't had a problem, even after thousands of miles of pizza delivery.

Just my 2¢

[MarshallOne]

Quote:

Originally posted by artur_p i just welded mine up. i havent heard of anyone doing that, any reason why?

Most people don't have access to the special high nickel welding rod you need. From what I understand that welding rod is expensive and/or hard to find.

[Subliminal]

So what was the outcome here? Can you just leave the hole open and use more oil? What's the difference?

damon

[Chris Faulk]

Quote:

Originally posted by Subliminal So what was the outcome here? Can you just leave the hole open and use more oil? What's the difference? damon

You can NOT leave the hole open...you will lose oil pressure.

The hole must be plugged, and you MIGHT require using up to 7-8 quarts of oil instead of about 4.

[Subliminal]

Could you elaborate on that a bit for me? I might need to use more?

Thanks


damon

[iTurbo]

The balance shaft assembly displaces quite a bit of space in the oil pan, which makes the oil level rise up to where the dipstick is marked when full. When you remove the assembly, it takes a lot more oil to get the oil up the the same place on the dipstick.

On both my 2.5 T1 engines (Shadow and Omni), I have removed the balance shafts. They require about 6.5 to 7 quarts to fill it to the dipstick's full mark.