cracked block between frost plugs?

[rampageRT]

on my new lancer, the block cracked between 2 frost plug??!
anywone have seen this before and know why the block do this?

any way to fix it in place? JBweld?

picture

thanks

[Shel-Game]

Quote:

Originally posted by rampageRT on my new lancer, the block cracked between 2 frost plug??! anywone have seen this before and know why the block do this? any way to fix it in place? JBweld? picture thanks

Just from the pic, I can tell that neither of those freeze plugs would budge. One is glued in place, the other is the rubber-plug/bolt type. If the water in the block froze, you'd probably get a crack like that. The purpose of the freeze plugs is to push out when the water inside freezes (water expands when it freezes, and can create a whole lot of pressure). If those plugs can't move, you break the block.

I've seen blocks welded before, but I don't know how good a welded block is. You'd probably want to have it checked for straightness after welding. And, it might need to be re-machined if it moves too much.

[Tim_K]

Cast iron is tough to weld correctly. Time to scrap the block and get another one.

My Daytona came with that exact same problem. Previous owner had tossed in a new plug. I got 10 miles out of the engine before it expanded enough to let the new plug pop right out too. That's why I have a 2.5 in the car now. Figured if I had to replace the block, I'd get the best one I could. Not much you can do to fix it unless you plan to sell it right away. If you just plan to sell it, dump in some radiator stop leak stuff (i'd try the stuff with the copper flakes in a clear liquid) into the radiator. And hope for the best. Otherwise, yeah, you just need a new block, luckily they're as plentiful as 350's in the junkyard.

[Reeves]

Got the same thing in my OMNI. Only it's the NEXT two plugs (the one behind the starter, and the middle one). It kept blowing out freeze plugs like crazy. I removed the freeze plugs, ground a big V-groove into the crack. Then I drilled dimples on both sides of the crack with a small drill bit. I made many, many of these dimples. Then mix ya up some JB Weld and slap it to it. The V-groove and dimples will help hold the JB Weld. Then install the adjustable rubber type freeze plugs. This worked for me so far. Although I am building a spare engine now for when this one decides to let go!

The block can be welded. There is a guy in the Seattle area who specializes in welding cast iron, specifically automotive stuff. His work is unbelievable. However, after welding the block has to be remachined. I've had him fix many things and have never been disappointed. The whole block is heated and then welded with a cast iron rod. This prevents localized heating and cracking.

Yeah, but in the Seattle area these blocks are a dime a dozen. And you gotta think, if it cracked once, maybe it was a bad batch of iron. Not to mention, why spend so much on a block that could be replaced for so little. Guess that's my main point. When my block turned out to be cracked between the rear freeze plugs, I took it as a sign from god that I was meant to run a common block. Ditched that weak 88 block and got me a complete minivan engine from the junkyard for $200. Runs like a champ.

[lametec]

The cracking between the freeze plugs is "fairly common", and can happen on both early and common blocks. It's a manufacturing defect.

ALWAYS check real close for cracks between the freeze plugs when buying a block/motor.